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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Real DR Local
- The line-up is mellow. I lived and surfed in the DR for two years. The crowd is mostly made up of Europeans and the occasional Floridian. I've been in the water a few times when someone has tried to pull that localism crap, and the rest of us chased him out of the water. That United DR Local is just some scared little girl who can't get waves out in the water, so he has to try and sound big on the internet.
Conditions - Stayed at Breezes resort, as wanted a decent hotel (for the missus) within walking distance of a break. At first it is not obvious where the break is, as it looks nothing special from the beach, but under the right conditions this is a steep take-off (you can backdoor the peak) followed by a nice workable left: 1) Needs a decent ground swell (the more North in it the better - otherwise it doesn't hit the reef right, and is just a peak)2) Gets affected by the wind a lot (even a slight cross shore seems to ruin it, whereas other breaks seem to handle it). Get up super early as wind can start as early as 8.30am!3) Seemed to work best at mid-tide on the push, but that could be coincidence...4) One evening a thunderstorm right overhead caused the wind to go off-shore. The conditions were perfect (except for the lightening!)4) Very few locals - those that I did meet were cool and helpful (Helmut is a dude but don't drop in on him!!)Was unlucky with the weather (stormy for 1 week) so was just sloppy wind swell with gale force cross/on shore most of the time, but when this place is on, it's class.
EMPTY - If you want to go somewhere and have a wave all to yourself this is a good spot. I was there for a week and did not see another other surfer........ Get up really early as the wind starts up as early as 8:30am.
United DR Locals - The times of free waves & good vibes are over in the DR, localism is now in full effect!!!, you mother fucker visitors who dont respect the rules (drop ins & trying to get a wave over a local) will be imediately expeled from the water, if you try and talk shit and act like you own the place we will fuck you up, 100% guaranteed. A piece of advice: RESPECT THE LOCALS AT ALL SPOTS IN THE DR!!!
el canal - Super fickle wave hardly vere breaks and always smaller than elsewere. It sucks to walk all the way down for nothing.
Fun wave!! - Hi,I surfed El Canal in Jan.2004.The wave is a fast hollow take off with a fun inside.If you fall on the take-off there's a bit of a current that can get you stuck.No crowds at all and a beautifull beach.
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