I remember it clear as ever. I was only eight years old and had just got the board about a month before for my birthdaay. I had already learnt to stand up about 9 months before hand on a boogie board and was still pretty green with a fiberglass board. I was catching white water and got a sick reform in the shory. It formed up on a mad left. They kept commong ththrough consistently, but as a full super grom was strugglig to paddle against the rip. I only got that one wave that was wearth talking about (or so I thought at the time!) and was so frothing that I went strait home to tell my mum.
The funny thing is that I have had sick waves almost every boxing day since.
