Now the tropical depression was here. And it was big, windy. Nearly it was too much !
I jumped into the water to surf with 2 other surfers: at the peak, I discovered thet the other surfer was brasilian who was working at the local Sony's factory .
Waves were hard to surf and I was backside. But I got some good ones. Imagine a big shore break. You have to pay attention to the tripods. Don't coma at less then 15-20m or you will be projected by the rip into the tripods. Pretty ugly.
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