|Find the best surf spots||
Sunday January 20 2008 05:30:00 PM
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 1.5 min
Surfboard ridden: 9" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 74 F Cloudy, Water not sure
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Checked out the surf earlier in the day, but due to it being a Sunday, every decent spot was over crowded. Decided to wait until around 5pm when most of the Sunday crowd heads back to Lima. Was looking for somewhat of a beginners spot for practicing with my longboard. La Isla had too many waves running into each other, so you'd get 2-3 waves all packed together within 5 meters of each other (so much for 15 period).
The best looking spot I found at 3pm was the small south point break at Caballeros, but when I returned at 5pm it was flat. So I headed back to La Isla. The waves weren't too impressive (high tide) but we decided to head down and just hope that something started up. I'm not quite ready to get out in the central reef break with the larger swells, so I decided to try the point break along the north shore. I swam out a bit early because some lady wanted me to tell her kids to come in so they could leave.
Anyhow, I get out there and I guess the kids caught a wave in, because they were gone. I got lined up to catch some waves, but there weren't any ridable waves. While I wait, I constantly get pulled out with the current along the rocks. With the bodyboard and fins it wasn't much of a problem, just a little extra kicking. But with the longboard in the current, plus the tide starting to go out, it was an uphill battle. I tried to swim around the rip, but it not only pulled me out but also towards the rocks. Eventually I got out away from the rocks enough to get around them, but it took me over an hour of non-stop paddling to get back in to the shore.
Great arm work out I guess, but certainly not a real good spot for me yesterday. Finally when I got back to the shore and was totally worn out, the waves started to break... ugh! While paddling in there were no waves to ride back in and after I got in there are beautiful 5-8 foot waves.
End result is that I'm going to have to find somewhere else to practice the basics of my longboard. Playa Norte and La Isla aren't really working well (better for shortboards or bodyboards). I don't really want to go to the Costa Verde because of the pollution and all of the rock beaches. If anyone can recommend a good beginners break south of Lima that has a sandy beach, I'd love to hear it.
Created: Monday January 21 2008 04:35:54 PM
Modified: Monday January 21 2008 04:35:54 PM