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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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For that one special "local" - I, too, have experienced that one dude with the messed up shoulder who paddles all retarded and drops in on everyone. I hear he lives in Los gatos or Scott's valley. Everyone was having a good time until he paddled out and started to "regulate." I stayed out of his way and he didn't really mess with me, but it still ruined my session because he was being such a dick to everyone else. My question to everyone else is: are you sick of him? Do you want him to stop? The mile is known for car break-ins, what if his car starts getting f*$ked up every time he's a dick? It might start to get pretty expensive for him to have to replace a broken window every time he surfs. Maybe someone should post what kind of car he drives. Think of it as karma. Just sayin.
4 mile - For a while 4 mile was my outlet, would head up there on small days, or a steeply angled northwest that didn't make the wrap into town. Was often populated with logs, slugs, beginners, and nice people on family days at the beach. And maybe a few local type guys warming themselves in the oven.
AFter 15 years of occasionally surfing there, last year was the first time I ever had anybody say anything to me. "Hey, get off the bowl, locals only here." I had to scratch my head, I kind of couldn't beleive what I was hearing. I was on a shortboard, didn't get in anybody's way, There were only like 3 other people out. My only crime was sitting at the bowl on an uncrowded day. All right man, you can have it, it takes too much time driving up there and hiking out the beach anyway. I hope you return the respect if you ever make it down to Sewers.
Karma has been served - WOW ... in the past 9 months as I drive up the coast several times a week from my "home owned" residence in SC ... I find 20 to 30 cars at 4 mile. Dwayne ... I am sorry braddah. Miss surfing the bowl buddy, but it is not worth it. Boycott the invasion of donkeys !!!
Move the oven to the tracks !! Check for badges like on the east coast.
Is it me ... but in every other sport you need to have an ability level before you move on (e.g. baseball, etc). Where's the beach marshall? Ohh that's right (our pecking order will handle it), we are in a recession ... California can't afford it. My bad ....
home - ok so 4 mile is my home... if ya know wats gud for you you wont diss it...
and those locals you capp on... those r my uncles..
dont mess wit them
end of story
yes - the last time i surfed here was about 5 years ago. I came from Texas and 85 degree water and hurricane surf all summer long. I got here and surfed in Santa Cruz in a nice 65 degree temp at the Hook. In the afternoon when the sun came out I trunked it. The next day we came here and the water was like 50 degrees. I had a shitty old school wetsuit that I barely used back home and it felt like a straight jacket. Oh my god it was colder than balls. You guys are some freakin mad men. I don't even know how they can charge Mavericks in the winter with Ice Cream Headaches and monster waves, rocks and currents...not to mention sharks. Y'all are a different breed for sure. Much Respect to the NorCal crew.
Competitive - If you are a beginner, you won't get good waves here. In addition to the pros, Santa Cruz has hundreds of surfers who rip. The guys who surf here surf here all the time, know the line-up and probably surf better than you. If the waves are good you'll be shut out. If it's small or mushy you'll be OK.
Beautiful wind shielded beach.
vernon is a loser - Who gives a shit. Is haveing a wife and kids a normal life? Maybe for you but some of us would rather surf everyday.Why dont you try staying home with your kids then and quit coming in the water. fucking poser
Vernon loser - Got to love guys who have no lives and surf one place every day and give people attitudes. Get a life (e.g. real jobs, wife, house, kids, etc). I find it funny that someone who several severe injuries who surfs 1X a week can blow you out of the water barney.
- hey guy, why don't you actually try talking to her. maybe that'll work. (hint hint)
florida mile. - This place is kook central. The wave is usually pretty SLOW and FAT, just like all the crusty old farts that flail around and try to ride the spot. Anytime I have to resort to surfing Florida Mile (which is rare), the day's surf hunt can basically be called a failure. Even when it does occassionally barrell on the inside shelf, it's just so soft and lasts for a split second before pinching shut and backing off into a fat shoulder. Basically, if you surf here regularly, you're a kook.
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