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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaia surfboard in Lances Left, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Rich B@stards
They were on Indies Trader 3 - That's the second year in a row these semi-famous old hawaiians came out and acted like they were at their home breaks and trying to vibe everyone. The best part is they are riding like 7'6" boards and guys on like 6'2"s are taking off deeper than them. I had the same problem with ken bradshaw the year before, he was with vitor lopez too. They were blocking for each other and doing all types of stupid shit. The best part is he was whining because i kept paddling like 30 ft deeper than him and getting the better waves, he also ditched his board instead of duck-diving, saw it with my own eyes. At the time i was asking one of the guys on my boat, who are these kooks? Then the guy was like "that's ken bradshaw!!". i say, stay in hawaii where your name and your past feats can allow you to disrespect everyone.
By both a little loose
Asshole Hawaiians and Feral Deal Seekers - Why are all the old haoles from hawaii such kooks? they all think they own the waves everywhere they go. I had a similar situation in the mentawais too with ken bradshaw. I don't care if he surf waiamea or not, in small surf he is a kook with shit style and i took off deeper than him on a 6'4" and he was on like an 8'0", then he complained i was taking of deeper, the guy was a little cry baby. Stay in hawaii with your fucked up attitudes, don't bring them halfway around the world where people go to try and get away from people like you. Also, if you want to go on a shitty local boat go ahead, but don't think you are safe. Yeah, you're saving money, but it's a 80 mile crossing out to those islands, and the weather is no joke. And don't think they have a radio to call for help when their boat starts sinking. When it's a choice between your life and a couple hundred dollars...maybe it's better to just work an extra month before you come and come away with your life and some good waves. (a fisherman who can't even swim doesn't usually make the best surf guide). You're not going to just rock up to the mentawais and be greeted with perfect waves at every turn. It takes alot of local knowledge to get it right. Go big or don't bother going
EuroCrew Cry Baby - In reply to the story by Eurocrew about Gerry Lopez' brother at Thunders. I was out at Thunders that day and saw what happened. Eurocrew has left out a few pertinent details about the incident. What Eurocrew has left out is the fact that nobody (and I mean nobody) was sitting on the outside peak when Lopez and the other surfers off of the boat he was on paddled out to Thunders. Once that group paddled out to the outside peak others decided to sack up and attempt a few instead of cowering on the shoulder and in the inside. Nobody in that group kept anyone from coming to the outside peak (I know; I moved out there myself). I never heard Lopez tell anyone to fuck off or threaten to kick anyones ass if they dropped in on him. What I did see was this (and I saw it first hand); Lopez was dropping in on an outside bomb (nobody else was in position, much less willing to go on it). Some moron (possibly a Eurocrew?) was paddling out through the take off zone and started yelling at Lopez to not run him over. Lopez was committed to the take off (nowhere to go but down) and this idiot expected him to move out of his way so he wouldn't get spanked by the wave Lopez was riding. NOW, correct me if I'm wrong but I always thought the person riding the wave has the right of way (maybe in euro it's different?I don't know...) and I always thought you're never supposed to paddle out through the take off zone. Anyways, the moron is obviously pissing/shitting his shorts crying his eyes out yelling at Lopez to get out of his way so what does he do next??? HE ROLLS OFF HIS BOARD,PUSHES HIS BOARD RIGHT AT LOPEZ WHO IS DROPPING DOWN A 15FT PLUS FACE, AND IN TYPICAL MANLY FASHION HE DIVES UNDERWATER LEAVING HIS BOARD RIGHT IN FRONT OF LOPEZ, WHO NOW HAS NO CHOICE BUT TO JUMP OFF OF HIS OWN BOARD AND ATTEMPT TO SAVE HIMSELF FROM A RIDE IN TUMBLE-DRY SPIN CYCLE. When Lopez came up he was, understandably, PISSED. Apparently the board he was riding was brand new (as in this session was the first he had ever ridden it in). He told the moron that if his (Lopez') board had been creased he was gonna kick his ass. Needless to say, he controlled himself admirably (if I had been in Lopez' shoes I would have run the moron over just on principle thereby ending the morons' surfing days and making the lineup that much safer for everyone else at Thunders that day including me). Later the captain of the boat moron was on paddled over to Lopez and asked him why he was picking on his group. I didn't stick around to hear what Lopez told the captain but I know he (the captain) did not tell Lopez to shut up or go back to Hawaii (if he had I'm sure a proper punch up would have followed and this did not happen). From the tone of the discussion and nods by the captain I believe he knew moron was being a moron. In closing I must say that, unlike Eurocrew, my afternoon was definitely not ruined, the assholes ruining the sport are not hawaiians like Lopez but imbeciles like the moron paddling through the take off zone, and shame on any crybaby whiner like Eurocrew who feels the need to twist a story around for whatever reason (make himself feel better?????).
By Euro Crew
Gerry Lopez' brother ... - Hi all,We recently went to the mentawais and were greeted with 15 foot surf at Thunders. There were many boats with people from Europe, South America, US and Aussies. Everyone was cool and stoked to share the waves until this happend:All of a sudden this Hawaien paddled out and it none other than Gerry Lopez's brother. He cut in front of evryone and told everyone to fuck off and that he was going to kick everyones ass, if they dropped in on him.Needless to say, it pretty much ruined the afternoon. Our boat capitain paddled over to him and told him to shut up or go back to Hawaii.It just shows that guys like that are assholes that ruin the sport and give the Hawaiiens a bad reputation. Shame on this fuckhead!!!
Surfing siberut, an impossible dream..? - Hey, i was just wondering if anyone knows about any surf on siberut island? it seems to be left out of all the mentawai surf coverage, and yet one would assume that there have to be waves there? is this because it is a remote national park? im intending on doing some conservation work on the island for around 6 months or so, so if anyone has any info regarding their experiences or knowledge it'd be great to hear from you.. cheers.
mentawai boat info ? - going to indo for the month of march. was wondering if you can just roll to sumatra find places to stay/find reasonable boat trips that aren't super taxed like everything on the internet.i hear that everything out there is dirt cheap so why shouldn't the surf.....120 per person a night seems lik a lot to stay at surf camp.are there any cheaper places on mentawai...what is the set up like
just got back - just got back from surfing on the catamaran freedom and thought i should post as there wasnt a lot of current info just before i left. great captain (lee) and awesome food (thanks chris) on that boat. the waves ranged from 4ft to 8ft with quite a bit of power. take offs were not too difficult even on bigger days so long as you take off on the peaks, but after that you down the line pretty quick with sometimes no choice but to pull in to barrel and hold on. great waves but wind and tide conditions mean perfect for a few hours then you may have to move on or just sit and wait (read lots of down time so take ipod and dvds). breaks are a fair way apart so fast boat would be a good idea if poss. some land options exist (wavepark etc) but you limited to one area. i dont think it is an ideal place to go for inexperienced surfers - there are a few softer waves with deeper/less sharp reefs (eg pussy's, burgerworld, pit stops) but it is a lot of travelling and expense to go to to surf that sort of wave which you can probably get at home! the better breaks generally have quite shallow reef and pretty fast (ebay, hts, lances etc) and dont break properly until at least solid overhead. also you a long way from help if you get hurt. as for crowds we rarely had breaks on our own - usually at least one other boat - the better the wave the more crowded - if a swell on its way to say HTs (as for us) then everyone knows and heads there for it (there were nearly 20 guys in water at one point with drop ins etc)- having said that you will still get lots of waves and occasionally will get lucky - just wished i had been there 5 years ago!. hope that helps
seeking to work on boats - it is my dream to work on one of those boats up there. i am going for my diploma is marine toursim and going for my skippers degree so can anyone give me a hand
surfing Mentawai - Hi everyone who can give me some info about surfing Mentawai. We are a group of not very experienced surfers and we would like to go to Mentawai in January-February. Is it a good time to go? Are there spots that are not always huge and too difficult to surf? Do you have to go on a charter boat tour or it is possible to travel on your own (by renting a boat from natives or by some regular boat transport...) Cheers!
- Crowded is such a relative word. I live in a surfing metropolis in SoCal, so I thought crowds in the Mentawais were rather pleasant. The most guys out in a session was like 25 and that was at HTs and they were spread out over the line up. The day before I surfed Lance's Left a few feet overhead by myself for two hours before one guy came and joined me. If you are looking for a more remote trip, why don't you take the trip to Lombok and Sumbawa or go on your own by land and camp at a deserted spot? Either way, you'll be stoked. Good luck.
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