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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.

Surf spot atlas made by surfers for surfers
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 Big Lefts

Japan, Shizuoka

Other places:

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 Access

It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

English (Translate this text in English): It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

English (Translate this text in English): It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

English (Translate this text in English): It's on the south of Izu. (1 & half hrs past Shimoda) Big jetty that wraps around a point. A small fishing village. Need to know locals to get there.

DistanceWeek-end trip

WalkInstant access (< 5min)

Easy to find?Hard to find

Public access?Public access

Special accessDon't know

 Surf Spot Characteristics

Surf Spot Quality

Wave qualityTotally Epic

ExperiencePros or kamikaze only...

FrequencyRarely break (5day/year)

Wave

TypeBreakwater/jetty

DirectionLeft

BottomBoulders

PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful, Ledgey

Normal length

Good day lengthVery Long (300 to 500 m)

Tide, Swell and Wind

Good swell directionSouthWest

Good wind directionNorthEast

Swell sizeStarts working at 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft and holds up to 5m / 16 ft and over

Best tide positionMid and high tide

Best tide movementRising tide

More details

Week crowdEmpty

Week-end crowdFew surfers

Webcam url 

Dangers

- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Localism

 Additional Information

Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

English (Translate this text in English): Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

English (Translate this text in English): Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

English (Translate this text in English): Jump in behind a big cement jetty. Paddle around it and it's a long, long paddle to the take off point. Stay in channel, you can sometimes pick off bigger sets when you're paddling out. Can be one long wave or broken into three sections. Depends on swell.Watch out for rip current. Going in, go into the bay. Might have to fight current to go in, but easy out when in bay.

Atmosphere

Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

English (Translate this text in English): Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

English (Translate this text in English): Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

English (Translate this text in English): Paddle in the channel or you'll eat shit when the sets come in. Even when you think you're far in the channel, the rip will take you into the impact zone. Could get ugly. Bring more than one board and cords. Great wave and long rides. Everyone who's out can surf well, so no worries on kooks. Surf gets best when it's 6-8ft+ (backs). Surfed it 12ft+, very few out and fucking scary.... the man made cement blocks can trap you.

General

Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

English (Translate this text in English): Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

English (Translate this text in English): Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

English (Translate this text in English): Classic wave when it's tamed. Breaks only when a typhoon is near. Dies out real fast. Usually a day or two at the most.

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 Comments

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By me , 22-08-2006

japan size - i been surfing japan the last year and nobody here knows how to measure a wave. they all think if its iver head high its 10 foot plus. The few who do hav the coast wired and think its great theres so many kooks because the "locals" dominate the good waves there are. funny thing is all the "local" breaks are river mouths and noone lives within 10km of them! Anyways theres sick waves in japan you gotta be polite, search the rivermouths and take everything you hear with a pinch of salt. When it is cranking, you wont hear about it!

By brad condron , 19-10-2005

- shit shit shit

By matthew mackenzie , 02-04-2005

chi chi men - read it bullas it says swell size not fucking wave size

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