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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.

Surf spot atlas made by surfers for surfers
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 Secrets

USA, Hawaii, Oahu

Other places:

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 Access

DistanceTake a car

WalkInstant access (< 5min)

Easy to find?Hard to find

Public access?Public access

Special accessPaddle > 20mn or Boat

 Surf Spot Characteristics

Surf Spot Quality

Wave qualitySloppy

ExperienceExperienced surfers

FrequencySometimes break

Wave

TypeReef-coral

DirectionRight and left

BottomReef (coral, sharp rocks etc..)

PowerPowerful, Fun, Slab

Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)

Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)

Tide, Swell and Wind

Good swell directionNorth, East, NorthEast

Good wind directionNorthWest, SouthWest, South

Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+

Best tide positionLow tide only

Best tide movementRising and falling tides

More details

Week crowdCrowded

Week-end crowdUltra crowded

Webcam url 

Dangers

- Urchins
- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Private beach
- Localism
- Sharks
- Shark protected

 Additional Information

Super long paddle out--not even worth it. Only breaks good during a few times in the summer. Don't come here unless you know the reef, or else you WILL almost kill yourself.

English (Translate this text in English): Super long paddle out--not even worth it. Only breaks good during a few times in the summer. Don't come here unless you know the reef, or else you WILL almost kill yourself.

English (Translate this text in English): Super long paddle out--not even worth it. Only breaks good during a few times in the summer. Don't come here unless you know the reef, or else you WILL almost kill yourself.

English (Translate this text in English): Super long paddle out--not even worth it. Only breaks good during a few times in the summer. Don't come here unless you know the reef, or else you WILL almost kill yourself.

Atmosphere

Dry reef, especially on low tide. Close outs all over the place. Locals are protective over the spot--have no clue why. They should surf town instead.

English (Translate this text in English): Dry reef, especially on low tide. Close outs all over the place. Locals are protective over the spot--have no clue why. They should surf town instead.

English (Translate this text in English): Dry reef, especially on low tide. Close outs all over the place. Locals are protective over the spot--have no clue why. They should surf town instead.

English (Translate this text in English): Dry reef, especially on low tide. Close outs all over the place. Locals are protective over the spot--have no clue why. They should surf town instead.

General

You should probably go to town if you want more safe waves and more consistent surf and not crazy dry reef and long paddle outs.

English (Translate this text in English): You should probably go to town if you want more safe waves and more consistent surf and not crazy dry reef and long paddle outs.

English (Translate this text in English): You should probably go to town if you want more safe waves and more consistent surf and not crazy dry reef and long paddle outs.

English (Translate this text in English): You should probably go to town if you want more safe waves and more consistent surf and not crazy dry reef and long paddle outs.

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 Comments

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By Anonymous , 28-07-2009

Same spot? - Not sure if we surfed secrets but surfing at kai is awesome because there's no crowds! other then locals that have been more then willing to share there waves.

By Anonymous , 04-11-2008

Toes - If your goofy foot, then check out toes reef because the left is the best. Just go to kawaikui beack park which is across the street from hawaii loa ridge entrance. Be respectful to the locals and malama o ke kai.

By Anonymous , 28-07-2008

Talofa? - Isn't 'Talofa' a Samoan word? Can a Samoan be a true local in Hawaii? Are you a true local at Secrets? Are you one of the very few Hawaiians in Hawaii who are 100% Hawaiian? Living in Aina Haina? Eh, Talofa! Whoever you are, you is one stupid bugga to think the ocean belong to you and you millionaire ohana @ Aina Hana. Am I rhyming yet? Then hear this: Talofa one big joka, his mouth go yaka yaka and he drive a jacalaka, wants one priveledge in da ocean, but he just one midget Samoan!

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