Weather and water temp: sunny but colder water 16-17 deg C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality: - powerful - fast
Waves Shape: - walls
Description:
The swell was building, having dropped off after the BongofbillsPro. The water was noticibly colder today but still fine in a 3/2. I got worked by a wave after about 20 minutes and my back started blocking and twinging - otherwise I'd have stayed in longer.
The waves were big on the sets but happily were quite catchabale at the Point. Had 4 long rides down past the beach and onto the next section (150m-200m+).... and did a rare thing for me.... stopped the session on a great wave - didn't do that usual kak of paddling back out for 'one last wave'....
Forecast sites showed it being 12ft - which made for nice waves at Point and some pretty hectic rides at Supers (not me ;-). The next day showed the forecast of 21ft swell..... happy that I was about 900km inland by then.
