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Session: Fast Swell
Written by yann 
Tuesday, 19 August 2008 - 11:00:00
Spot: Ataka, Japan
Surf trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: onshore
Wind Strength: strong
Nb waves ridden: 10
Lentgh of the surf session: 1:00 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty
Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- mushy
- powerful
- hollow
- bumpy
Waves Shape:
- bowl
- close out
Description:
I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.
I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.
 the beginning of the session: smalle waves
But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:
 the right started to work
But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!
 It broke outside tripods.
As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.
Buddies:
Created: 2008-08-21 09:40:20
Modified: 2008-08-21 09:41:15
Hits: 348
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