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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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response to yellowblack2 - I can't believe that I am actually responding to you but the things you write must be for a comic book! And no disrespect to Puerto Rico because I love it and have been there over 30 times starting around 1980 when Pilo,Edwin Santos,and some Americans inc. Rick Rasmussen had a fight at Marias over surfing!
About your response comparing Sunset to Tres Palmas and Chatarra to Pipe I am curious how many days U surfed Sunset or Pipe when the buoys are 10' every 22 seconds? Well although I have surfed Sunset,Pipe and Tres Palmas I have never surfed Chatarra so I cannot say which is the longest.However, a friend of mine which I would love to hear what he says Alberto Licha is 1 of the best surfers from Puerto Rico and I know he has spent much time in Hawaii because I surfed with him there and he CHARGES and is "the MAN" in BIGG Waves. So hopefully he can give us the real info. And by the way,pretty work on your el rolls and whipsnaps and humdingers but remember- Tricks are for Kids or evidently someone "licking toads" are something stronger!!
response to yellowblack - dude what kind of drugs are you on?
yellowblack - I meant to say my parents are from here, Puerto Rico. Jibarito heritage. I also ripped Tres Palmas on the XXL day on my 6'4" squash tail thruster doing stand up el rollos inside the barrell only to land, stall(with my legs ofcourse) and riding hands free back side in the foam ball which led to a round house cutback to foam bounce then just faded and waited to do a bottom turn vertically up into a Kerrupt flip, but I didnt land it right and landed behind the wave. All this was possible because it was only 6 foot out there and I called it bigger cuz I wanted to impress some ugly ghastly pale girl from Ohio.
yellowblack - Hey S.R. you're right. Tres is a dip shit over hyped up spot. It's easy as hell to surf. But a good wave is called a good wave because its good, and so on with perfect waves. But you and me, we like waves that are harder to ride and that break like crap because thats how we roll. And as for the dude who said its really just 6 foot out there. Yea your right. The surfline's pictures of the recent swell calling Tres Palmas XXL was a hoax. It was edited to make it look big. They made the men surfing the wave look small by computer tricks. That very day I took off on my M.R. 6'4" twin fin, took off behind the peak, backside, and instead of pig dogging thru the barrel I did a lay back stall and came out in a soul arch and then proceded to a reverse chop hop off the lip landing on the roof to a rock and roll floater into the flats after which I did a standing Island Pull out. I was being cynical. So I'll tell you bucko! Tres is a cleaner, faster, bigger, more perfect, hollower, better quality, more intense wave, and doesn't have the mush to back off crap that Sunset has. Big Chattarra is hairier and longer than Pipe too. What do Pipe and Sunset have? History, fame, exposure, and hype. But I dont know what I'm talking about so stay out of Puerto Rico and go to the raped freak zoo called Hawaii. And I'm Puerto Rican, born here and my parents are here. S.R. I'm sure you would have had no problem riding the recent XXL April 2008 swell, and mr. anonymous, it was just a 6 foot swell. Ego maniacs. Your right, and I hope everyone believes you so that you would all stay away.
Tres yo - Surfed there in Febuary this season. Good wave. Doesn't have the power or crazyness of Sunset I would say its more comparable to big Lanis... A good bigger wave rippable Right.. fun fun
Sick Right hander - I was there on Thursday 4/5/07this is the biggest,sickest right hander I have ever surfed, I agree with the poster above there are some nasty sneaker sets and some poles that occasionally become exposed not for rookies! I have been doing this for 17 years and even I was weary of certain sets, look out for the Jet Ski's pullin guys into waves!
- soo many empty waves?no balls?
Clean Up Sets - I have surfed Tres many times over the last two decades and there is one thing for sure. If you are sitting on the peak; at some point in your session you will be mauled by a big sneaker set. The sets that come more out of the west sneak up and hit the reef square giving you little time to react. Everyone that has sat on the peak knows of this; all the others that sit near the channel "shoulder hopping" watch the show.
- tres is like big laniakea, it can crunk you up.
? - Yeah, why are all the pictures of empty waves with No one surfing them ???
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