Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Drive to the end of the river that flows south from Mt Fuji and surf on the gravel bar there. Access via a dirt track from the northeast in a nature reserve. Only breaks on south typhoons. Left and right barrels. DistanceDay trip WalkLong walk (>30 mn) Easy to find?OK Public access?Public access Special access4x4 |
Wave qualityTotally Epic
ExperienceAll surfers
FrequencyRarely break (5day/year)
TypeRivermouth
DirectionRight and left
BottomBoulders
PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful
Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good day lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good swell directionSouth
Good wind directionNorth
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to Don't know
Best tide positionDon't know
Best tide movement
Week crowdCrowded
Week-end crowdCrowded
Atmosphere
General
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