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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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kooks galore - To the dooshbag longboarder that I ran over when taking off on a left yesterday, your inconsiderate nature slightly dinged my board that has about 4 sessions on it. I know that you have this POS thing that you've surfed for 20 years and think that you could probably sell it for 1K when you're done with it, but in case you haven't noticed this isn't a beachbreak. If you decide to ever paddle back out, how about not paddling directly into the pocket of a set when 2 guys are trying to split it? If you haven't surfed here, cool try it if it's not crowded. This place like many others should only be surfed by people who have good knowledge of the break especially on big days.
Get lucky here - While the crowd is crazy 4ft and up, You can score an amazing wave here, left or right. Sit between the groms on the inside and the vets sitting too far outside typically. You know you're in the right spot when everyone is paddling at you from all directions haha. Sometimes looking for the left will put you deep into position for the right and you'll have every right to make the drop. Even if you get dropped in on, wait 5 sec and they'll make 1 cut and out. When it's huge and the crowd is a parking lot, move north to Boneyards, the main peak in front of the historic house atop the hill. At 5ft and up it's still pretty empty and can hollow out very well. W, NW will make a super long right hand wall. S, SW will make a preferred left hander that can get super hollow. Swami's is crowded for a reason, it holds the largest range of swell in north county for those of you that want a channel to get back out.
By Surf Dawg
Swami's - One of the best waves in California. It will hold as big as it gets with perfection. I've looked at it for years, and surfed it once.
Unfortunately it is VERY VERY crowded.
- Some dude posted that his three best sessions at swaims were; a session in the dark, a session in complete fog, and another session were he only surfed the short lefts. I'm sure he got some good waves, but what a joke. This is the most crowded spot in So. Cal next to lower trestles or Malibu. You pretty much have to surf at night or in the fog to get uncontested waves here. At swaims you will find uncordinated women, beginers, old retired wave-hogging longboarders, kooks frothing groms, pros, guys (and some girls) who rip, and everything in between. Last time I surfed swaims I saw a guy riding a fish listening to a waterproof I-Pod. That's just gay, plus how is he going to hear the other kooks hout him off a wave. Crowds have destroyed this spot. I'll se you somewhere else.
By chanra lei
AWESOME - what a gift this place is....so cool to sit and look for green flashes in the sunset....grab a cup o'joe and watch the surfers do their thang. Thank GOD for California!!!
Swarmi's - swarmies
Swamis poster - This is a pretty cool view of swamis: http://www.cafepress.com/SwamisSurf
Re: Don't bring a board under 8' - Or alternatively, everyone agree to bring a board under 8'... then we can all challenge ourselves, improve our level or surfing and fitness, and revel in the beauty of vertical surfing in the pocket... hmmm...
Swami's on a good day 2007 - http://youtube.com/watch?v=uY8E_2EuSSE
unchallenged? - Dude you must have been surfing swamis at 3 ft or something because as soon as that wave gets some size theres at least 7 people all paddling for the same peak and at least 3 all take off in the same direction.
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