Update: Summer is on the wane and so are the South swells but the big Northwesters from the Gulf of Alaska are lining up! (9/27) A foggy morn in Sealie Town .... Don't know about nightingale's singing in Berkley Square but the Rivermouth was going off!
Chest to head high plus on a mid tide with a solid push from a combo of NW/SW groundswells. Clean glassy conditions with a slight offshore and patchy fog. A shortboarder had the leash pin ripped out of his board and Doc broke his 10' Auz EPS/Epoxy in half on the sandbar at Mullet Reef.
Pinkie picked up a monster peak and tucked up high under the lip! I sat a little inside and got a couple of smokers across the boomerang on the inside sandbar. The Professor suggested I should be listed as a registed 'surf offender' LOL.
Herr Doktor,
"As I was getting dressed I saw you performing date-rape on a shoulder!
High, lovely and brutal. Slashing climbs and drops all over that poor
innocent thing!"
This morning it was less consistent, but got lucky and made a late take off on a pitching peak than ran into a steep wall all the way to Crabs!