Waves Quality: - fun - powerful - hollow - tubular
Waves Shape: - walls - multipeaks
Description:
The swell was expected to rise during the day from 1.20m to 2.5m. When I came, the tide was high but a beautiful outside bank was working: perfect lefts were breaking every ten minutes. I was alone in the water and it was really good. Waves werfe powerful so I just make big turns in the glassy faces.
After one hour, the peak was starting to close out. I went outside to check the south. But it was not a good choice: there was a right but not as good with a lot of surfers. after 20mn I came back to the left. It started breaking better and hollower. The best waves were around a solid 2m with a lot of current but the left was long, hollow and makeable.
We were only two surfers as it was hard. After 3 waves, I dropped in a solid one: I started with a long fun wall then an hollow bowl started to rise up just in front of me, I hesitated as it was big but I slowed down, stayed really high in the wave and get tubed, a big one, get the lip on my head at the end then I continued to surf on the end of the wall with big turns. It was one of my top ten wave in my life.
As I was tired, I went out. It was a good choice: the swell continued to rise up and it became too big.
