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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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dont talk to george - pedro who lives in the trailer is a cool guy but STAY AWAY FROM GEORGE. he wandered into our camp at two in the morning all bloody and we were forced to take him into town and my buddies got thrown in jail just for taking him to the police station to get help. its a soft mushy wave but great for bringing a chick and longboards and just hanging out.
Just got back. - It was overhead plus! The north side of the beach has a great left, and the point has a nice right. Some of the waves are weird though. They back off just when they look like they should break. Then other waves are real fast and steep faces. Surfed it on a NW and SW swell while we were there. Wind can change directions anytime, best in the A.M.Pedro lives in the trailer on the point, white Ford pick-up. He'll pick up your trash if you bag it up and take it into town. Also picked us up some beer and ice. Left his dog Mitsy a half Pitbull have something else for security. We fed her chicken and cheese-its, she loved it. Watched our campground all night, and protected us from the coyotes. The last night she got into it with the coyotes and injured her leg. Kinda felt bad about that.Don't trust George his lives somewhere behind the hills he'll be walking. He sold firewood to another camp and never came back with the money. Pedro doesn't get along with George either. Anyway great spot. Bring all you need, no bathrooms, no showers, no food. Well some locals drove by one day and sold us two lobster and two abolone for 40 bucks U.S.I would exchange your US Dollars before you go south of Ensenada, and bring a exchange calculator or something. Tecate is the cheapest. Don't bother with Pacifico or Corona, to expensive in this area. And bring drinking water.
Fun Trip Funky Waves! 7-05 thru 7-06 - We went for the big South Swell. It had some size but the form was not that good. Surfed the Right "Sort of" Point, but there was a real horrific rip...real weird. A couple of guys with us surfed the beach break in front of the river mouth and they took some pictures...Will have to add them later.
tasty pie - Great swell came in 61006 and then we partied great spot.Just five people on a tasty swell.
Fun Spot - Spent three days there over Labor Day. Good spot. Bring your own food and water. Great old guy lives there, sells firewood.
always fun - went down there last week and it was 10-12 with really good shape, a couple of coves up and down the coast had fun waves as well. this was the fifth or sixth time i have been there in the last couple of years and when it is small it is still fun, as for the trailor his name is pedro and is family is politically connected so that trailor is not moving, the guy up the valley is gorge(the wood guy)and he is a good person so talk to him, be nice and he'll hook you up, over the last couple years he has hooked it up with lobster,crab, mussels and all kinds of fish, and the price is nowhere near u.s. prices, less than half.
By wish i had a rifle.com
flagrant fools - The guys who where yelling Oxnard in the lineup and burned your car on the cliff here last spring watch out for the bad karma thats coming your way.That took the cake for the worst thing ive seen Americans do in mexico. I doubt it you were even from Oxnard because you paddled out right next to the only guy out with a 1 mile stretch of empty peaks and crawled to your feet. Such pollutants. The worst ive seen. Keep it clean or just huff gas and die pricks. Waves were fun though.
By Have Fun
Just Got Back - Yep, the doublewide is still there. It belongs to the local fisherman who fish the area. There are also two autos now on blocks near the trailer. Unsightly? Definitely! But let's not look at this through foreign (American) eyes. Here's the deal: as you come up from the south from Erendira, after you leave the Erendira limits, the land to your right is private and the land to your left is Zona Federal. (Specifically controlled by the municipality of Ensenada. Yes, Ensenada. How they got that gig, I don't know. With few exceptions, no one can own the land in the Zona Federal.) But here's the deal: no Mexican agency (from Ensenada or otherwise) is down there to enforce any misappropriation of land or "illegal" land use. Thus, the doublewide fisherman's trailer on the point. For any of you that have been to the area, you probably noticed that you don't have to pay for camping. If you have been to the true Punta Cabras (not the 'surfer's' Punta Cabras further north) you will see a sign that asks for donations to camp there. That being said, there are miles of open beachbreak and secret, but fickle, coves to be surfed and fished in the area. [The previous words and punctuation is/are a simple re-creation of a third party telling, of a "two, first person" interaction.... of three people. They spoke two different languages around a campfire, under the shawdow of a fish trailer.]
By Murf the Surf
Baja 500 race - Just spent 3 days at Cabras. The waves were really fun. Especially at the north point. Windy in the afternoon with an evening glass off each night. The race was EPIC. Right there in front of you. We climbed up the point and a helicopter buzzed us as it was filming the front truck in the race. Needed more time. The swell picked up again as we left too.
By The guy in the other white truck
Been there a few times - Brought with me plenty of toilet paper. Too much and the crabs, oh my. Belly bad luck and wicked Jagermeister hang over. Lots of flys. Don't fall asleep on the iceplant, wake up with the itchy-scrathies. It gets crowded now? I thought I scared everyone away. Must be time for a return trip, see you there 4-9-05 to 4-13-05
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