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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By juan.. local
crocodile - Care with the crocodile! is realy big
swell direction matters - Do your homework and you will always have epic waves. swell direction at this point is from 195 to 212 south at about 9-12ft
watch out - Watch out for the locals, very territorial. A guy pulled knife on me last time in the water.
pura vida - I went to school just north of this spot for almost a year and rode it countless times. The wave is awesome and one of the most fun waves you'll ever find. It doesnt normally get real big but throughout the year there is around a 4-6ft wave that peels left forever and on occasion it does get big and there are tubes sometimes. You can ride it from the point all the way to the beach if its going good (maybe half a mile or something) and when its not it sort of breaks up into three parts, all fun. To get there enter at the port of caldera and its about a 50/50 chance they let you enter with a vehicle but you can still walk in regardless. Follow the path through the compound to the beach and when you get there you can either go right to el hoyo or go left to corralillo. Its a pretty long and difficult walk along the rocks if its high tide, on low tide its just long.
not so great - this spot was waist to head high everyday but not great..... at low tide it was good but not powerful at all it was a bitch on my 5'8 fish
- that first picture is el hoyo... when corralillo is small you can bet on el hoyo being a little better :-)
By bob email@example.com
You have to take a ponga to the point - Corralillo is a multi spot point break. Most people only walk to the beach with the fun left that breaks into the bay. To get to the big ones you have to take a Panga (boat) to the points. Cost us 6 guys $20 each for 6 hour tour. Speak with Diego at the Bocca Baranca Hotel for details. He will hook you up with food and stuff.There are 3 point breaks depending on the size of the swell. I just got back and we caught the 2nd point head high and it was grindy and super fast. Lots of rocks however and not for the weak of heart. Our guide told us he has seen it 20' plus and perfect gaping tubes.
- I was here in 2004. Boca Barranca had been going off for a few days then it went flat. Some one took me here. He called it Caldera. It was only waist high but it looks like it would be great head plus. Point break going left not as long as Boca Barranca. As far as those pics go, I can't tell where that is, could be I never saw it big. To get there you have to go to the truck yard at Caldera. They will let you in to surf. Park where they weigh the trucks and walk. You have to walk across rocks at high tide, and you could have trouble getting across with a big swell.
Are those pictures for real? - I have walked to the spot discribed in the directions and it was 2 ft when i looked. i could see it had potential, but it is sheltered from many swell directions. I find it hard to believe it could get as big as those second two pictures. Some one please verify.
?????????? - Aloha,anyone, I went by this beach last feb anthere was a small left off a reef toward the left side of the bay, but it looks like it needs a big swell to get in there. anyone know more about this spot?
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