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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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you had to pay?? - WTF, you don't need to pay to get in the place, and maybe it was a closeout because of the swell size, and you DO NOT NEED TO PAY that kind of toll in the dirt rode just, if they dont let you pass, there is a dirt road that pases just at the side, less than 1 meter, with out a toll, are you from peru?? because i go there almost every weekend and all summer and i dont have to pay nothing.
Hrm... - We went to check out this break yesterday. It's past the 11 sole toll, so from Lima it's 14 soles just to get there from tolls.
We found the entrance easy enough. The road is horrible. It's a good 5 minute drive and there are a ton of large rocks and bumps in the road (4x4 not required, but not a bad idea).
Anyhow, we start to finally get close to the beach and it's all closed off. You have to pay 5 soles just to get into the area. You'd think that they would have fixed the road if they are going to be charging money just to get in. We decided not to even bother as the road was so bad, we didn't want to come back even if it was nice and we didn't want to pay just to look and leave.
Great place - I surfed here in late May. I caught it 6-8 ft and fun as all hell. It was too crowded but what good break isn't when its on? The left jacks up at the end of the rock cliff and then just reels north for about 100 yards at least. You can take off in a few other spots down the line and avoid most of the crowd. When its big the waves break hard against the rocks and the splash washes all the bird shit into the water. There was like three inches thick of bird shit on those rocks and the water got loaded with it. I advise wearing ear plugs because that can't be good. All in all, great wave in a pretty deserted (May) place. This place is a little south of san bartolo (about 15 minutes or so). I swear that it felt colder here than in San Bartolo even though it wasn't that much further south. Peru gets tons of swell. I can't wait to go back.
Anonymous- what are you talking about? - When you say that we are stealing Iraq, are you serious? Do you really think think that we are going to make Iraq the 51st state? I highly question your statement's accuracy. I do agree that invading Iraq was a very stupid move and the benefits are small while the cost is large. However, to say that we are stealing Iraq is a huge stretch and completely inaccurate. And to say that we stole Puerto Rico and Guam, etc, who are you talking about? I was not involved in stealing Guam and Puerto Rico. That happened a long time ago and none of us were even alive. So don't use the word "we" and include me. I am from the United States and had nothing to do with that. Also, if we stole Puerto Rico, that would mean that we would never allow them to govern themselves. The Puerto Ricans are allowed to vote on whether they want to be a state, remain a territory, or go completely independent. They chose, on their own, to remain a territory. This does not meet the definition of "steal." They like their current situation. If not, they would change it because they have the power to do so. Be more accurate and fair in your language. You seem to jump on the anti-grinro band wagon and you don't even know why. I think you just want to be cool because it is fashionable to hate gringos. I agree with Jason Hiks.
By Jason Hicks
Hey Julio and Anonymous-inform yourself - Hey guys. I think you need to not be so sensitive. Also, why are you casting stones. Maybe this gringo needs to remind you of your own country's history. While you are blasting the U.S. for stealing land, I seem to remember that Peru was stolen land as well. If you weren;t so ignorant, you would remember that the Spanish came there before the U.S. was even formed and brought smallpox and war to that whole continent. Millions of natives were slaughtered by your founders and many more died of disease brought by you. The Spanish raped the whole country of its wealth and pushed the natives out, enslaved them in the mines, or killed them. Now your country has a great disparity of wealth becuase your forefathers stole about 98% of the land. Before the you judge gringos for their conquests, remember the conquistadors and look at the blood on your hands. Get away from the uninformed hostility toward gringos that just want to surf good waves and spend money in your country. Look at your own history before judging and condemning others for the same bad acts you engaged in. Sure U.S. government is not perfect, but is Peruvian government? Think and educate yourself before you blindly jump on the fashionable wave of anti-Americanism. You look foolish when you speak strongly about a subject of which you know nothing. Inform yourself.
puerto viejo - one word: MAGIC
classic - This is really a perfect wave. You have barrels or if you want there is a nice an big wall where you can outline whatever you want.surfing at 6 o clock in the morning, just with a couple of your friends, surrounded by dholphins, and feeling the magic....
Too Much Wind, no problem - When there is a lot of south wind in the beaches and they get crappy make a 70 kilometer trip from Lima to Puerto Viejo. This beach is long, probably hollow. On epic days it can get fast. Nice and memorable sessions with sometimes visit from the dolfins. Sometimes a bit of crowd but since its long, you can wait for the wave in at the point or near the shore and you will have fun anyways. (it doesn't work with big swells).
GRRRINGOU WEVOUN - WE CALL THIS SPOT, PUERTO CLASSIC, OLD PORT, PUERTO AÑEJO, PUERTO SOUL, SOUL PORT, PUERCO VIEJO(SMALL WAVES), MUERTO VIEJO(NO WAVES),
damn us stealers... - we are currently in the process of stealing iraq too! And we've stolen puerto rico, the US virgin islands... American Samoa, Guam... etc. so i guess i could say "yo sinto lo mismo..." but at the same time those are some damn nice places to surf.. well except iraq.
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