so its saturday, i think independece weekend for costa rica, lineup is packed. waves suck. out of nowhere I see a bump, i paddle towards the peak, other local snags it...im a little bumbed but as soon as I make it over the lipline, i see right behind it is another. i glance around and Im the only one in the spot. i drop in, hit the lip acouple times get acouple quality turns in and kick out right behind the dude who took the first one. behind me, there are no more waves, just like 3ft, bullshit slop. i paddle out right behind the first guy, and as soon as we make it out to the peak, 2 more freak waves come, he grabs the first again, and i see that there is someone else looking like there gonna paddle for the second. so from the second I saw the 2nd set shape up, i knew this wave was mine. dude paddles for the wave, hes got priority, drops in, behind the peak about the time im dropping in right at the peak, he pearls and im left free and clear. with the adrenaline pumping from the first wave just acouple minutes ago I surfed the second about the same as the first, again kicking out rigt behind the first guy. and that was it, the rest of the day was crummy mush. but for sure 2 sick waves on an otherwise crappy day with very little swell.
