|Find the best surf spots||
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Datum: WGS84 [ Help ]
Latitude: 21° 32.104' N
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Past Kualoa Ranch, in front of Kualoa Valley (where the bunkers are.) Where the houses on the beach side end.
Easy to find?
Alternative name the point, kualoa valley
Good day length
Good swell direction, ,
Good wind direction, , ,
Swell sizeStarts working at and holds up to
Best tide position
Best tide movement
Park on either side of the street by the gate to the valley. Hit the beach, paddle out. Watch for rocks on the way in, and head out to the right, in the direction of the houses, to get around whitewash and to either the inside or outside breaks.
When this spot is cranking, the far outside can be amazing, and is never crowded. A good northeast or east swell can make for some really clean and fun 5-7+ waves. These waves break from open ocean to reef, and can be really powerful. Less adventurous folks can stay in the inside breaks, where it peaks at about 5 on a good day during the winter, and is usually about 3-4 feet hawaiian scale.
However, the outside is almost never consistent and is often just whitewater mess that is really difficult to get past, or worth it at all.
The inside break is divided into two halves. The first is closer to the beach, and is positioned right in front of the gate to the valley. Shortboarders and body surfers usually hang here, because the waves pop up and break faster. It gets shallow at low tide, but this area is sandy, so it isn't too bad.
The second is positioned in front of the bunker nearest to the valley. This is more popular with the longboarding crowd. The waves are not as frequent, but are often bigger and cleaner, and also go farther.
On a good day, a swell will overlap each spot, since they are diagonal to each other. Each spot can go right or left. For the second break, left leads to a sometimes shallow reef (but longer ride,) and right can overlap the shortboarders, if there are any there.
The first, more inside break tends to peel right, but can lead to an annoying area of strong current if you ride it too far.
As a person who lives, literally, down the street from this break, I can say that even though it isn't exactly world class, it's always fun to throw a board in the water here. Plus, there are many days where you and another person are the only people there, with the surf all to yourself. Beats driving to town or up north and fighting crowds.
I've never had a problem with people or aggressiveness at this spot.
When there's a strong trade swell, sometimes bluebottles/man of wars float in and hug the shore. Bring some vinegar and meat tenderizer in your car in case you get stung. As for sharks, typical common sense applies: don't go out at dawn, dusk, or when the water is murky. Avoid the outside when there are fishermen on the outside of the break. Go with a friend if you can, especially if you're going outside. I've never seen one at this spot, but I won't push my luck.
By Anonymous , 16-05-2010
- Oh man. I wouldn NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER surf this spot. We have huge problems fishing on the other side of the reef because of the aggerssive hungry tiger sharks stealing bait. Ive been fishing for 35 yaers and this is the only place I could say is INFESTED with tigers EVERY day. So much that they school up here which is super rare and makes them 10x more aggerssive. There's a reason why noone surfs here. And a reason some dude got eaten here last last .
By frozen hawaiian , 24-11-2009
good beginner spot - This is a great beginner spot, it's a bit of a paddle but in my opinion well worth it, I taught my girlfriend to surf at this break and we spent most of the day surfing this break and didn't get bored had some fairly long rides. the fact that I've never seen more than have 4-5 people on this break is really nice, it sure beats dealing with crowds of people at some other breaks here on oahu.
Bottom line: sure it isn't the best break on the island but for beginners and even some intermediate riders the fact that it's never crowded more than makes up for it's shortcomings.
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