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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By NOT A HIPPY, JUST A SURFER
Well bird....... - It can't be defined very well..........I am 27 and have been surfing since I was in Junior School. Surfing for me waqs then about paddling out at my local break with the older guys who sort of took me under their wing. Hearing the shouts of "Go Boyo" and getting a massive wave, being able to get out back when none of my mates could. Living it everyday and being stoked about my next wave. Asking one of the guys how big my last wave was, they would say something like 10ft, just to get me stoked..........Surfing for me has been a part of life, watching more people come along, going from grom to an older guy. Getting independence, driving and finding new places to surf (some unsurfed) and generally sharing the stoke with people like me. Watching surfing develop as a whole and seeing people come and go, even though we all originally did it because it was cool and our mates did it, some stopped and picked up other "Surfings" like Money, Climbing a Pyramid (corporations), Having other interests. You ultimately go one way or another, Surfing is something which either becomes a total religion or something which you will do less and less until your board is thrown away or sold. Magazines and places like Newquay pander to those who are doing it for the wrong reasons. Perhaps some may become true surf masters. It's not about how great you are in the water, it's about how much you love it. Longboarders, sponges, goatboaters, kids doing aerials, we are all related to each other by one thing. Love of surfing. Perhaps it is quite a rare thing but sometimes you may meet people getting changed or in the water who are completely on your wavelength, stoked, silly and just completely in love with the sea, waves and the whole phenomena. I am very well qualified and could earn a fortune in London. Some people try to do both. Ultimately, I have to be by the coast so that I can check the surf, watch the charts, see my friends and others doing the same. It's what makes surfers different from any other sportsmen. Dedication and stoke which I believe is unique to the sport. If you criticise the last line, I suspect you don't understand me.......A good surf is better than anything. You can have a good surf in onshore mush or perfect tubes, rain or cold. It's not who is the best or has the best, it is classless and uniting.
way of life - i am 16 years old from cornwall. the answer to your question is yes, i would miss almost anything if the surf is absolutly pumpin. there is nothing better than pullin into a heavy section that you think that you prob wont make, and then you pop out. its the best feeling in the world just being deep inside a cave of water that is spinning around you and you can hear all of the air wistling as its getting sucked out and then boom!! you get spat out of the wave and onto the shoulder. its just a natural feeling that no money can buy. sorry if i dragged on a bit but the answer to your question is yes. any super keen surfer would prob miss almost anything for a really good surf.
surfing: a way of life - one of the most pure things to experience in this life is to ride a wave. the more pure you are as a person (the least amounts of evils in you: envy, hatred, greed, etc), the more connection you can make to the higher energy source. simple. once someone has reached this point, a job, a blow job, etc pails in comparison. surfing is my life. what drives you? sex, money, success in society? where do is get you? peace to all, T
surfing: way of life - This question is for all you surfers out there! Is surfing a way of life for you? would you miss anything to catch the surf? I', doing a project for school on the way of life of surfers! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
By would like some help please!
surfing in greece - has anyone surfed in greece, or in crete specifically? has anyone done the surfari in crete? I need to know cause i am on my way soon!
dan's book - Hasn't completed it yet. is getting there though.
By Jimmy Smith
Has that bloke published his book yet? - Well folks, I have been hearing a lot of words on the grapevine about a TOTAL surfguide to the SW. Mile by mile covering anything which breaks. Does anyone know where I can get one. I heard it had allready been released. I have heard from several people it is the lexicon of secret spots and unknown reefs..............
The usual message of help - Hey all. I get to London quite a bit and am a very keen surfer from Australia. looking to hunt a few waves when next over there. Got any rec's for accessing surf from london? Anyone keen on taking me for a surf? What wetsuit for what time of year.....? Any info a bonus... Thanks CC
Typical Brit! - Thats so lame. Dude if yuo were so soul, you wouldn't have been here anyway ;-). So sure, go find your free lunch someplace else - maybe spend your free time looking up how much hosting web sites cost (factor in the size of this one...) no one is getting rich on this baby.
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