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Anonymous surfer in south-west of France. Photo by C. Naslain, 2016.
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Not surfable - This wave never breaks, only during strong swells, preferably hurricane swells. This beach has no waves, it's totally flat. It's a scuba and snorkeling location. The problem with this break is that is located at the lagoon entrance. You can see it from the boat to your right when you are arriving the spot. It has virtualy no bottom because the coral reef goes down in a vertical wall right to the bottom of the ocean just after the corner, entering the lagoon. When you are snorkelign you can see the wall vanishing in the depth till you can't see the bottom anymore, just deep blue. And the shallow part of the reef just before the entrance corner is too way shallow, so shallow that the top spikes of the coral are actually out of the water and birds put nests there.
Of course when a huge swell makes it here the waves break when they hit the shallow reef, but there's no way to surf over it, and if you'd make it safe and pass the reef and make it to the corner where the lefty starts, the wave vanishes cuz the bottom goes away. No bottom. From 0 mts depth to 50 mts in no second. So the ride is over. That's why none has surfed it yet. Of course it looks impressive when you see those huge waves hitting the reef, but it's not surfable. Plus boats can't make it there when the swells are pumping. You'd have to stay in a tent for a couple of days before the swell hits, so you are already there when it starts pumping. And if something happens to you, there's no help. You are alone. No roads or ways to make it to a hospital fast.
Better spots are just 300mts before la cienaga, like Maya beach, to the left. Long beach with coral reefs and super hollow waves.
Just enjoy the corals and do some snorkeling or scuba ;)
no title - great comment .....
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