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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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shaka - duude this place can really rip, careful of the tigers tho they dont like tourists
hhheaavy - I'm from southern california, ventura area and we have no wave like this. the 500 yard paddle out was totally worth the insain "tunnels" or tubes that i got. starting off slow i sat down and out catching the sets that would swing wide and stay open. after i got the feel for that steep drop in i moved up a few peeks. i saw a set comin in and i grabbed the 2nd one. took off on the peek and and made the drop. tried to get tubed and it ended up slammin me in the head. hahah extremely fun because after a few tries i made the tube and and slopes out into a slow shoulder that you can rip! props to all the surfers i saw out there grabbing the monster set tubes that i would have pissed my pants droping into!!! respect
mahalo for letting me surf your beautiful island. i'll never forget the view of the crystal blue waters and looking back at the increadable green cliffs lit up by the sun.
Tunnels is NOT worthy by Traveler - Stayed on Kauai and this wave is NOT worthy. I stayed here for a month and Kauai gets slammed with Big stormy swells. This place takes too much effort, long paddle out, blown out, i had a hammerhead shark cruising below my board. North Shore Kauai spots are not great as people claim. TO me, only the point at Hanalei. Me, a Honolua Bay loca.
- Aloha n shaka to the bros and pros on Kauai. I been surfing for a while (bout 19yrs) in the fridged waters of the Pacific NW. We don't really have crowds (except at like 3 spots on our 500mi of coastline), and with a very small coastal population, few of which surf, a "local" is usually just the first guy in the water... more than 5 guys in a spot, we find another. LOTS of "secret" spots, that really anyone can find if they care look. Anyway, all that to say, not too used to crowds, and I don't want to piss anyone off. I understand I need to give "respect" in the water in HI, but what exactly does that "Respecting the locals" look like? Do i hang back off the peak, do I say "Hi", "aloha", "sup"?nothing at all? Do I call wave so other's know I'm droppin? If I botch a bomb wave will I get shunned? Some specifics on "proper Hawaiian respect" would be much appreciated for this very white, loneranger, cold water surfer who wishes to grab just a few warm water peelers next week, without the need for 5mil of rubber wrapped around me. (And whether in a more localized spot, or even at a fairly open spot, I want to make sure I have respect as it is expected).
PS, coming to the NW and not a newb? look me up here and lemme know when. I'm always down for a good sesh.
Just surf kooks - Why don't you all just shut the fuck up and surf.
By keahoku Ocean
A Locals Experience With Kauai Localism - Over the years, things have actually simmered down. I remember in the 80s haoles would get jacked regularly with no recourse, because lawman was one of the good ole boys, too. These days, the remnants of bad-ass local boy cant get away with beating people up, becuase these days the court/crinimal justice system are working little bit bettah and people aren't afraid to turn to the law. For all you who want to return to the time of the Hawaiian Monarchy and Kingship, ask yourself, are you ready for this:1. No class movements - that is, no upward mobility. If you are a banana farmer, that's all you're ever allowed to be, even if you work harder than your neighbour who happens to be King. So be ready to be very humble in your lot in life, like in India's caste system. It was not a democratic system. 2. Censorship: You cannot say anything bad about the King or any of his friends or family, even if you know you are right and they have wronged you. If you speak badly, you will at the very least be slightly tortured and perhaps even executed. It was not a democratic system.3. Feifdom: If you produce lots of crops, or tasty ones, expect the King to vouchsafe much of them for his own economic advances. It was not a capitalist system, but more like a feifdom. 4. Be ready to join the Kings army or die. Remember the movie 300? If you resist joining the supreme ruler, you are a small minority up against a vast and powerful dictatos and amry, and will be crushed. It was not democracy. 5. No surfing unless you are royalty. That it was 'The Sport of Kings' means just that - regular people weren't allowed to surf - only royalty! It was not like it is today where everyone, even the poor, is free to surf! So, for all those who cry about the loss of the old Hawaii society and its great Kings, I think if you moved to present-day North Korea or Iran, you would feel a little closer to home... you like to be subjugated, controlled, and powerless, not by any white man or occupying force, but by your own royalty. Know your history, stop smoking ICE and work hard like everybody else who succeeds in life, before crying about your present 'plight'.By the way, Kauai got some great waves! But if you want to go back to old times, bettah hope you is royalty otherwise dont bring your board coz you wont be allowed to use it... Taro for thought.
- Whereever you go localism is around. just dont surf there. Tunnels is a crazy wave anyways. If youre just visiting, then dont expect to surf super good waves, it aint gunna happen. Go to Mexico or somewhere else, Localism isnt as bad. But...Kauai is not the spot to go if you're looking to escape localism. You're wrong about the ass kicking thing too, the boys arent gunna get it any worse. Who you gunna go to? The local cops? Think their gunna have some haole tourists back? No. Shoots.
To crazy locals... - Just STFU. Do something useful with your life and stop hating on tourists, especially if they are respectful to nature and locals. You don't own the ocean and you don't own the beaches, even though you might wish you did. Also, remember, if Hawaii wasn't part of USA, it would probably be part of Japan, and I'm sure you wouldn't like that any better. You aren't getting any respect from me if you're rude. And believe me, if I get beat up, the guys who did it will get it much worse. Remember, money and power talks, no matter where you are in the world. Hawaiian king learned that a long time ago, and you will too. Of course, peace is a much better way to go.
hahahahaha - get over the localisim and lset all just skurf and get naked,,,,,,brudddas
tigers - be careful cuddie......unleess you know the spot dont surf here.... we dont like you and neither do the sharks
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