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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By good times
4/26 - Fun this morning. Got in the water about 7, surfed until 10. A little inconsisent but chest to head high plus sets. Throwing on all the sets top to bottom. with at most three people in the water. nice
porque tu hablando? - why does everyone write such bad messages? i live down there and everything that people are saying is all crap. dont come back and surf if you guys are all going to be pussies!bms isnt for pussies anyway.
Baja Malibu - I have been here so many times in the past twenty years and have surfed it huge macking winter, summer dawn patrol glass (with cold water in August) and everything in between. My buddy Ray got his board stolen off the beach in broad daylight while he was sleeping here, with his legrope attached! I have print photos of a spot just north of here totally huge and going off and I have photos of a HUGE shark in the lineup here as well. I have never heard of an attack here though.The currents are no joke. It can get too big here to paddle out. The water can range from crystal blue glass to turd infested Yoo-Hoo. This spot is a quick fix for SoCal surfers, there are always waves here. It has been knee high at home and double O here an hour later. For those of you who don't know, avoid TJ. It is generally nothing but trouble. I live in San Diego and I know literally dozens of people who have had TERRIBLE experiences here, including getting ripped off, arrested, beat up, stabbed, robbed (by the cops usually) detained and fired from their jobs, etc. etc. Don't even think about buying drugs down here. You may never make it home.If you want to buy Mex stuff, go to Popotla (just south of Rosarito) way safer and more reasonable. There is a drug checkpoint there with Mex police with G3 rifles but just be cool and don't joke around. If you speak Spanish, things are a lot easier. Almost all cops in Tj are on the take. A twenty will usually get you out of whatever bs charge they pull you over for. DO NOT go to the station with them. This is not the states and they can beat your ass, take all your money, your boards your wheels, etc. Just ask if you can pay the fine right now. I hope this posting keeps at least one person out of trouble in Baja Norte. Buena suerte amigo. Seriously, if Baja Malibu is raging, don't paddle out unless you are fit and experienced. You will get pounded and end up down in North Rosarito with a long, humbling walk back to your car.
By tay lob
i dunno dude this place is sketchy - Was in Gaviotas over the weekend of Jan 14th. I was dawn patroing it w/2 other guys, and we saw a bunch of comotion coming from the area inside of the kelp bed. Then, within a minute or two, a large area of the water seemed to get alot darker where the comotion had come from. We saw a sea lion (or his body parts) float to the surface, and we the guy next to me turned sheet white.The fisherman in the lobster boat that was pullin up a buoy started screaming, "Tiberon!! Tiberon!!" I know enough Spanish to understand that he was yelling "shark," and we got the hell out. I know that it can happen anywhere, just lettin ya'all know that this was too close for comfort. BE CAREFUL, tay lob
bm's` - I just got back from baja malibu, and this is the first time i can actually say the water was warmer and cleaner than in californa... i stayed a few miles south of bm's in a place called rancho del mar, but it was in walking distance of baja malibu. surfed it and it was 4-6 with some bigger sets... it got pretty gnarly out there too
By El colombiano
Mejor que dos estrellas - This spot deserves better than just two stars. I surf it infrequently, but have normally scored there. Pollution? I'm from VENICE, CA and that's about as polluted as it gets. This wave will definitley kick your butt when its big. Tubes are heavy. Also, show some respect in the water. It goes both ways brother.
By cuidado puto
cuidado puto! - when you come to mexico dont drop in on people. i have been living there for 5 years know and i still get drop in on so just watch out next time your there dont snake anyone with a friedrichs or pearson. make sure to pay the guards up top or dont come back!
By Central Beach Boner
A little secret - This spot made the cover of Surfer in the 80's with some dude from IB in a stand up barrel.Oh,the secret.BM is part of IB.Has been and allways will be.
all you want - say all you want gang, baja malibu can and will take care of itself. people seeing sharks, pollution, tourists, locals, empty or crowded, i dare anyone to paddle out when it's 6 foot plus and not be humble. thanks alot, have a nice day.
By lesson learned
Flat Tires & pissy locals! - over this past south swell a gang of us ventured to BM's anticipating some sick barrels. We arrived at day break and were met with off shore winds and head high surf. We all paddled out just south of the rock. Our veins pumping with adrenaline! The water was warm and only a few heads in the water. Making for a perfect surf trip adventure in baja. Well my friends it soon came to a halt. One of our pack dropped in on a supposed local, accidently of course. The local paddled back out all pissed off. Our friend apologized numerous times and paddled up the beach. As soon as that happened it seemed like all the locals came out of the woodwork and paddled out on top of us. The vibe in the water was negative bumming us out. We all decided to paddle up the beach to the next peak. After getting out of the water we returned to our vehicle to find two flat tires and a friendly note left in wax. STAY NORTH! We also noticed the cars parked around us also had flats. So a word to the wise. be respectful and park in a secure spot. I will be weary of surfing this spot again.
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