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I'm free ... free falling ... free falling ... nose down angle past 45 degrees,

side angle 30 degrees ... in the breech ... Wham ... the pier bowl hits the

breakwall and rebounds with backwash jacking up the peak to well overhead,

the lip pounding hard on my shoulders ... Bam ... in the barrel now, keep the

bloody nose up baby, grind, grind, the fight-or-flight response kicks in

(tunnel vision, silence, adrenaline rush, slow motion). One thousand and one,

one thousand and two, one thousand and three, one thousand and four,

one thousand and five ... Slam ... hit the green shoulder at max speed,

just flying ... Whoa Nelly!

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Conditions were perfect with the incoming push from a 10AM high tide. Caught not one, but two epic waves ... late take off's on the wrong side of monster peaks against the sea wall, just sneaking under and though them board flying, hanging on by one 3" side bite and a couple of feet of down rail, into the barrel ... swoosh ... down the line, spat out onto a long glass wall!

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Not all fun, fun, fun, the fog got so thick for an hour or so the sets just seemed to jump up out of nowhere. Took off on a first set wave, bad idea, blew me through into the channel between the left hander 'Harvey Wallbanger's' off the break wall and the suicide rights (into the pier) from the middle sandbank then sucked up and Niagara Falls body slammed me into the shallow impact zone.  My leash held me down forever trying to drown my butt then wave after wave pounded on me.  I could not see the beach, could not see the pier, getting worked hard, caught in a washing machine of swirling currents, the only way I knew which way was which, was the sea of white water pushing towards shore!  

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Harvey Wallbanger

1 oz Grey Goose® Vodka
1/2 oz Galliano® Herbal liqueur
4 oz Orange juice

Pour vodka and fresh squeezed orange juice into a tall Collins glass over ice cubes and stir. Float Galliano on top and serve with a sprig of mint and twist of orange peel

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