Wannasurfers

Trip: The Pursuit of Perfection

Written by DrC123

Thursday March 13 2008 05:35:34 PM

Date: from Mar 13, 2008 to Mar 13, 2008

Surf trip description:

Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Monica just before 8AM daylight savings time ... 8 miles to Malibu! Slip in behind the beautiful black $350,000 Bentley Azure Convertible ... a yellow 911 Turbo bugging my tail ... ease passed the Lincoln Limo and the beat up Dodge Caravan full of Mexican maids. Then everything breaks clear, after the hour and a half battle through heavy traffic, all the way from Long Beach on the 405 Freeway North and the 10 Freeway West.

Sunset Point is big and REALLY crowded. Topanga Point is smaller, chest to shoulder high and super clear with a smaller crowd ... Finally the Boo.

Its going off ... dead low tide and firing! Cool gusty offshore and breaking all the way from the outside point to the pier on the overhead sets. Get lucky and find a parking spot by Jack in the Box ... its ten after 8 oclock.

At low tide you have to do the fifty yard rock hop through a slimy, slippery, ankle deep, mine field. Paddled out in the middle by the creek channel ... waited for a lull then made a sprint past first line of breakers and drifted into the lineup without getting wet.

Some really good surfers out there .. the shortboarders on the outside point just ripping sick overhead, sucking barrels. A Kelly Slater like guy inside of me on a Fish going up, around and over huge sections ... All you could see was his blue tail sliding, fins loose or floating across a mass of foam like a skateboarder on a rail!

Really crowded ... only got two killer waves all to myself in 3 hours but they were epic. Take off in the suckup, top turn, then go-go-go, flying high across the boomerang, duck as the lip peels over your head out onto the inside green shoulder, up and down then the wave sucks up again ... crouch in the barrel then out again, half way to the pier!

As the tide came in the overhead sets became more inconsistent so when they came through you had 5 guys taking off ... typically I had two guys in front of of me and no way can you pump up speed on your backhand to go round them.

11:15 AM ... caught a nice shoulder high inside wave all the way across and decided to call it a day, the wind starting to switch to light onshore and the swell dropping as the tide filled in.

The inside rock field now covered in water so caught the white water until the fins started hitting the bottom, put my hand down to stop, big mistake, punched an exposed rock with my right hand. The beach was full of cameras so suck it up ... smile now cry later.

Nurse, nurse it hurts:

Walk up the beach passed the local coffee clutch ... old guys with long white beards dressed in Vietnam cammies with worn sweatshirts sitting on directors chairs reminiscing of past days of glory.

Grab a steak and egg burrito and some coffee from JB's and jump into the car. My pinkie is now swollen black and blue and throbbing ... shit I think I broke my bloody finger! Realize I have a bottle of 750 Vike's in the glove box ... saved. Literally fly home ... making the 45 miles in 50 min's!

Modified: Thursday March 13 2008 06:00:09 PM
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