Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.
Overview
Atmosphere
Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.
General
Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.
japan size
i been surfing japan the last year and nobody here knows how to measure a wave. they all think if its iver head high its 10 foot plus. The few who do hav the coast wired and think its great theres so many kooks because the "locals" dominate the good waves there are. funny thing is all the "local" breaks are river mouths and noone lives within 10km of them! Anyways theres sick waves in japan you gotta be polite, search the rivermouths and take everything you hear with a pinch of salt. When it is cranking, you wont hear about it!
comment by brad condron, 2005-10-19 03:59:48
shit shit shit
comment by matthew mackenzie, 2005-04-02 04:30:27
chi chi men
read it bullas it says swell size not fucking wave size
comment by me, 2006-08-22 19:41:50