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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Super Sharky - Surfed this place for a year strait, tons of baby sharks, big ones too and bumped me a few times, the big red bulls are fun to mess with too.. Used to see baby sharks strung up in the trees and left for dead.
For all you haole's in shiny tourist cars, I recommend taking a left at the makaweli post office, take your first right and parking at the end of the road.. Make sure you leave all your valuables locked in your car in plain view, cameras, wallets etc..!
Proper Respect - Aloha n shaka to the bros and pros on Kauai. I been surfing for a while (bout 19yrs) in the fridged waters of the Pacific NW. We don't really have crowds (except at like 3 spots on our 500mi of coastline), and with a very small coastal population, few of which surf, a "local" is usually just the first guy in the water... more than 5 guys in a spot, we find another. LOTS of "secret" spots, that really anyone can find if they care look. Anyway, all that to say, not too used to crowds, and I don't want to piss anyone off. I understand I need to give "respect" in the water in HI, but what exactly does that look like? Do i hang back off the peak, do I say "Hi", "aloha", "sup"?nothing at all? Do I call wave so other's know I'm droppin? If I botch a bomb wave will I get shunned? Some specifics on "proper Hawaiian respect" would be much appreciated for this very white, loneranger, cold water surfer who wishes to grab just a few warm water peelers next week, without the need for 5mil of rubber wrapped around me. (And whether in a local's fav spot, or even at a fairly open spot, I want to make sure I have respect as it is expected).
PS, coming to the NW and not a newb, look me up here and lemme know when. I'm always down for a good sesh.
Truth - I surf here whenever I come to visit family in the right season for swell. There are many old school and new school stories of sharks that people tell. I surf here anyway, but I do think that some of the stories are true.
By Sherlock Homey
More Directions - Park next to the the rock that looks like a turtle, and walk south one-hundred yards, and then turn right at the turtle that looks like a rock. You can't miss it.
Yo Newbies - Your not supposed to put spots like this on the interent with directions on how to get there and everyhting. In addition to your training on surfing etiquette (not dropping in on people), it is also very bad etiquette to tell the world about certain spots such as this that have a long history of being kept quiet by everyone else. Its not about being greedy, its about not dropping the world in on a local secret, just because you've been there once. Ever wonder why a spot can be good, with people surfing it regularly, yet so little is known about it? Think about it dumb-asses! Maybe I should post pictures of your living room or home entertainment center on the internet, inviting all with directions on how to get there?
By Happa Haole
No Matta - Your right, we're all here on earth for such a short time. No time to bicker. Aloha
By No Matta
Dear Happa Haole; - Brah, Try Relax. There is plenty aloha for you here. Smile and it will come to you. Loosen your fists, and shaka come natural!!Aloha.
By Happa Haole
Never Said I Was A Local Dumb A$$ - I said half of my family is from the islands, most of them grew up on Kauai, and Oahu. I visit once in a while, and lived there for a summer. I surfed every day, and never had any problems. Just because you grew up here has nothing to do with fighting or your brawling skills. Don't fool yourself, in Los Angeles where I live there are some tuff mother F#ckers that will wreck you, your narrow point, and your world. I feel sorry that your stranded on a little island with nothing to do but sniff speed and smoke crack! While I'm over here livng the life you can only dream of. So long SUCKER!
I love this spot! - This spot is awesome. I am a regular foot so I can't even imagine how much I would have loved it had I been a goofy. I got ther and the crowd was pretty, well...crowded, but it is so spread out that there was never a huge issue. However, there are a lot of longboarders there, so you need to be willing to get a good arm burn from paddling further back than you normally would. My first day there I paddled out and saw that there was no one taking off from beginning of the break, so I paddled out all the way out, which is a good paddle.I got there, caught a bomb and then realized why it is that everyone was camped 100 yards further down. I was bottom turning on about 5 inches of water aver a super sharp reef. holy crap, what an incredible barrel! But super scary. I couldn't help myself though, I ended up taking of from that spot over and over. I can not believe I never broke my board!If you only surf one break while you're in Kaua'i make it infinities!!!!
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