I love Takegashima
When it's big it can be scary. The typhoon swells make it break further out in front of the cliff but you can catch it 30 meters down the line where it's safer. But there are rocks near the take off zone and when the wave hits them it boils up and can make a ledgey steep drop. Then it walls up for some big turns and can roll on for 150 meters. Sometimes it flattens out a bit half way but with good position you can make through to the inside wall. The wave ends reasonably safely near a harbour entrance. If it's big it will break further out and end on the rocks on the other side of the bay. When small it ends on the tetrapods.Low tide is very dangerous. On a mid to high tide, medium swell, enter by walking along the tetrapods and jumping off. Some guys jump off the back, others off the front.Coming back in, ride a wave past the tetrapods and then paddle in behind them back to the steps where the tetrapods start.Once again, just beware of the take off zone rocks...They seem to suck you in as the wave sucks up just when you want to take off.Have fun!
comment by anonymous, 2002-10-14 04:43:26
I love Takegashima
When it's big it can be scary. The typhoon swells make it break further out in front of the cliff but you can catch it 30 meters down the line where it's safer. But there are rocks near the take off zone and when the wave hits them it boils up and can make a ledgey steep drop. Then it walls up for some big turns and can roll on for 150 meters. Sometimes it flattens out a bit half way but with good position you can make through to the inside wall. The wave ends reasonably safely near a harbour entrance. If it's big it will break further out and end on the rocks on the other side of the bay. When small it ends on the tetrapods.Low tide is very dangerous. On a mid to high tide, medium swell, enter by walking along the tetrapods and jumping off. Some guys jump off the back, others off the front.Coming back in, ride a wave past the tetrapods and then paddle in behind them back to the steps where the tetrapods start.Just beware of the take off zone rocks...They seem to suck you in as the wave sucks up just when you want to take off.Have fun!
comment by anonymous, 2002-10-14 04:43:08
no title
When it's big it can be scary. The typhoon swells make it break further out in front of the cliff but you can catch it 30 meters down the line where it's safer. But there are rocks near the take off zone and when the wave hits them it boils up and can make a ledgey steep drop. Then it walls up for some big turns and can roll on for 150 meters. Sometimes it flattens out a bit half way but with good position you can make through to the inside wall. The wave ends reasonably safely near a harbour entrance. If it's big it will break further out and end on the rocks on the other side of the bay. When small it ends on the tetrapods.Low tide is very dangerous. On a mid to high tide, medium swell, enter by walking along the tetrapods and jumping off. Some guys jump off the back, others off the front.Coming back in, ride a wave past the tetrapods and then paddle in behind them back to the steps where the tetrapods start.Just beware of the take off zone rocks...They seem to suck you in as the wave sucks up just when you want to take off.Have fun!
comment by anonymous, 2002-10-14 04:44:35