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Surf session counter: 1
Monday August 9 2010 03:00:00 PM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: 30°C. Water 28°C
10 years ago, I have bought the japanese surf spots atals. As it was in japanese, I just saw the photos. I remarked a photo with no mention of a beautiful surf spot. It was a dream, the type of dream wich make you travel. I didn't even knew where it was...except it was a reef in Shikoku.
We passed at this reef this afternoon at low tide: there was no wave but I recognized the landscape. It was Takegashima ! We went to do snorkelling and the tideraised up. When I came back to quit the area, I saw a small wave with a surfer. I jumped in the water via the etrapods and surf it.
The surf was far than exceptionnal but as it's a reef, the wave really surfable. And the water was so clear. And the landscape was beautiful. And I was so far from home. I just enjoyed so much this session. The other guy was a japanese on a single. A fierce local. But after 30mn, as I kept a low profile, we started to speak. He explained me that the spot is usually totally crowded.
The wave got better with the rising tide. I had to come back.
Created: Thursday August 26 2010 01:15:19 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:33:25 AM