It started with a short drive to godrevy beach. got changed into my winter rip curl f-bomb suit and took out ma board. the waves were sick, clean , glassy , hollow and powerfull. paddled out to the bak with ma dad (who has surfed pieline) so i leared a few things. staright away a mint waves came and staright up onto this pure perfection wave. sickest and most tiring day off ma life