Surf trip: Mentawaï 2009( 09 April 2009 - 25 April 2009)
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: sideshore
Wind Strength: light
Nb waves ridden: 2
Lentgh of the surf session: 0.75 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1.2m-1.5m / 4ft-5ft
Waves Quality: - powerful - fast - tubular
Waves Shape: - one peak
Description:
I started to take photos with my Subal housing. After 4/5 waves with paul & Remi, I dive under a big wave and lost a fin :-(
Then, I get my board I started to take some waves. Just in and Hugo grab me a good wave, paddeling on the inside. Fucking guy. Spending 45 min to take picture and he still fight to grab waves over me. That's not fair!!!
I was upset, then get a 1.5m wave and fall after the take off. The wave smach me on the reef and kick my ass (maybe a broken coxis bone!). Some cuts on the coral and a big pain in my ass !!!!
