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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Dev - Dev can get really fun but there are some rocks from the land of the lost underneath you. And oh not to mention watch out for all the school kids getting caught inside and taking you out
- there was a plan propossed last week to put 90 min metered parking in at the end of DP. so that means 15 minutes to sands, 60 min surfing, 15 min to your car... great.
- I remember this day.. that guy tries to take off on the sands side... BIG mistake in that size. he ended up getting into the line up down in front of the torn down house w/ everyone else. I'd say it was a good 10 ft. but this place is soooo fun and idealistic for anything when it's 4 ft. or better (anyone who has had those great AM sessions knows the deal!) =) =) =)
check it - check out the new pic I posted. There is a guy caught inside. This was Dec 21 05. Huge! What do you think 10-12 ft?
fg - i used to get some fun days all alone out there while school was in session. not an epic wave but plenty rippable
Underated! - One of cali's best kept secrets... If you have a big west or north west swell 9 times out of 10 this place will hold! When it does your in for a treat. At mid tide and a couple feet over head this break is great! But this only happens 5 to 8 times a year so catch it on a good day! If you do the rights will be lined up for days! Catch one of the bombs on the outside and slide in at double over head... you'll think youve found god!
By Waimea Twin Fin
December 26 1980 - Anybody remember the north sell that came in in winter 1980? I was surfing an orange 6'4" twin fin, body glove wet suit. Around 5 or 6 O'clock the tide was really pulling out and the waves were getting steep. I put everything I had into taking off on a real monster. When I got up it looked like about 30' down. Air dropped for about 5 feet before I caught into it. Made the wave pretty good.
By ucsb alum
re: appreciate life - Hey I was out there in the water when that guy passed away, guys were out trying to do CPR in the water, it was definitely surreal. On another note I miss surfing here when I was in college. Not that I longboarded much, but Deveraux had some sick peeling rights on the big NW'S super soft though, but nonetheless, long quality rights, and if anyone acts like their tough just remind them there are only a handful of people that take that place seriously.
deveruexs= huge crowds - this place just get so crowded, evene if it somes times ( though rarely) gets good, it will just be paked with students
Appreciate life - I surfed deverauxs a couple years ago when I was a senior in college. It was one of those awesome late spring days when the air is clear and crisp, the waves were rolling through. Unfortunately, that day an older guy suffered a heart attack out in the water and died. Many people in the water attempted a rescue on the man, but to no avail. Now this can be viewed as a tragic incident, but to me it is the way I want to go. . . out in the water enjoying the waves, happy that I had the opportunity to enjoy the ocean. Since then ever time I get in the water I think about how it could be the last time, so respect every one out in the water no matter what they use to catch waves.
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