Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Datum: WGS84 [ Help ] |
Latitude: 21° 20.863' N |
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DistanceDon't know WalkShort walk (5-15 mn) Easy to find?Hard to find Public access?Private access Special access4x4 |
Wave qualityRegional Classic
ExperiencePros or kamikaze only...
FrequencyRarely break (5day/year)
TypeReef-coral
DirectionRight and left
BottomReef (coral,sharp rocks etc..) with sand
PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful, Fun
Normal lengthLong (150 to 300 m)
Good day lengthVery Long (300 to 500 m)
Good swell directionWest, SouthWest, South
Good wind directionEast, NorthEast
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+
Best tide positionHigh tide only
Best tide movementRising and falling tides
Week crowdFew surfers
Week-end crowdDon't know
- Urchins
- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Private beach
- Localism
- Sharks
you may park by the pavillion at your own risk but locals drive all the way to cliffs edge again at your own risk road access is closed
Atmosphere
one of the last jewels on the leeward side this place demands respect localism is strictly in effect haole's be warned
General
this spot is third dip (rights) in reverse (left)
Author: deaconroypff09 Contributors (2)
By Anonymous , 26-01-2012
Hidden - This beach park is now closed and access to this spot is treacherous at best. It was closed under the guise that it was a liability risk because erosion was causing the cliff side to fall into the ocean. That was over twenty years ago and although natural erosion has occured it has only been minimal. The real reason was money. The Ko Olina resort area needed to run pipes through the park which made the area expendable. This area sits on coral that is probably hundreds of yrs old. Construction cut through that coral to lay pipes. Coral is one continuous entity, in essence, one big rock. Cutting that coral is what caused the "erosion". The state than condemned this area under the platform of "eminent domain". Thus, the needs of the many (big bucks) out way the needs of the few (local people). Just thought I'd share a little history.
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By Anonymous , 26-01-2012
Fun - This is one of the most beautiful waves I have ever surfed. Surfed it alone many times until someone burned down the trees that used to hide it. Certain particulars (swell direction, tide, winds)govern this area and those in the know reap the rewards. The local bruddahs are cool, just don't be a dick and expect to paddle out here and catch everything. Be respectful and you'll have a great session.