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Trip: In the early morning rain ...

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Tuesday March 3 2009 08:40:05 PM

Date: from Mar 2, 2009 to Mar 3, 2009

Surf trip description:

In the early morning rain from Topanga Point, Malibu to The Hollywood Sign! Overcast sky with red and gold streaks to the East and dark clouds to the West. Light offshore breeze flowing down through the canyons and bringing a definite chill to the air.  


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPnLK1WnXxg

Kat 002BooTopanga 

Malibu looked crowded but had noticed Topanga looked just as good ... but only a couple of guys out. (Had come up from Long Beach just after sunrise nose to tail on PCH with a Bentley and MBZ SLK's dodging in and out of traffic like fish in a school.)

Back to Topanga, suited up and climbed down the enbankment with the Super Fish skirting the "green" lagoon of Topanga creek to a narrow strip of sand between the rock fields .

Dead low tide, so a 30 yard slippery rock dance to the surf line. Intermittent light rain 58 F air 54 F water. Wait for a lull and do the shallow "crab" paddle to deeper water then sprint to the line up. Only two guys out!

Two to three foot fast little peelers lining up off the point, breaking in waist deep water all the way inside to knee deep or less, with occasional boils of exposed rocks sticking out!

More of a 3rd Point Malibu fast short board wave. Guy on a 5'6" Quad Fish just ripping all the way down the line. Take off sideways, clear the first section and start pumping. Nothing radical or you will lose too much speed, plus stay high as you might find a dry rock sticking through the wave face! Kind of a following curl, snapping at your hells and the shallower it got the faster it broke, until it gobbled you up ... fall flat!

IMG_2404(1)

Bloody cold, longboader in a spring suit only lasted half an hour, the guy on the Quad wearing a 3/2 lasted an hour. I had it to myself, except for a cheeky brown Seal in the kelp bed giving me the evil eye, a couple of black diving ducks and (BUF's) brown pelicans bombing from altitude. 

Caught three or four fast walls before the crowd finally showed up! Got caught inside as a chest to shoulder high set came through, started to paddle outside hard but bang a really bad cramp in my left calf, forced me off off the board in agony to massage it. 

That was it packed it in, changed shivering and took off to see my daughter in the Hollywood Hills. Up Topanga Canyon all the way to the 101 South. Driving up the canyon shimmering in the rain saw a green Pagoda with a sign that said:

Tropical Fish

Sushi

Oh no ... visions of Marlon Brando "the horror" and Kevin Klein eating Kkkkken's Wanda!

DawnMist

 

Say hi to Ka Ka the Himalayan cat who just came from the cat beauty parlor in West Hollywood (ran by two black Drag Queens.) Go out to breakfast with Royale to Cafe 101 where they serve egg white and tofu Omelette's or Huevos Rancheros for $10 with no eggs.

Da RoyaleDrCKaKa

Then up the street to the Hollywood Sign. Road dead ends into a unpaved parking lot by a Horse Stables. Since my daughter screwed up her ankle I start to jog up the path alone ... that lasted about 10 seconds ... its really steep and I am panting. Run into a group of Swedes "Ya, luke at tha vilderness Ya" taking a picture with their hands in the air (holding up the Hollywood Sign) and two older lesbians who take my picture ... don't know why?) 

 HorsesHollywood1Hollywood2

Rain starting to get heavy ... run down the hill say goodbye and home.

 

 

 

Modified: Monday June 8 2009 06:50:33 PM
Hits: 1127

Map of the trip

This is an interactive map! Use controls to pan and zoom this map.

Session: Big Monday

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Wednesday June 17 2009 06:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America

Surf Trip: In the early morning rain ... ( 02 March 2009 - 03 March 2009)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: Lots

Length of the surf session: 180 min

Surfboard ridden: 9'0" Quad

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: 62F/58F

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Update: BIG MONDAY 6:30 AM DST "Ray Bay" San Gabriel river mouth, Seal Beach. No wind, glassy conditions and a big south swell pumping from 180 degrees. Its low tide and lines are breaking all the way from "Barracuda's" at the north break wall across middles, past "Crabs" at the south jetty. Sometimes the stars align perfectly, the 180 degree swell angle threading the needle past Santa Catalina island to allow a direct hit at Ray Bay while a few miles south its either walled out or 2-3 feet!

Breaking in three separate peaks and occasionally hooking up all the way. You had to get lucky and pick the right wave, you didn't make them all but the ones you did were the ones you remember! Strong rip currents sweeping you south and out to sea at Crabs and north into the breakwater and down river at Cuda's. Caught a big left at Cuda's and got stuck inside, had to let the white water and current pull me over to middles and paddle out from there.

My two best waves were a head high stand up barrel from middles across the low tide suck up at Crabs barely making it as the wave pounded the tail of my board knocking it sideways, and my last wave!

Even though I was riding my 9'0" Quad with a thruster set up, by 10 AM after three hours, was getting pretty tired. I decided to sit outside and wait for a big set for my taxi ride in.

Sat out there for a long time, nothing, starting to get really crowded (like 60 people stretched across the bay) the tide coming in the a sea breeze coming up. Had almost given up when I saw Deon, one of the SUP guys start stroking for the horizon. My patience paid off ... here they come, mountains rolling in!

Everyone scratching outside; paddled over the first three, each one bigger than the last, saw the SUP Deon start stroking into the shoulder of a monster. Paddled into position, up the feathering peak spun around and pushed over into a late takeoff. Took the drop, hard off the bottom, back up the face and snap off the top, just making it through a big section.

Flying down the line I saw two beginners floundering inside, one guy sitting with his back to the wave, oblivious to the 18 wheeler barreling down on him! Luckily the wave was big enough I was able to go up and over their heads. No idea what happened to them must have got really pounded. As I blew through the suck up I caught up to and was now drafting the SUP in front of me ... “Keep going” ... I yelled.

We cruised together across the wall with more beginners inside scattering inside like a school of fish in front of us. Still gliding along in the high line past the rocks at Crabs, he pulled out and I rode it all the way to the sand, almost to 2nd Street!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s48kuKLf0mE

Sunday 'Ray Bay': June Gloom, with light onshore. Waist to chest high SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms has dropped sea temps to 58F plus a cool 'Catalina Eddy' sea breeze means put away the spring suit for now! Steep take off on the peak at Middles work the boomerang across the wall then up the nose on the inside sandbar by Crabs.

Ray BayRBMay1

Don't put your feet on the bottom ... Mr Stingy and his buddy's are everywhere!

Stingy 

Gangrene from a Stingray hit:

"If the antibiotics don't work its got to come off"

 

 

Buddies:

Created: Saturday June 13 2009 07:47:12 PM

Modified: Saturday June 20 2009 04:24:00 AM

Hits: 1153

Session: Stormy Weather

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Sunday June 7 2009 01:39:26 AM

Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America

Surf Trip: In the early morning rain ... ( 02 March 2009 - 03 March 2009)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: Several

Length of the surf session: 120 min

Surfboard ridden: 9'0

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: 62F/59F

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Stormy Weather: June Gloom, dark early morning thunder storm clouds at Ray Bay and a strong SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms and chilly onshore 'Catalina Eddy' went right through my 2M wetsuit! Some peaky overhead bombs rolling through before the wind came up and the tide filled in. BIG take offs as the swell peaked on the sand bar and jacked up from refraction off the North breakwater at Cuda's.

martha_wainwright

Janis Joplin gets TORCHED by Martha Wainright!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=FR&hl=fr&v=LOzZ20q7QC8

KevinCuda

Started to get worried about possible lightning strikes as it started to sprinkle!

A woman was killed last week in Fontana as a bolt glanced off a tree. It blew her clothing 30 feet down the street!

Woman Killed By Lightning In Fontana

FONTANA, Calif. (AP) ―

A woman has been killed by lightning in San Bernardino County, hours after another person in the county was crushed by a wind-fallen tree during heavy thunderstorms.

Fontana police Sgt. Jeff Decker says the 35-year-old woman was struck by lightning Wednesday afternoon while standing near a tree in front of a home.

Decker told the San Bernardino Sun that the victim's name has not been released.

Earlier, a woman died when a tree crushed her vehicle as she drove in the San Bernardino Mountains during a thunderstorm.

Big Bear Lake fire officials say the large pine tree, rooted near the roadside, snapped about halfway up its trunk during strong winds 

 

 

 

Buddies:

Created: Sunday June 7 2009 01:59:34 AM

Modified: Monday June 8 2009 06:50:33 PM

Hits: 1127

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