2-4 swell works
the whole thing about macking swells is BS b/c I was there on a 2-4 foot swell and it was breaking...there was only 3 guys on it
comment by Anonymous, 2007-02-18 11:52:18
Takes care of itself
This is one of those places that will to some degree always take care of itself. It only works on HUGE macking swells, and requires the right tide to avoid being impaled. Nonetheless please do the right thing and keep it low key.
comment by Bring It, 2007-01-25 00:31:32
In regards to Protect it by Keeping quiet about
Let me add my perspective on {Locals}. You speak of home break like you own the the water you're surfing in. Nobody owns anything and no one is entitled to anything. Those are the facts. The people who think of themselves as locals { 99% of them couldn't afford the property they surf in front of.} need to get a clue. If they follow their own rules then they can't surf any other spots outside their own so-called turf. Currently I live 45 miles from the nearest beach and I consider So. Cal. my home break. How about that for Localism. I surfed an epic swell 6 years ago while living in Pasadena. Day 1 Big Dume, Day 2 Tresles and Day 3 Malibu at 8 to 10 ft. Highly crowded at all 3 spots and the only trouble I had was with a 60 year old man {6' 1" and 220} who wanted me to produce a gate key in order to get back up the trail to my car. My point in responding to your E-mail is to tell you to lighten up. I've surfed your spot and many others which are considered localized and have had plenty of runins but nothing ever comes of it. Its seems that if you're going to succeed at keeping your home break free from outsiders you,re going to have to do more than shoot your board at them, use profanity and throwing the ocassional cheap shot. I surfed PV Penn. south of the Cove on an 8 to 10' rainy day with 200 yard lefts with perfect shape.I had already looked over the cliff and saw 6 or 7 guys spread out over 600 yards. Walking back to my car to suit up this guy in his late 20's pulls up and starts making all these threats if I don't leave now. Needless to say he drove off and I went surfing.I caught some insane waves and never had one person paddle over, even though I thought I was in the best spot. I don't know who to thank for the uncrowded session but I am grateful. Finally let me add one more fact to this locals subject. Whatever you dish out in the way of deterance to the people you don't think belong. Be prepared to get it worse in return. Peace
comment by Anonymous, 2008-03-09 17:33:52