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Trip: The Pursuit of Perfection

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Thursday March 13 2008 05:35:34 PM

Date: from Mar 13, 2008 to Mar 13, 2008

Surf trip description:

Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Monica just before 8AM daylight savings time ... 8 miles to Malibu! Slip in behind the beautiful black $350,000 Bentley Azure Convertible ... a yellow 911 Turbo bugging my tail ... ease passed the Lincoln Limo and the beat up Dodge Caravan full of Mexican maids. Then everything breaks clear, after the hour and a half battle through heavy traffic, all the way from Long Beach on the 405 Freeway North and the 10 Freeway West. 
Sunset Point is big and REALLY crowded.  Topanga Point is smaller, chest to shoulder high and super clear with a smaller crowd ... Finally the Boo.
Its going off ... dead low tide and firing! Cool gusty offshore and breaking all the way from the outside point to the pier on the overhead sets. Get lucky and find a parking spot by Jack in the Box ... its ten after 8 oclock.
At low tide you have to do the fifty yard rock hop through a slimy, slippery, ankle deep, mine field. Paddled out in the middle by the creek channel ... waited for a lull then made a sprint past first line of breakers and drifted into the lineup without getting wet.
Some really good surfers out there .. the shortboarders on the outside point just ripping sick overhead, sucking barrels. A Kelly Slater like guy inside of me on a Fish going up, around and over huge sections ... All you could see was his blue tail sliding, fins loose or floating across a mass of foam like a skateboarder on a rail!
Really crowded ... only got two killer waves all to myself in 3 hours but they were epic.  Take off in the suckup, top turn, then go-go-go, flying high across the boomerang, duck as the lip peels over your head out onto the inside green shoulder, up and down then the wave sucks up again ... crouch in the barrel then out again, half way to the pier!
As the tide came in the overhead sets became more inconsistent so when they came through you had 5 guys taking off ... typically I had two guys in front of of me and no way can you pump up speed on your backhand to go round them. 
11:15 AM ... caught a nice shoulder high inside wave all the way across and decided to call it a day, the wind starting to switch to light onshore and the swell dropping as the tide filled in.
The inside rock field now covered in water so caught the white water until the fins started hitting the bottom, put my hand down to stop, big mistake, punched an exposed rock with my right hand. The beach was full of cameras so suck it up ... smile now cry later.
Nurse, nurse it hurts:
Walk up the beach passed the local coffee clutch ... old guys with long white beards dressed in Vietnam cammies with worn sweatshirts sitting on directors chairs reminiscing of past days of glory.
Grab a steak and egg burrito and some coffee from JB's and jump into the car. My pinkie is now swollen black and blue and throbbing ... shit I think I broke my bloody finger! Realize I have a bottle of 750 Vike's in the glove box ... saved. Literally fly home ... making the 45 miles in 50 min's!

Modified: Saturday March 22 2008 04:47:12 AM
Hits: 1491

Map of the trip

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Session: Nurse, nurse it hurts!

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Friday March 21 2008 04:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Blackies, United States of America

Surf Trip: The Pursuit of Perfection ( 13 March 2008 - 13 March 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: Lots

Length of the surf session: 120 min

Surfboard ridden: 9'2

Fins: 2 plus 1

Weather and water temp: 65F air 54F water

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks


How does a broken pinkie feel in 54F water after 2 hours ... nurse, nurse it hurts! Not a cloud in the sky, warm spring sunshine, light offshore Santa Ana's but only a small mix of NW windswell and SW groundswell combined with an 8AM, 5 feet 6 inch high tide. Local breaks were swamped ... welcome to Lake Mead. My mate and I parked his massive 8.1 liter V8 Chevy Silverado 2500 Crew Cab Long Bed Pickup ... loaded up my Solara and blasted down PCH to Newport Beach ... we had heard that Blackie's had been good on the high tide the previous morning. Yup it was waist to chest high, with soft fun peaks but CROWDED. What a zoo ... kids, girls and old guys. Got some nice lefts before the cold water really got to my broken finger. Cost my buddy a $38 parking ticket ... one of those tricky signs that gets everyone ... you know ... no parking between X and Y on the third full moon of each month!  

Rainbow Bridge: 

Follow up: Blackies has been good every morning this week while other spots have been junk.  Yesterday we had a waist to chest high mix of short period wind swell with sneaker shoulder high sets. This morning was the same but more crowded due to the Easter weekend. Unusual weather phenom also ... we had some dense fog roll in and as the morning sun burnt if off we had a beautiful thick rainbow (fogbow) from the line-up to the rock groin!  



Created: Thursday March 20 2008 02:18:35 AM

Modified: Saturday March 22 2008 04:47:12 AM

Hits: 1491

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