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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Le DJE
Session septembre 2000 - Salut,
Fin aout à début septembre 2000,une grosse houle 12 feet 4 m (6 m de face)- le premier bowl(80m) fini par un coude la vague est épaisse et grise, mais belle,légèrement crantée,mais déroule bien,ne pas tomber car présence de rocher au début du deuxième bowl(100m) qui lui est moins tendu.Mieux vaut partir à l'inside pour être dans le rythme de la vague.Plus c'est gros plus il y a un courant de dingue pour atteindre la fin du deuxième bowl,après il n'y en a plus du tout(20 minutes mini de la beach). Planche péruvienne recommandée dans le gros(Whilar wayo).Maxi 7 vagues par session de 2h car la vague est longue une dizaine de bowl.Attention s'arreter à mi-vague car sinon trop de rame pour revenir et sortie dans champs d'oursin costauds. Sinon le vent est toujours le même cross offshore de sud-est.Sauf le premier bowl qui est calientissime le reste c'est du beurre quand c'est gros, avec beaucoup de changement de rythme d'un bowl a l'autre.Vague de légende qui prend la houle bien mieux qu'ailleurs aux alentours (chicama - puemape)- 1 gros swell c'est 8 jours dont 5 à plus de 3 m 10 feet. Personne à l'eau, locaux sympas 3 maxi - Merci à Juan-Manuel D de m'avoir fait découvrir cette vague en 1996 - Incredible Halucinante - Pour Gros swell bonne condition recommandée + creme anti-inflamatoire.
urchins - I surfed this wave in 2002 stayed there about 3 weeks its a nice wave its a bit sad to hear about the boats in the line they stink but i can understand it sometimes when its big you need to paddle constantly just to stay still one problem is getting out the discription of this wave says were booties but the problem is it goes to shallow on the inside to paddle when about 70m off the beach so you have to walk in over the urchins which got strait through booties even if you tread lightly so my only solution (after getting loads of urchins in my feet) was to paddle out with one sandal stuffed down the front off my wetsuit and one down after a session or after a really long one I just took them out of my suit and put them on and walked in no trouble.Look out for the big rock on take off on smaller days its all right once you realise you can take off deeper than it
Can't wait to get back. - Stayed at Hotel El Faro for a week in December. Had a really great time. Pacasmayo is a really cool town, the food is mind blowing, and cheap. I felt safe the whole time, and people were super cool. Waves were chest to head high the whole week. The first day we had the zodiac bozos going, but they were not there the rest of the week. Only crowd was 4 other guys, but there was more than plenty of waves to go around, and that was only one day. Rest of the week was just me and my friends. Only bummer the whole trip was LAN airlines. They will not let you bring boards over 8 feet. I had to rent an old water logged longboard. Still was a great trip, and will be trying to get back ASAP.
- Unfortunately if there is a market for the Zodiac there will be a business
Don't blame the owners who are trying to make a living for their family
Blame the rich kooks who think they are killing it
In the long run a lot of people will be turned off the place and would rather go elsewhere
No money for Pacasmayo
I am against the Zodiac - I can´t believe there is a zodiac is this spot now. It is totally against the surfing spirit. I've stayed at Los Faroles twice and I loved the place. C'amon guys, lets paddle a little bit. It will make your arms of a real man, not a zodiac pussy. The noise and smeel of fuel in the spot destroys the place. I am reaaly considering staying in a different place when I go there.
Re: Cashing In - I remember Carlos asking me for $ to buy the zodiac, and go partners with him....I understand how it must suck if you are paddling, and you're inhaling fuel fumes from the zodiac, but Carlos has a family and has lived there his entire life....I'd probably cash in too...he's got mouths to feed.
Los Faroles cashing in!!!!!!! - Imagine this, a once uncrowded point that was always a hard paddle, but well worth it for fit, dedicated punters. Now picture it, the year is 2009 and some tool has introduced a zodiac to the lineup. Imagine how happy you would be to have the typical group of hopeless, fluro board riding brazillian turkeys being constantly dropped out the back as you paddle back out to the takeoff. Yep, times have changed at Pacas! The brazo kooks pay through the nose to get picked up and dropped out the back. The owner of Los Faroles intruduced the zodiac and even has a photographer positioned on the point, shooting the gumbies as they struggle to stand up and poo man their way around to the zodiac pick up point. Don't bar Pacas, but definitely bar Los Faroles if you believe in respect and real surfing. The owner does not surf and is only cashing in on what we hold dear- surfing, travel and having a real dig.
- Yeah, the f&%$!ng zodiac. This wave is great and all, but I guarantee you will have difficulty NOT STRANGLING SOME OF THESE TWATS WHO JOCKEY YOU FOR POSITION ONCE THEY GET DROPPED OFF FURTHER UP THE POINT THAN YOU ARE AND YOU TRY TO PADDLE PAST THEM. Oh yeah, and one other thing: 2 crews from Lima showed up yesterday and started doing tow-ats EVERY SET, NON-STOP, going thru the line-up, almost clotheslining people, with one of these frickin´clowns having his ELEVEN YEAR OLD SON doing the driving.......
Yeah, this is no joke. As I said, great wave and all, but be forewarned.
pacasmayo - just got back from surfing pacasmayo,long wave but mediocre in shape. When it got overhead there was over 30 guys in the lineup including a crew from Chicama with their zodiac,,,hurray
Kiff Pacasmayo - Cold and grey and lekker, its not depressing its grate mate , one of the best waves in Peru and consistent. Take your big shoulders and strong guns. and dont be a maricon!!
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