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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By you know who...
Puma/Tuna - Is that short stocky, red haired, freckle face homo named Tuna/Puma still surfing there? If you see him, tell him I really enjoyed his sister and girlfriend tagteam 69 session. Thanks for dropping in on me, or else I would never have fucked your sister...your mom is next
By sick of loud kids
Hey Mad Kid - Take it from me, I was once a mad kid too. Do as those before you have done: learn how to surf, don't paddle like a freak for everywave that comes within 50 feet of you, watch your mouth, and don't get in people's way by scratching for the shoulder every time a wave is coming toward you. The young crew at swamis are a mixed group. Some are respectful and are earning (slowly) a place in the lineup. Others (I suspect you are one of them) seem to think a spot in the lineup is their birthright. Patience will pay off, in the mean time relax and be quiet.
Eric Estrada - I surfed Swami's on a SoCal trip in September. I loved it! Fun longboard wave. The best part was the guy who's face looked like Eric Estrada's, but he had a curly mullet and appeared to be Hawian. Ha! This guy actually grabbed my leash while I was paddling for a wave... I didn't know what had happened but turned around and saw him take the wave. Well, that really pushed me to take the next 6 peaks, essentially shutting him down for about 30 minutes. My friend heard him bitching on the beach about "all these people invading his break". It was sooo funny. For one, he couldn't surf (at 45 years, I would have thought he wouldv'e learned by now)! His prickheadedness pushed me to have an epic day. THANK YOU PONCH!!! You made my trip to Swami's very self-realizing.
All time Swamis - There is a video clip of that magical day, which hit Socal three weeks ago. Offshore, double overhead, probably best surf in years...go to surfhistory.com and view the monthly clip/footage of swamis...insane...
By mad kid
local kid - I speak for every kid in encinitas when i say that you locals at swamies should lighten up. You freak out if someone under 20 takes a wave, and you go in a straight line down the wave, running over everyone and than getting mad at them when you fall. Stop being idiots and try to have some fun instead of yelling and threatning us.
By Joel Savell
Swamis basher - So I just got an e-mil from someone that saw my post, he called me a swamis basher and wrote this cool story:(p.s Santa Cruz still rules!!!!)It was solid double overhead plus, with some triple overhead freak sets. I was on my 6'6" trying to compete with 100 guys for scraps. There were about 10 people dominating the peak and getting every set wave. Most of them were on big boards so it was tough to paddle side by side and catch the wave so I decided to sit inside a little bit. I paddled for a small set wave (about 10' face) and just missed it because the offshore winds were blowing so hard. I turned around and got crushed by a huge swing set. I almost got ran over by 2 guys taking off deep in the pit. The first wave broke top to bottom about 5' in front of me and tore my board from my hands. I came up for air, sucked in a bunch of foam, and prepared to get destroyed by the next monster whitewash. I bailed my board and my leash broke. Needless to say, I was fucked. I was stuck in the pit at outside swamis in double to triple overhead, heavy surf, without my board. I made it in fine, but I was totally exhausted by the time I got to the beach. Someone had put my board on the rocks so it was fine too. I grabbed my board and started up the stairs where I saw one of my high school buddies standing there watching the surf. When he saw my broken leash, he started laughing and grabbing his head saying, "nooooo..., you weren't that guy....nooooo..., duuuuude,oohhhhhh nooooooo! Then some of the photographers turned and started shaking their heads with a little smirk. I was famous for all the wrong reasons! Anyway, my point is that Swamis isn't always soft!
By Ripping Elsewhere
It's History - This place is for stupid surfers that need stairs into their crowded surf spot. Don't waste your time. This place is so crowded it's not even fun to WATCH any more!!!!!
By Trevor Crist
make your own ending - . . .It was right then that Todd Martin, fresh out of jail, snuck up behind me and busted a 40oz over my head, then broke my bitchen airbrushed board over my head. Then he picked up my Penelope and they took off together. Now I cry myself to sleep every night, clutching onto a piece of my broken board.
By Joel Savell
Norcal what? - Only pros wear neon wetsuits, so the photogs can spot them easier. Everyone else wears black wetsuits. I've seen 1 punk haircut on a surfer in the last 10 years, and that was on halloween. If you knew your history, you would know that santa cruz was and still is well ahead of it's time. Santa Cruz was a catalyst in the late 60's early 70s shortboard development. Kevin Reed and the crew was busting new school air moves back in the early 80's. O'neill wetsuits (based in Santa Cruz) is on the cutting edge of wetsuit design and style. You know nothing. By the way, Swamis is a soft wave, suitable for longboarders and wannabee rippers who can't take off deep. Come to Norcal and you will find out what it really means to get worked.
viva zapatista - they say we'll kill them off take their land and go there for vacationhey swami longboarders long boarding is frooty and you make a good wave look bad f***ing red neck ,yahoo old farts, your time is over go to leasurworld
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