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Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010

Written by yann show yann profile

Wednesday August 25 2010 08:17:26 AM

Date: from Jul 30, 2010 to Aug 27, 2010

Surf trip description:
Here again, I went to Japan. We have prepared a trip in the best part of Japan for surfing: Shikoku. This area has the best rivermouth spots of Japan. It needs a typhoon swell to work.

Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:05:45 AM
Hits: 880

Map of the trip

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Session: Good Test

Written by yann show yann profile

Monday August 16 2010 11:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Shibagaki, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0"

Weather and water temp: Air: Sunny 30°C. Water: 28°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

I was back in Komatsu (Japan sea) after the Shikoku travel. A classic meteo situation occured: a WSW wind flow in the Japan sea passed off Komatsu but straight into Noto Hanto. No swell in Komatsu but will there be in Noto Hanto ?

We went by car in one hour only which was the first good surprise. I found at Shibagaki a fun beach break to surf. Nothing special but enoughto do the move. There are also 2 good reef breaks around and I will check them in my next trip.

The session confirms the good potentil of Japan: not as good as in France but there is enough to surf.

yb100816shibagakia yb100816shibagakib

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 29 2010 10:08:22 AM

Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:08:22 AM

Hits: 1743

Session: Better than expected

Written by yann show yann profile

Tuesday August 10 2010 09:49:16 AM

Surf spot: Uchizuma, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 0:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0"

Weather and water temp: Air: Sunny 30°C. Water: 28°C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

We were going up north to finish our traval in Shikoku. We passed on the road along a  "bad" spot of the area. But I was surprised to see this waves and I just jumped for few minutes to take some of them. (as my family was waitind, I just had few minutes).

In 15min I took 5 waves (a performance with 60 surfers on 2 peaks): as the swell was south, the spot was pretty good.

Note: there are some waves on the opposite island 

yb100810uchizumaIMG_0902 not bad isn't it ?

yb100810uchizumaIMG_0910 yb100810uchizumaIMG_0913

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM

Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM

Hits: 1949

Session: The Japanese Pipeline

Written by yann show yann profile

Tuesday August 10 2010 05:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Kaifu Rivermouth, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0

Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water: 27°C

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

Kaifu ! It's maybe the mos tfamous japanese spot. It's the rivermouth standard. On a big swell, it's a long hollow right. On a medium or small size, it's a slab on a sand/gravel bar. You have a 1.5m to 2m peak on a no more than 1m deep water: I have done several freefalls and I could stand up on the sand bar with the water at my hips...

There are a fierce competition here with very good / professionnal surfers in the water. Hopefully, the conditions were pretty mellow (for the standard here !!!) and we were only 3 at the beginning.

I took 10 waves but I surfed well only 4 of them. I didn't have this sensation since Tahiti: I didn't have the level to surf this spot well. The waves were too fast and too hollow for me. It was the first time I felt that my wonderful fish Maurice Cole was not the good board: too small and too wide... I felt I didn't have enough engagement. And it was just a bad day for locals!!!

It's just a wonderful incredible wave !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-nqMdwtY3g

yb100810kaifu0this peak of me shows how incredible is the wave. It's only a small swell, 1,20m, but with the wonderful sandbank and the rip, it turned into a hollow big and powerful wave, very hard to take. If you are a good surfer you can tube at nearly every wave.

yb100810kaifu (11) the spot

yb100810kaifu (13)

yb100810kaifu (12) a surfer from Osaka. Fierce at first then we started to talk.

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:48:41 AM

Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:23:42 AM

Hits: 2007

Session: Fun and peaky

Written by yann show yann profile

Monday August 9 2010 05:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Ozaki, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0"

Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water 27°C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Again Ozaki early in the morning but surfers are already there...

Waves were better than yesterdeay but this spot has nothing to be compared to Monobe.

yb100809ozaki (10) yb100809ozaki (11) yb100809ozaki (12)

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM

Hits: 1730

Session: Fun Beachbreak

Written by yann show yann profile

Sunday August 8 2010 04:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Ozaki, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0

Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water 27°C

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ordinary

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks

Description:

We stopped at Ozaki in a pension 200m from the spot (tokumasu pension). It's a beachbrea and it's crowded with surfers from Osaka. The beach is the same that thoses I have seen in Tahiti: black sand, green mountain fallen directly into the sea, peaky waves.

I was surprised: 20% are girls and they surfed better than me !!

yb100809ozaki (13) yb100808 (2) surfers slept into their cars during the week end

yb100808 (1) yb100808 (3) yb100808 (4)

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:04:06 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:06:26 AM

Hits: 1257

Session: I love rivermouth

Written by yann show yann profile

Sunday August 8 2010 08:40:22 AM

Surf spot: Monobegawakakou, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0

Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water 27°C

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

I knew Monobe was good. I didn't have any forecasts but I wake up at 4:45 and drive 30mn to Monobe. Will it be better than yesterday ? swell, no swell ? localism ?

When I arrived, it was A-Frame ! with already surfers in water. The left was better than yesterday. I started the session with only 2 surfers wich is incredible in Japan for this spot.

I took around 15 waves and because of the rip, I just surfed 1:15. What a session ! The morning lights with the tropical storms were amazing. The other surfers started to talk after 30mn (the regular asianobservation...)

Even if I will not surf more in Japan this year, I was very happy to have found this quality of waves.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WNOKaprMto

yb100808monobe (38)I didn't understood why they are waiting...

yb100808monobe (6) yb100808monobe (8)

yb100808monobe (13) yb100808monobe (14)

yb100808monobe (16) yb100808monobe (17)

yb100808monobe (24) yb100808monobe (25)yb100808monobe (26)

yb100808monobe (32)

 

 

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:51:12 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:56:40 AM

Hits: 1041

Session: First good surprise!

Written by yann show yann profile

Saturday August 7 2010 05:15:00 AM

Surf spot: Monobegawakakou, Japan

Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'0

Weather and water temp: AIR:30°C

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

I was visiting Japan since ten days mainly in the mountains of Shikoku, far from the shore, far from internet and the forecasts. It was the first day we were near the shore. We were driving to our hotel at the end of the day when I decided to see the very first spot on the road. I didn't even knew that Monobe was a major rivermouth spot of Japan. I didn't even knew where the wave was.

It situated at the end of the airport. I climbed on the jetty and, surprise, there were waves. Not good waves but punchy waves. No surfers. In fact, it was the beginning of the first typhoon swell of august.

I started to surf, a little afraid because of the very strong rip from the rivermouth. Why there was no surfer ? Waves were very hard to take, steepy, shallow, sand and boulders. Then some surfers appeared. I has been blocked underwater after a reentry : the wave is just powerful !

The landscape of mountains in the summer is incredible. After the session, I realized that this spot is a difficult and famous one and I was lucky to havesome waves here alone.

yb100808monobe (10) Whaou ! yb100807monobe (6) the spot

yb100807monobe (1) the left is short and punchy

yb100807monobe (2) yb100807monobe (3) the right is longer

yb100807monobe (4) yb100807monobe (5)the take off is hollow and hard because of the rip

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:20:17 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:05:45 AM

Hits: 880

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