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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Nick Manks
Why do it - I'm from Avoca right, I have certain expectations for beaches, no aqua-turds! I came over less than a month ago to see some amazing waves, might I add, I caught the biggest set off the day, but back to the story! There I was, paddlin' out, where what lands on me board? A fkn aqua-turd! It squashed on my chest. Why do it guys?
- Maybe you should have used the time you spent in hospital, learning to spell and write.
i broke my bak there last year - i did the perfect tkae of and was gettin absolutely shaked then another surfer sropped in and wipped out. he landed onj my and we hit the reef at the same time he crushed me on the the sharp reef and i was helicopter lifted outgood thing i had a hot nurse
treneere - trennere is the new training ground for world class bodyboarders especially at the trennere local shorey
cyclops - pipe is nothing compared to cyclops.... chad jackson is a fkn legend!!!
- fuckin howlie fuckwits
- You're right mate, Kainoa Mcgee is a pure stand out on both bodyboard and stand up, I would say the stand outs this year though at pipe had to be Chris Jefferies, Chris Burt and Ryan Holland from traneere, they're just amazing!!!
to the last guy - to the last guy...how can u compareu say liders are cats adn do it cause they cant stand up...how bout kainoa mcgee rips pipe on the knee lieing down and standing up...theres lots like it who jsut prefer to ride a lid because they are more functional.u cant boost 10-15ft above the lip and actually land it on a stick(you can but no1 has the balls to do it often) nearly every lidder u see with a bid section he hits and and lands it or if there is a big closeout he charges it and doesnt pull out...you dont see standups riding waimea shorey much do you??? dont be so biased each craft has its own purposes open up your mind fuckwit
- real pipe locals actually know how deep it is and know if ur a pipe surfer ur gonna get hurt if you fall your board will get broke lil haoles like body boarderz no nothing of pipe wow u say u get deep in the barrel why dont u actually try standing up maybe its becuase u cant and cuz ur afraid u might fall well buddy why dont u try SURFING pipe instaed of bodyboarding it homo its only maybe a foot and a half deep and maybe 2 and a half to 3 at high tide plz dont say ur a surfer u dickdragger.
I feel your pain Einstein - Did anyone mention that Hawaii is the most isolated place on earth. That it has the largest unobstructed body of water to have surf generated. Or that there is no continental shelf to slow down the open ocean waves before they stike the reefs. It is no wonder than that the "best" seek the country out. Add to it the local heavies and it is a radical place indeed. As for Pipe, get on a plane, paddle out on a big day, shine (or at least survive), then talk if you want. The islands have a way of humbling even the best. In the movie Endless Summer Bud Brown says that "everyone usually laughs when you see a wipe out, (however) in the islands no one laughs, they wait to see if you come up".
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