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Surf session counter: 73
Friday April 11 2014 03:20:40 AM
Created: Friday April 11 2014 03:21:07 AM
Modified: Friday April 11 2014 03:21:07 AM
Wednesday July 27 2011 11:00:00 AM
Read Tamarindo tubes
Created: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:18:32 AM
Modified: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:18:32 AM
Wednesday July 27 2011 06:00:00 AM
Read Tamarindo Tubes
Created: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:12:53 AM
Modified: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:12:53 AM
Tuesday July 26 2011 10:00:00 AM
More known for Lola the pig and bar than the waves. Was more crowded than Playa Grande and not as good!
See Tamarindo tubes Trip:
Created: Thursday August 11 2011 01:25:25 AM
Modified: Thursday August 11 2011 01:25:25 AM
Tuesday July 26 2011 06:00:00 AM
Read Tamarindo Tubes
Created: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:27:57 AM
Modified: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:27:57 AM
Tuesday July 26 2011 01:30:00 AM
Read Tamarindo Tubes
Created: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:23:24 AM
Modified: Tuesday August 2 2011 01:23:24 AM
Monday July 25 2011 06:00:00 AM
Point and shoot left handers.
See Tamarindo Tubes trip:
Created: Thursday August 11 2011 01:31:46 AM
Modified: Thursday August 11 2011 01:31:46 AM
Monday July 25 2011 01:00:00 AM
Think Santa Barbara Sand Spits or mini Puerto Escondito.
Read Tamarindo Tubes Trip
Created: Thursday August 11 2011 01:16:36 AM
Modified: Thursday August 11 2011 01:16:36 AM
Thursday July 21 2011 06:00:00 AM
Real work out, no easy way out. Big full wave, not that impressed. Place is bug capital of Costa Rica, in a way sketchy area. Go to Playa Grande ASAP.
Read Tamarindo Tubes Trip:
Created: Thursday August 11 2011 01:40:27 AM
Modified: Thursday August 11 2011 01:40:27 AM
Friday October 1 2010 07:00:00 AM
After surfing for 4 hours at Ray Bay on small fun peaks early Wednesday morning with the girls, drove down to Cardiff By The Sea, to Kansas City John's timeshare. We found a great local Mexican restaurant to eat, had Tomato Florentine soup, Fillet Million with Mahi Mahi, sautéed mushrooms and a baked potato for $25 ... Yum, Yum! Awoke at dawn to early morning rain. Drove down to Cardiff Reef. Clean 4-6 foot peaks way way outside. Kind a cross between C Street and Lowers with sand. You walk out on a sand bottom until the first line of white water then the bottom becomes flat rock. You take off left or right on a rock boil and its a clean throwing peak like Lowers, but the shoulder closes out on a sand bar. Pretty crowded. Let the locals have the overhead sets and snapped up half a dozen quality smaller peaks. After I came in stood in the rain, no showers, then out of nowhere, a bolt of lightning Zap hit the weather vane on the big house on the hill in the Surfiner shot, time to get the hell out of Dodge!
Created: Monday October 4 2010 08:59:06 PM
Modified: Monday October 4 2010 08:59:06 PM
Wednesday May 26 2010 07:30:00 AM
Created: Tuesday April 27 2010 01:04:07 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 27 2010 01:06:39 AM
Wednesday April 7 2010 07:30:00 AM
Update: Yesterday was classic! Combo shoulder high swells and stiff offshore Santa Ana's holding up the lip for some really great walls. Was sitting outside and picked off the wave of the morning, a clean head high peak.
Came off the bottom, carved off the top and set up three or four, big, lazy, climb and drops, coming down with the curl, the wind holding up the wall in front!
Easter Parade: Fun session early Easter Sunday morning, Northside Seal Pier. Dead low tide with a mix of fading NW and building S swells. Waist to shoulder with a few head high peaks on the sets, glassy conditions and only a handfull of guys out.
Caught a couple of really nice, fast movers! Barely made a good set wave on a late takeoff with a high line slide, the curl breaking on my chest forcing me down into the pit, but it backed off just enough to make the green before it started grinding again across the inside sand bar. I though to myself i'm going to make it you bitch, your not going to gobble me up, and as one of the young kids sitting inside said to his buddy "Shit he made it!"
Rabbit Stew with Red Wine:
Dredge rabbit pieces with 1/2 cup flour. Melt butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat; brown rabbit pieces on all sides. Add celery, onion, salt, pepper, bay leaf, 4 cups water, and a glass of Merlot; bring to the boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and simmer rabbit stew for 2 hours. Add carrots, potatoes, and mushrooms; cook for about 25 to 30 minutes longer, or until vegetables are tender. Combine 1/4 cup flour and 1/3 cup water; stir until well blended and smooth. Stir flour mixture into the broth; cook and stir until thickened. Rabbit stew recipe serves 4.
Easter Parade with Judy:
Created: Monday April 5 2010 02:20:44 AM
Modified: Sunday April 11 2010 03:11:03 AM
Friday January 22 2010 12:08:00 AM
8 AM after the big blow yesterday drove down to 54th Place on the Peninsular at Belmont Shore, Long Beach (inside the break wall and the back side of Seal Beach River Jetty). Cold offshore breeze with stormy chest to head high peaks breaking close to the shore in milky grey water.
54th Place LB 2010 Nice peak 54th Place LB 2005
The Professor came down to check it out but as he was still feeling a little "under the weather" gave it a pass. Suited up and paddled out, only a handful of guys out. Stiff shore break with a bite and a rip channel to get through. First wave was big set wave that broke like a mini pipe and got totally pounded.
54th Place LB 1997 54th Place LB 1997
Added to the fact that both the air and water temps were in the very low 50F's I
noticed that somehow tiny sharp pieces of gravel from the bottom had gotten into my booties and were trapped under my toes, so every time I popped up they felt like broken glass on my poor numb tootsies!
Only caught one decent set wave, took off got covered up then came off the lip into the washing machine, a boogie boarder got totally barreled on a late drop in. As the tide came in, the wind shifted to side shore and the swell also dropped so it was only a very small window.
Here is a utube video:
Created: Friday January 22 2010 12:24:41 AM
Modified: Friday January 22 2010 11:08:40 PM
Wednesday January 20 2010 07:45:00 AM
"Victory at Sea" conditions this morning after yesterdays bashing with more swell, rain and wind on the way! Huge dirty brown swells marching sideways down the coast driven by force 9 winds.
"A powerful storm that hit the Southern California coast this afternoon caused at least one tornado, four water spouts and winds of up to 80 mph, according to the National Weather Service.
“We have everything going today,” said the Weather Service spokesman Bill Hoffer.
Long Beach, Seal Beach, San Pedro and Huntington Beach were hit hardest by the fast-moving storm, which flooded streets, damaged homes, produced hail and ice and stranded cars on the 710 Freeway.
Witnesses reported seeing a tornado touch down in Sunset Beach and lift boats out of the water as it came onshore, sheriff’s officials said.
Sheriff’s deputies were responding to reports that a tornado or waterspout had touched down near Anderson Street and Pacific Coast Highway, lifting several catamarans 30 feet to 50 feet in the air, according to Orange County Sheriff’s Department spokesman Jim Amormino.
Scott Seaton, 60, is the manager of the Peter’s Landing marina. He said he was in the office with his wife when they got a computer warning that a tornado warning had been issued.
He said they watched out the window as the “cyclone,” as Seaton described it, came over their building and touched down in the marina. It stayed there for a while before moving down the marina, getting stronger.
At one point, Seaton said, it picked up a 40-foot sailing catamaran and twirled it several feet in the air. The catamaran dropped back into the water on top of another boat.
(More reports from Irvine, Long Beach, San Pedro, Huntington Beach, Newport Beach and Ventura County after the jump)
There was damage to that catamaran as well as a small whaler.
“It was just amazing watching that thing dance up in the air,” he said of the catamaran. “As quick as it came it was gone. I can’t even imagine seeing a monster one because this thing seemed so powerful,” Seaton said of the funnel cloud. “When it came it was just ‘boom.’ It was just unbelievable.”
Heavy rains caused a roof to collapse at Tropitone Furniture Co., at 5 Marconi in Irvine. Police said the company’s 115 employees evacuated the building. A woman who answered the phone at the company said no one was injured.
Hundreds of vehicles were stuck on the 710 Freeway in Long Beach this afternoon in rain-caused floods, authorities said. Firefighters responded this afternoon to the 710 Freeway between Ocean Boulevard and 6th Street, said Long Beach Fire Department Battalion Chief Frank Hayes, attempting to remove hundreds of vehicles that were floating in standing water.
Other rain-related flooding was reported throughout Long Beach, Hayes said, including several intersections that were blocked with floating vehicles.
The Los Angeles Police Department has called a tactical alert and is evacuating homes in San Pedro. The department has also shutdown an area between Pacific and Gaffey and 4th and 7th streets hit by the worst of the flood. Officials say a lightning strike hit the Conoco refinery, causing a small fire.
In Huntington Beach, the beaches were mostly empty while waves surged, lightning struck and wind reached gusts of 52 miles per hour. The gusts topped 72 mph in Newport Beach.
The storm was accompanied by rain, lightning, hail, ice and high waves. Officials are worried about mudslides in burn areas in L.A. and Orange counties as the new storm hit the mountain areas.
Piers along the Southern California coast were being closed today as huge waves surged onto beaches and harbors with a rainstorm that is expected to bring wind, thunder and lightning.
Ventura police closed the city's nearly 2,000-foot wooden pier this morning as a precaution; no damage was reported. But huge waves crashed near beachfront homes. "We're expecting some pretty big surf," said Sgt. Jack Richards.
Lifeguards also closed the Hermosa Beach Pier and were in the process of closing the Manhattan Beach pier, according to Los Angeles County lifeguards.
The National Weather Service issued an urban and small stream flood advisory for Los Angeles and Ventura counties.
A high surf advisory is in effect through Friday and the National Weather Service has issued a coastal flood watch starting tonight through late Wednesday, saying very large surf combined with strong wind is expected to push water into low-lying areas during high tide.
The largest waves will appear Wednesday and Thursday, when breakers could reach as high as 25 feet.
"The surf is very large," said Capt. Mike Patterson of the Los Angeles County Fire Department's Lifeguard Division, overlooking 15-foot waves at the Hermosa Beach pier, where gates were locked this morning. "It's another facet of the weather."
A second in a series of four storms is sweeping across Southern California today, prompting power outages and fears of mud flows in hillsides stripped of vegetation because of recent wildfires.
Rain should turn into heavy showers with thunder, lightning and gusty winds by this afternoon and evening, dumping between ¾ and 1 ½ inches, according to forecasters. The storm could bring hail and weak, isolated tornadoes inland and off the coast.
"It's a fast mover with gusty winds behind it, so it should be out of the area before midnight," said Stuart Seto, a weather specialist with the National Weather Service in Oxnard. Authorities are urging caution during the afternoon commute, when the brunt of today's storm is expected to hit. They are also warning people to stay inside during the lightning and thunder.
"If you hear it roar, go indoors," Seto said!"
Created: Wednesday January 20 2010 05:53:38 PM
Modified: Wednesday January 20 2010 06:04:22 PM
Sunday December 27 2009 08:00:00 AM
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all! Christmas Day dawned bright and sunny but chilly. Air temp at 8 AM was 42F water temp 54 F not cold to some but after a couple of hours I was so stiff could hardly turn. Surf was waist to chest with occasional head high sets and a light Santa Ana offshore. Kind of walled with a combo of Harvey Wallbanger pier bowls and some Sucide rights into the breakwall.
Created: Sunday December 27 2009 12:44:44 AM
Modified: Sunday December 27 2009 12:44:44 AM
Friday December 4 2009 07:30:00 AM
Ray Bay was small but clean this morning, pix coming, in the meantime enjoy:
Is it Safe?
Now you have all heard of Marathon Man how about Malathion Man?
A friend of mine (who's name shall remain anonymous) after having survived
his ex-wife slipping arsenic or something into the sugar, may have poisoned himself.
The said friend noticed some nasty bugs on his prized herbage, thought to spray them with Malathion, which did kill the bugs, however after smoking the leaves he now complains of diarrhea and stomach pains ... is it safe?
I remember the Paraquat Pot scare back in the day ... we actually sold it!
"During the late 1970s, a controversial program sponsored by the US Government sprayed Paraquat N,N′-dimethyl-4,4′-bipyridinium dichloride on Marijuana fields in Mexico. (Since much of this marijuana was subsequently smoked by Americans, the US government's "Paraquat Pot" program stirred much debate and was eventually banned.)
According to the Center for Disease Control, ingesting paraquat causes symptoms such as liver, lung, heart, and kidney failure within several days to several weeks that can lead to death up to 30 days after ingestion. Those who suffer large exposures are unlikely to survive. Chronic exposure can lead to lung damage, kidney failure, heart failure, and oesophageal strictures. Accidental deaths and suicides from paraquat ingestion are relatively common. For example, there have been 18 deaths in Australia from paraquat poisoning since 2000."
"Malathion is an organophosphate parasympathomimetic which binds irreversibly to cholinesterase. In the former USSR it was known as Carbophos, in New Zealand and Australia as Maldison and in South Africa as Mercaptothion.
Malathion was used in the 1980s in California to combat the Mediterranean Fruit Fly at the time there were reports of paint damage to automobiles in the sprayed areas. Malathion was also sprayed to combat West Nile virus. In the Fall of 1999 Long Island was sprayed with several pesticides, one of which was malathion. It was claimed that use of these pesticides caused a lobster die-off in Long Island Sound, however there is as of yet no conclusive evidence to support this. Malathion is also used in industrial solvents and cleaning compounds.
Malathion in low doses (0.5% preparations) is used as a treatment for head lice, body lice, and scabies. It is claimed to effectively kill both the eggs and the adult lice.
Malathion itself is of relatively low toxicity; however, absorption or ingestion into the human body readily results in its metabolism to malaoxon, which is substantially more toxic. Chronic exposure to low levels of malathion have been hypothesized to impair memory. Acute exposure to high levels of malathion will cause body-wide symptoms whose intensity will be dependent on the severity of exposure. Possible symptoms include skin and eye irritation, cramps, nausea, diarrhea, excessive sweating, seizures and even death. Most symptoms tend to resolve within several weeks."
Created: Friday December 4 2009 05:45:06 PM
Modified: Friday December 4 2009 05:45:06 PM
Thursday November 26 2009 07:30:00 AM
Happy Thanksgiving with the US Ski Team!
Update: Water is still warm for this time of the year, however that could change overnight, all you need is is a big NW upwelling and it could drop from 62F to 52F.
It is amazing how every degree under 60 F just feels so much colder!
Went out in the River at Ray Bay this morning with a couple from the US Ski Team enjoying the holiday break riding SUP's. The girl was short and stocky and had legs like a NFL running back, no wonder she loves Moguls! She pulled a Snowboard move as she paddled into a peak, instead of switching hands to sweep, she jumped around!
It was small and clean, but that is going to change this weekend, decent swell on its way!
Blackies with King Oscar
It's a beautiful morning in the neighborhood ... sunny and warm 72F air 64F water with a light offshore, but no swell, just ankle snappers and the water full of bait fish, you could smell the little buggers. King Oscar where are you. Caught a couple of little nose rides and the guys hanging out drinking coffee all came out!
Created: Monday November 16 2009 08:52:24 PM
Modified: Thursday November 26 2009 06:21:11 PM
Thursday November 12 2009 07:00:00 AM
Dead calm but a storm is coming!
Sunday: Went out at River (most of the coast was walled out). Patchy fog and light onshore, not very big or good ... plus crowded!
Tora Tora Tora or Bomb's away!
"All eyes remained focused on that Gulf of Alaska sytem that is now confirmed to bring us big NW swell over the next few days. Right now, that system is pumping up 35 foot plus seas from a distance of about 1300 nautical miles from SoCal (around 43N, 142W). With seas in its fetch of at least 36 feet, and periods in the ground-swell-long 16- to 18-second range, some powerful swell is being thrown towards the California coast.
But angled from 305-310°, this system is not as ideally placed for SoCal. Being a better angle for areas north of Pt. Conception, Northern and Central California could see face heights reaching 20-25 feet when this swell peaks. For SoCal though, where this angle has to wrap into the region and make it past island shadow size will be smaller -- but still significant. Saturday the 7th, the swell should fill in moving from north to south. Sunday the 8th should then be the full-impact day up to DOH in SoCal, with size slowly backing down Monday, more so though Tuesday the 10th into Wednesday the 11th (Veterans Day)."
Tell me about it! 7:30 AM Bolsa Chica State Beach, Station #20.
Big, chilly, nasty, low tide shifting peaks jacked up with backwash and exploding on the sandbar. Couple of broken boards. This one landed on my head and blew me up!
Thumped and concussed ... Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh.
Comment by the Professor:
That's quite a picture of Kevin. If I hadn't seen him out at river this morning, the appropriate caption would have been:
Never seen again ... no remains were ever found!
Witnesses say a porpoise - that appeared to be wearing a wetsuit - was seen cruising the surf line shortly after this picture was taken, and many believe that Kevin has been reincarnated."
Harbour Surfboards (50 years) Annual SurfDay. Bolsa Chica State Beach 11/07/09.
Created: Sunday November 8 2009 06:52:04 AM
Modified: Friday November 13 2009 12:21:58 AM
Saturday October 17 2009 07:00:00 AM
First rain of the year in SOCAL from a big low pressure system in the Gulf of Alaska, sliding down the coast bringing some overhead plus swells. Water in the river was a dirty black and full of trash getting washed down from the storm water drains. Of course I had to swallow some after getting pounded on the inside sand bar, hope I don't have to pay for it with Montezuma's Revenge!
Created: Saturday October 17 2009 03:37:03 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 20 2009 06:44:51 AM
Thursday October 8 2009 07:00:00 AM
Hello Pumpkin heads: Season of Mists or Season of the Witch? Past three days surf has been classic chest to head high Ray Bay on an incoming tide with a combo of NW/SW groundswells. Clean glassy conditions with a light offshore ... breaking from Cuda's off the North river jetty across Middles to Crabs on the South breakwall.
Created: Wednesday October 7 2009 08:29:30 PM
Modified: Friday October 9 2009 08:49:24 PM
Wednesday September 30 2009 07:00:00 AM
Update: Summer is on the wane and so are the South swells but the big Northwesters from the Gulf of Alaska are lining up! (9/27) A foggy morn in Sealie Town .... Don't know about nightingale's singing in Berkley Square but the Rivermouth was going off!
Chest to head high plus on a mid tide with a solid push from a combo of NW/SW groundswells. Clean glassy conditions with a slight offshore and patchy fog. A shortboarder had the leash pin ripped out of his board and Doc broke his 10' Auz EPS/Epoxy in half on the sandbar at Mullet Reef.
Pinkie picked up a monster peak and tucked up high under the lip! I sat a little inside and got a couple of smokers across the boomerang on the inside sandbar. The Professor suggested I should be listed as a registed 'surf offender' LOL.
"As I was getting dressed I saw you performing date-rape on a shoulder!
High, lovely and brutal. Slashing climbs and drops all over that poor
This morning it was less consistent, but got lucky and made a late take off on a pitching peak than ran into a steep wall all the way to Crabs!
Created: Monday September 28 2009 08:10:08 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 30 2009 08:24:10 PM
Wednesday September 9 2009 07:30:00 AM
Update: Sunset Beach, Bolsa Chica State Park, California. Drove past Seal Beach (looked pretty small) down PCH to Sunset Beach, home of Jesse James (the motor cycle guy, not the outlaw) and his wife, movie star Sandra Bullock (saw a big Lincoln Limo out front with a 90 year butler. Perfect conditions, warm water with light offshore and glassy, but small and inconsistant, only knee to waist but picked up a couple of nice nose rides. Fire is now 60% contained ... at one point it looked like it would knock out the TV towers serving Los Angeles on Mt. Wilson!
"The hazy lazy days of Summer are almost over but they are going out in a blaze. Huge wildfires in the the foothills and canyons of the San Gabriel and Sierra Nevada mountains are surrounding Los Angeles. Massive plumes of smoke are mixing with thunderheads from tropical storms south of the border (down Mexico way) and are towering up to 30,000 feet, billowing like Atomic Bomb mushrooms.
Conditions have been hot and humid with little or no wind for the dawn patrol and decent swell most of this week from Baja. You could smell the smoke at the beach!"
Created: Thursday September 3 2009 02:49:01 AM
Modified: Thursday September 10 2009 03:09:43 AM
Wednesday July 22 2009 05:00:00 PM
Leisure suit Larry recently deported from Thailand (but that's another story) came out with me the other morning at Ray Bay after having surfed such exotic Indo spots as "Cloud Nine". On his first wave in waist high junk he grabbed his board with his left hand as the wave closed out and not only bruised his forearm but tore his bicept! The Doctor said it may require surgery ... Mother Nature can be a MOTHER!
July 20th not too bad out at Baracudas. Glassy conditions with some clean shoulder high plus peaks from a SSE tropical storm swell off Mexico. Took out my 7'2" Super Fish for a change-up. Not very crowded just me, Uncle Tom and Pinkie plus a couple of girls ... until the summer hordes showed up at 9 AM! Thank goodness we had some thick fog roll in ... my eyelids were getting sunburned from out current sizzling heat wave!
Created: Tuesday July 21 2009 06:59:10 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 21 2009 07:10:25 PM
Friday July 10 2009 07:00:00 AM
Latest Update: July 9th, long period 190 degree southern hemi swell with chest to head high sets and glassy conditions combined with a minus low tide made for some real screamers from middles across Crabs! You only made a few all the way, you were really flying down the line! On my first wave barely made the takeoff then the fins started slipping sideways through the first section. Made it through that, no time for off the lips, just peeling too fast, got a cheater five up on nose for 50 yards before I got gobbled up! Wham, bam, thank you mam ...
Thursday morning last week, supposed to be poor to fair but some chest to shoulder high + sets coming in at Cuda's. Mostly green rollers on the high tide push with some morning sickness, but every now and then a gem!
Cuda's 7 AM Tuesday/Wednesday. The early morning haze burnt off by 8 AM and it must have been 75F already! No wind and glassy conditions until 10 AM when the normal summer light onshore sea breeze moved in. Knee to waist SW swell with a few chest high sets. Fade deep into the peak by the north sea wall then snap around on your backhand and run up the nose in the suckup on the inside sandbar or take off on the other side of the peak and pump through the middle of it then bounce off the lip as you come out on your forehand.
Only a few of us out there Deon with his inflatable SUP (when he lets the air out it comes out with a real bang, says it scares the shit out of all the dogs getting walked) Eric (Bongo Peterson) Uncle Jay and the lovely 16 year old Christine ... OK keep it clean boys. Note: Jay told me he saw Stuart (Bruce 11) at Bolsa Chica after escaping from custody last Monday ... walked over to his SUV and yelled "Hey Bruce" only to spot his wife Mary Kay ... he beat a hasty retreat!
Note Mr. Gangrene (from the Stingray hit) is going to be OK, he was going out for the first time in weeks ... his toe almost looks normal!
Created: Thursday July 2 2009 05:55:09 AM
Modified: Saturday July 11 2009 02:31:50 AM
Wednesday June 17 2009 06:30:00 AM
Update: BIG MONDAY 6:30 AM DST "Ray Bay" San Gabriel river mouth, Seal Beach. No wind, glassy conditions and a big south swell pumping from 180 degrees. Its low tide and lines are breaking all the way from "Barracuda's" at the north break wall across middles, past "Crabs" at the south jetty. Sometimes the stars align perfectly, the 180 degree swell angle threading the needle past Santa Catalina island to allow a direct hit at Ray Bay while a few miles south its either walled out or 2-3 feet!
Breaking in three separate peaks and occasionally hooking up all the way. You had to get lucky and pick the right wave, you didn't make them all but the ones you did were the ones you remember! Strong rip currents sweeping you south and out to sea at Crabs and north into the breakwater and down river at Cuda's. Caught a big left at Cuda's and got stuck inside, had to let the white water and current pull me over to middles and paddle out from there.
My two best waves were a head high stand up barrel from middles across the low tide suck up at Crabs barely making it as the wave pounded the tail of my board knocking it sideways, and my last wave!
Even though I was riding my 9'0" Quad with a thruster set up, by 10 AM after three hours, was getting pretty tired. I decided to sit outside and wait for a big set for my taxi ride in.
Sat out there for a long time, nothing, starting to get really crowded (like 60 people stretched across the bay) the tide coming in the a sea breeze coming up. Had almost given up when I saw Deon, one of the SUP guys start stroking for the horizon. My patience paid off ... here they come, mountains rolling in!
Everyone scratching outside; paddled over the first three, each one bigger than the last, saw the SUP Deon start stroking into the shoulder of a monster. Paddled into position, up the feathering peak spun around and pushed over into a late takeoff. Took the drop, hard off the bottom, back up the face and snap off the top, just making it through a big section.
Flying down the line I saw two beginners floundering inside, one guy sitting with his back to the wave, oblivious to the 18 wheeler barreling down on him! Luckily the wave was big enough I was able to go up and over their heads. No idea what happened to them must have got really pounded. As I blew through the suck up I caught up to and was now drafting the SUP in front of me ... “Keep going” ... I yelled.
We cruised together across the wall with more beginners inside scattering inside like a school of fish in front of us. Still gliding along in the high line past the rocks at Crabs, he pulled out and I rode it all the way to the sand, almost to 2nd Street!
Sunday 'Ray Bay': June Gloom, with light onshore. Waist to chest high SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms has dropped sea temps to 58F plus a cool 'Catalina Eddy' sea breeze means put away the spring suit for now! Steep take off on the peak at Middles work the boomerang across the wall then up the nose on the inside sandbar by Crabs.
Don't put your feet on the bottom ... Mr Stingy and his buddy's are everywhere!
Gangrene from a Stingray hit:
"If the antibiotics don't work its got to come off"
Created: Saturday June 13 2009 07:47:12 PM
Modified: Saturday June 20 2009 04:24:00 AM
Sunday June 7 2009 01:39:26 AM
Stormy Weather: June Gloom, dark early morning thunder storm clouds at Ray Bay and a strong SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms and chilly onshore 'Catalina Eddy' went right through my 2M wetsuit! Some peaky overhead bombs rolling through before the wind came up and the tide filled in. BIG take offs as the swell peaked on the sand bar and jacked up from refraction off the North breakwater at Cuda's.
Janis Joplin gets TORCHED by Martha Wainright!
Started to get worried about possible lightning strikes as it started to sprinkle!
A woman was killed last week in Fontana as a bolt glanced off a tree. It blew her clothing 30 feet down the street!
FONTANA, Calif. (AP) ―
A woman has been killed by lightning in San Bernardino County, hours after another person in the county was crushed by a wind-fallen tree during heavy thunderstorms.
Fontana police Sgt. Jeff Decker says the 35-year-old woman was struck by lightning Wednesday afternoon while standing near a tree in front of a home.
Decker told the San Bernardino Sun that the victim's name has not been released.
Earlier, a woman died when a tree crushed her vehicle as she drove in the San Bernardino Mountains during a thunderstorm.
Big Bear Lake fire officials say the large pine tree, rooted near the roadside, snapped about halfway up its trunk during strong winds
Created: Sunday June 7 2009 01:59:34 AM
Modified: Monday June 8 2009 06:50:33 PM
Wednesday May 27 2009 11:07:56 PM
Memorial Day: Fun session in the River. Early morning, waist to chest high with glassy conditions and an incoming tide, but super crowded due to the holiday weekend. Bunch of groms out there having fun (remember when a good session was standing up) even making up names for waves. I caught Bill and did a Kill Bill until my single 8" custom wooden pivot fin snapped clean off at the base! My Auz EPS/Epoxy 9'0" Quad has 5 Future Slots and the wood fin broke on the rear pin that holds it in and went deep six!
Paddle in no way why not go ... no fins! Short rides but slip sliding fun! Even catching a wave is a challenge as the board gyrates back and forth as you paddle. Once you take off its hard to keep the board moving across the face without sliding out by just using the down rail by the tail. Turning is a problem and it seemed that when I pressured right the board went left. As the waves hollowed out on the inside sand bar I found myself going backwards, tail first, almost pulled off a 360 but as soon as the white water hit the board skated out from under me (like standing on a Banana peel)! Stayed out over an hour riding without a fin to the amazement of the kids.
Created: Wednesday May 27 2009 11:45:22 PM
Modified: Thursday May 28 2009 06:46:03 PM
Saturday April 25 2009 07:30:00 AM
When its 'Springtime in LA' and 102F! Global warming indeed, last week we broke record temperatures in SOCAL. Perfect 'Blue Bird' conditions with morning light offshore's but guess what ... dead flat!
Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.
Thursday rode the Kingfisher with a Quad setup ... OK for the bigger waves, tracking through sections and stable noserides but don't like the arc turns. No pivot or thrust off the bottom. Friday set it up with just the 4.6" outside Future's and a 4" trailer, much better!
Saturday morning the swell was still running overhead on the sets with an incoming low tide making it a long, long paddle with lots of white water. Crossed up mix of 190 southern hemi and 300 NW with some lump, bump and cross chop from a light onshore. Took my 7'2” MR SuperFish so it was a bit of a struggle getting over to Cuda's by the north wall. Super crowded with everyone from beginners SUP's to shortboarders from the OC as Huntington Pier was walled out.
Some narly left handers into the breakwall that folded in on themselves while jacking up from refraction. Was sitting outside in perfect position when a huge set came rolling through. Paddled over to the middle and waited for the third monster peak. Got it, pushed over, hit the bottom and smacked out and up. Holding my breath, crouched deep in its belly as it reared over me. I could hear the crowd caught inside yelling to get my attention and not run them down!
All I could see in the corner of my eye was colors, black/white/yellow/blue as I flew by... like a running back in football running to daylight. Hit the shoulder with a sigh of relief and a gasp for air!
Fight or Flight:
Late one warm spring afternoon with a light southerly offshore breeze paddled out at Kirra Point, think 3rd point Malibu. It was mid week and not too crowded. Surf was a solid shoulder to overhead and breaking cleanly on the rock bottom out on the point before they built the groin. As the swell wrapped around inside it began to section and suck up as it hit the foot or so of water over the inside sand bar in front of the rocks. Kirra is an extremely hard breaking, fast wave that speed up faster and faster as it wraps and boomerangs - you need sky rockets up your but to make it all the way!
Was picking the smaller sets that lined up outside shooting down the line and kicking out as they hit the inside section to avoid getting caught in the nasty rip that sucks you north whenever its gets any size. Ready to go in I waited for a final big set. Here it came, took off, hit the bottom, turned fast, trimmed and crouched low as the lip came over my head. Oh, No too late to kick out, I was committed! Grabbed the rail staring at the nose of my board and the discolored water being sucked up from the sand bar. I hope I don’t hit a rock or I’m a goner! Normally when you get a cover up or tube its short and sweet, you can see the shoulder in front of you and its just a matter of making it or not.
On this wave I was already deep in the tube when a big section just closed right over me. There was no daylight just green sandy water. I guess the so called “fight or flight” survival reflex must have kicked in, time slowed down to a crawl. I stopped breathing, running on pure adrenaline, the roar of the wave became silent, my eyes focused into tunnel vision. Seems as I could even feel the sticky wax on my board as I shot like a shell down the barrel of a cannon. It seem to go on and on forever, my body making minute adjustments on auto pilot to keep the board on track suddenly I saw a small patch of light ... was I going to make it ... yes the hole opened up to a green shoulder but just for an instant ... then I saw another big section rearing up ... I power turned from the bottom at full speed out and over the top ... exhausted!
Fight or Flight:
“If a stimulus is perceived as a threat, an intense and prolonged discharge of the locus ceruleus activates the sympathetic division of the autonomic nervous system This activation is associated with specific physiological actions in the system, both directly and indirectly through the release of epinephrine (adrenaline) and to a lesser extent norepinephrine from the medulla of the adrenal glands. The release is triggered by acetylcholine released from preganglionic sympathetic nerves. The other major factor in the acute stress response is the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis.
When in the bloodstream, epinephrine rapidly prepares the body for action in emergency situations. The hormone boosts the supply of oxygen and glucose to the brain and muscles, while suppressing other non-emergency bodily processes (digestion in particular).It increases heart rate and stroke volume, dilates the pupils, and constricts arterioles in the skin and gastrointestinal tract while dilating arterioles in skeletal muscles. It elevates the blood sugar level by increasing catabolism of glycogen to glucose in the liver, and at the same time begins the breakdown of lipids in fat cells. Like some other stress hormones, epinephrine also has a suppressive effect on the immune system."
Acceleration of heart and lung action
Paling or flushing, or alternating between both
Inhibition of stomach and upper-intestinal action (digestion slows down or stops)
General effect on the sphincters of the body
Constriction of blood vessels in many parts of the body
Liberation of nutrients for muscular action
Dilation of blood vessels for muscles
Inhibition of Lacrimal gland (responsible for tear production) and salivation
Relaxation of bladder
Evacuation of colon
Inhibition of erection
Auditory Exclusion (loss of hearing)
Tunnel Vision (loss of peripheral vision)
Acceleration of instantaneous reflexes
Created: Saturday April 25 2009 06:37:18 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 01:44:59 AM
Monday April 6 2009 08:00:00 AM
April come she will and "Spring Break" has sprung! The Cherry trees are in full bloom back East and the warm California sun was shinning on a picture perfect day at Ray Bay.
Loveliest of trees, the cherry now
Is hung with bloom along the bough,
And stands about the woodland ride
Wearing white for Eastertide.
Now, of my three score years and ten,
Twenty will not come again,
And take from seventy springs a score,
It only leaves me fifty more.
And since to look at things in bloom
Fifty springs are little room,
About the woodlands I will go
To see the cherry hung with snow.
AE Housman (1859 - 1936)
Just crusing along Slip sliding away!
Created: Tuesday April 7 2009 06:38:12 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 7 2009 06:41:13 AM
Sunday April 5 2009 07:30:00 AM
This morning we actually had some decent waves. Started out a little slow with the early morning high tide but picked up and conditions stayed clean. Warm and sunny with a mix of NW and Southern Hemi ground swells in the water and light off-shore breeze.
When the Pier gets really good the swells all merge into big peaks that refract off the breakwall into what we call "Harvey Wall Bangers". The wave suddenly jumps up to one and a half times its size like "The Wedge" at Newport ... you free fall down the face and if you make the drop, your in a cannon barrel churning over the shallow inside sand bar!
Picked off three good one each one better than the last! The creme de la creme was a big overhead wall that came grinding through. Took off way deep by the sea wall, with the peak feathering over my head, top turned and started pumping like crazy in a half crouch. The wave was totally walled out in front and grinding over me but my board was just flying and skipping, it was going so fast. I made it across the inside sandbar to the shore break banked off the top and fell down the face on to my side. Don't know if it was the speed or the height but it hurt like a sonofabitch. Knocked the wind right out of me. Came up gasping like a fish. Everyone was hooting and hollering but all I could do was give a thumbs up!
(Was riding my new Auz EPS/Epoxy Quad using the two outer 4.6" Future's with a 4" trailer. One thing you notice, it top turns much better than a regular longboard and holds the highline speed track. The photo above is my old 9'2" Jean Luc 2+1 and you can see the low slow position.)
Pour vodka and orange juice into a collins glass over ice cubes and stir. Float galliano on top and serve with a sprig of mint and lemon peel.
Created: Monday April 6 2009 12:33:59 AM
Modified: Monday April 6 2009 12:34:40 AM
Wednesday April 1 2009 07:03:00 AM
This shot was taken this morning (from a distance) inside the breakwater at low tide. Was riding my new EPS/Epoxy 9'0" x 23" x 18" x 15" x 3" swallow tailed 'Kingfisher' quad. Waves were pretty clean, waist to chest with shoulder plus sets. Dead low tide over at Barracuda's by the North wall of the breakwater and kind of closing out but if you picked the right wave it was fast and fun.
Was riding with the 2 X 4.6" outside Future fins and a single 4" trailer. The 4" is actually one of the inside quad fins and is slightly foiled however usually you can not tell the difference, this morning however it was fast enough to make the fin hum.
You can see how much you can lay the rail in with this hybrid versus a regular longboard!
Created: Wednesday April 1 2009 06:52:13 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 1 2009 06:52:13 AM
Saturday February 21 2009 08:00:00 AM
The Kookaburra sits in the old Gum Tree ...
7AM Picked up my new custom shaped EPS/Epoxy Kingfisher 9' 0" X 23" X 3" X 18" X 15" Swallow tail Quad. Waxed up with wax softened by my Solara's heater, peeled on the 4/3 Cell and paddled out at Ray Bay. No too crowded yet and Tony was taking pix. Kind of soft and full with the early morning high tide but clean and glassy with some nice shoulder high sets every now and then.
Kookaburra (King of the Kingfishers)!
First thing you notice with the EPS/Epoxy is even with 2X6 oz deck and 1X6 oz bottom is its lack of weight. Flotation is amazing, could almost knee paddle it. The board feels more lively yet more rigid than polyurethane foam, makes a tinkling sound as it slaps the water. How does it ride, excellent, no quirks. Paddles and catches waves like a board 6 inches longer. You can run it out in front of a peak lay it on a rail and snap it back off the top. Extremely stable, forgiving platform, even with slight double concaves under the fins. The extra width and the hard down rails by the wing and swallow grip and track through foam without even a bump or loss of speed. The concave nose allows you to push through fat sections from up front. Only thing did find it felt a little stiff, which I am sure can be fixed by playing with the fin set up (after all it has 5 slots) plus I have been riding my MR design 7'2" SuperFish the past couple of weeks.
Created: Sunday February 22 2009 12:56:01 AM
Modified: Sunday February 22 2009 10:06:24 PM
Thursday February 12 2009 12:08:00 AM
After a week of La Niña storms and pouring rain followed by gale force winds (thought the big California Palm trees would come crashing down all over) surf was "Victory at Sea" until the last couple of days.
With apology to Donovan:
Blue's the colour of the sky
In the mornin' when I ride,
In the mornin' when I ride.
That's the time, that's the time
I love the best.
Brown's the colour of the angry sea
In the mornin' when I ride,
In the mornin' when I ride.
That's the time, that's the time
I love the best.
Anyway Blackies at Newport Beach was the ticket the past couple of mornings. Yesterday was a solid chest to shoulder high with overhead sets even on the deep early morning high tide. Today was cleaner (not the water) but smaller and super crowded. With the shifting peak you just had to be lucky to be in the right spot. Late steep take-offs for a quick cover up then blasted out onto a fat shoulder that sucked up on the inside sandbar! (By the way I will let you know if I develop Super Powers due to the toxic runoff!)
Under the LIP! Now that's what I call VERTICAL!
Created: Thursday February 12 2009 12:49:45 AM
Modified: Thursday February 12 2009 03:21:46 AM
Sunday February 8 2009 08:00:00 AM
Glassy conditions this morning Northside Seal Pier at 8 AM with light rain and a light cross shore. Swell was inconsistent chest to shoulder on the sets with some shore break backwash from a deep early morning high tide of almost 7 feet (some minor flooding on PCH by Sunset Beach). Only a couple of us out there "Singing in the Rain". A couple of heavy squalls from an offshore thunderstorm then patchy blue sky and a rainbow. Started to get better as the tide went out but the side shore SE wind started to pick up. Caught a 100 yard bomb off the sea wall, late takeoff, ducked under the lip and pumped the Super Fish hard down the line through the backwash to almost dry sand!
Big Seal December 2005
Created: Sunday February 8 2009 02:28:29 AM
Modified: Sunday February 8 2009 02:31:21 AM
Saturday January 31 2009 02:14:26 AM
9 AM Blackies Newport Beach, water was a cool 58 F but the air was sunny and warm, 80 F by noon, not a cloud in the blue sky. Indian Summer in Southern California! Offshore Santa Ana wind blowing from the desert through the mountain canyons to the sea.
Surf was small but fun with lots of 'birds' winged and otherwise to look at!
Created: Saturday January 31 2009 03:46:42 AM
Modified: Saturday January 31 2009 05:13:40 AM
Tuesday November 18 2008 01:25:56 AM
The "Wind in the Willows" indeed. The past few days we have had a fire-storm in Southern California fanned by howling offshore Santa Sana winds blowing from the deserts and funneled through the mountain passes and canyons.
"Winds had calmed Monday morning, allowing firefighters to make gains on two raging wildfires that destroyed hundreds of homes and forced thousands of residents to flee. Wind gusts had peaked at more than 70 MPH at the height of the fires over the weekend, but on Sunday they had weakened to about 25 mph, the National Weather Service said. The fires that started Thursday night and burned in Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Orange, San Bernardino and Riverside counties, have burned nearly 41,000 acres or 64 square miles. A major aerial attack on Sunday raised containment to 40 percent. More than 26,000 people had evacuated from Orange County alone.
Meanwhile, a 10,000-acre fire that hit hard in the Sylmar area of northern Los Angeles on Saturday had moved into the Placerita Canyon area of the rugged San Gabriel Mountains and was still burning vigorously, but well away from homes. It was also 40 percent contained. The Santa Barbara-area fire that swept through tony Montecito has burned 1,940 acres and was 95 percent surrounded Monday.
Far away from the flames, the smell of smoke pervaded metropolitan Los Angeles. Downtown skyscrapers were silhouettes in an opaque sky. Ash fell like rain at the beach and concerns about air quality kept many people indoors. Organizers on Sunday canceled a marathon in suburban Pasadena where 8,000 runners had planned to participate.
Officials warned of another bad air day on Monday, and classes were canceled at dozens of schools near the fire zones in Orange County."
Went out at Bolsa Chica Saturday, wind was just howling offshore with a curtain of blowing spray. Combined with an incoming massive 7 foot high tide conditions were sketchy to say the least! You had to paddle like crazy, take off deep and critical then the backwash jumped up the face into a vertical drop!
Got a couple of nice tubes with the wind holding the door open to blue sky, or should I say, red sky. On one backhander looked out and saw yellow sand. I had ran out of ocean. Aaaaaaaaaaaagh!
Caught a big outside peak, faded into it, then hard off the bottom staying low out of the wind and got bounced across the side chop on the face like a Model T-Ford on a dirt road!
This morning the wind was gone but the tide was still huge. Caught a couple of nice solid left hand peaks, critical take-off then pump hard as the backwash jacked up the wall. On my last wave got a nice nose ride on my forehand (without blowing it) been riding backhand all summer at 'The River' backpeddled, then stalled the tail as the wave held up all the way to the sand. Stood right on the back of the board, leaned back, pushed the nose up out of the water, took the drop and rode the board fin dragging all the way up the tide surge to the dry sand then stepped off ... I was impressed ... but a young girl on the beach just looked at me like I was nuts!
Created: Tuesday November 18 2008 01:47:58 AM
Modified: Tuesday November 18 2008 06:33:12 PM
Saturday November 8 2008 03:17:57 AM
Indian summer is a name given to a period of warm dry sunny weather in autumn or winter. Usually occurring after the first frost. Indian summer can be as early as September or as late as January in the northern hemisphere. It can persist for a few days or extend to a week or so.
The term is also used metaphorically to refer to a late blooming of something, often unexpectedly, or after it has lost relevance. This is comparable to the use of the term renaissance in the sense of "revival" but it carries the added connotation that the revival is temporary. It may also be so named because this was the traditional period during which the early Native Americans harvested their crops of squash and corn.
It is usually associated with the Santa Ana winds (also known as Santana winds) which are strong, extremely dry offshore winds that characteristically sweep through the canyons and passes of the Sierra Nevada mountains into Southern California and northern Baja California in late fall into winter. They can range from hot to cold, depending on the prevailing temperatures in the source regions, the Great Basin and upper Mojave Desert. However, the winds are remembered most for the hot dry weather they bring in the fall and winter often fanning huge wildfires.
Today was one of those champagne days of Indian Summer. Perfect conditions, warm dry light offshore's ... 85F air and 65F water! Surf was small, only knee to waist but super clean with some fast little snappers across the sandbar at low tide!
Created: Saturday November 8 2008 03:55:31 AM
Modified: Saturday November 8 2008 04:04:41 AM
Thursday October 23 2008 10:29:26 PM
Picture postcard perfect! Just like the cover of 'Surfer Magazine'. Dawn broke over 'Ray Bay' on a clear warm Indian Summer morning in October. Light warm Santa Ana offshore breeze blowing out the mountain passes from the desert to the sea.
Clear clean blue green 62 F water with Dolphins and Seals chasing schools of Mullet. Picture perfect waist to chest with the occasional shoulder high sets rolling through from the North wall at 'Barracuda's' across 'Middles' to 'Crabs' by the South Jetty.
At 7AM only three of us out at Cuda's! Take off deep in the peak with a long drop out in front of the wave then power off the bottom up into the lip and smack off the top.
Amazingly it broke all the way through high tide and got more consistent and hollower, although not quite a big. By 9AM started to get crowded. Nina a little Asian girl took off in front of me on a set wave and went straight, almost made it around her but the wave gobbled me up!
Quite a change from the spooky dense fog that has plagued the dawn patrol all week. When 'lie-line' Surfline says is 3-4' and good its bad when they say its 1-2' and poor its 3-4' and good!
Created: Thursday October 23 2008 11:01:56 PM
Modified: Thursday October 23 2008 11:21:21 PM
Tuesday October 7 2008 06:30:00 AM
"Long distance information
give me Memphis Tennessee.
Help me, information,
get in touch with my Marie."
Hurricane Marie (that is) hovered off Mexico's Pacific coast Saturday, barely moving on its northwestern path. Originally a tropical storm off the Mexican resort city of Acapulco it strengthen into a hurricane Sunday, according to the National Hurricane Center in Miami. Marie, the sixth hurricane of the eastern Pacific season was located about 200 miles (325 kilometers) south of Acapulco and was expected to remain off the coast as it drifts west. Marie was centered 845 miles (1,365 kilometers) southwest of the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula. It was moving north at 2 mph (4 kph) and was forecast to turn west and head farther away from land.
Sunday morning 6:30 AM the 'Ray Bay Surf Club' was in the river parking lot in full force: River Bob (the professor) Tony & Rick, Surfer Tom, Uncle Jay, Gary, Marcus, Mike (Pinkie) the fisherman, myself (Bruce) and not to forget the gorgeous Andrea (named after the famous California San Andreas Fault, as she said "It's always my fault".)
Thank's to Marie, Ray Bay was going off! Chest to shoulder high with the occasional head high peak. All the way from Barracuda's by the north wall, across middles, to Crabs by the south jetty. As I paddled out on my 9'2" performance longboard, Surfer Tom came sliding across a nice one, the curl snapping across his shoulders. Surfed middles and moved over to Cuda's as the tide came in. Caught a couple of face high left hand 'bombs' into the breakwall, then back over to Crabs for almost a four hour session ... then had to go to work at noon!
Back out this morning (monday) with Stuart (Bruce 11) for another four hours, this time riding my 7'2" SuperFish. Not quite as big but really clean and fun! Pinkie got another one of his trademark head-dips in the curl, Bruce took off his usual way, deep, deep, deep and pumped his way all the way across. Uncle Jay got a nice cheater five on his 4" thick hand made special, the "Rubber Ducky". Gary watched me take off deep, on a nice shoulder high peak with a young kid, faked left, lost him, slid my back foot onto the tail and snapped it up and down hard, all the way across Crabs. Gary said "Did you say you were sorry ... yeah sorry but I got the wave!"
Don't know if I can make it out tomorrow, I'm worn out, beat up and the inside of my knees were bleeding (ouch) ... Bruce had real bad nipple rash!
9'2" Jean-Luc 2+1 Longboard: Ouch:
7'2" Jean-Luc SuperFish:
Created: Tuesday October 7 2008 05:04:21 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 8 2008 01:08:28 AM
Thursday September 18 2008 06:30:00 AM
I see we have jumped a hundred years forward? Anyway good swell all this week! The river was chest to shoulder high + this morning, 6:30AM-9:30AM. Clean, glassy conditions with some nice peaks over by the north wall at Baracudas. Take off deep, run out in front of the wave, then pull a hard bottom turn followed by a backhand snap off the lip, then work the shoulder all the way across Middles to the south wall at Crabs.
Wednesday: Wave of the day: River Bob took off deep on a shoulder high peak, got a cover up and a nice wall all the way across to Crabs.
Thursday: Wave's of the day: Fisherman Mike's head dip deep inside the curl. My steep head high peak, hard, deep, backand bottom turn, smack the lip, line up the bowl, hard off the bottom and smack the lip again, blast out on to the shoulder with the wave breaking on my shoulder, hard cut back ... and fell off ... oh well!
Friday my nose ride across Crabs: (Photo by Tom)
Saturday: Clean conditions with fast glassy walls from Middles to Crabs. Nose ride on a small snapper all the way across Crabs and then stepped right on a Stingray's back ... good luck it did not wack me!
Saturday ... almost the same shot ... notice the hair cut! (Photo by Tom)
Created: Wednesday September 17 2008 09:57:20 PM
Modified: Monday September 22 2008 06:34:37 AM
Friday September 12 2008 12:06:30 AM
The river was chest to shoulder high with occasional bigger sets this morning, 6:30AM-9:30AM. Started off at Middles then moved over to the north wall at Baracudas. Clean, glassy conditions with some nice peaks. Take off deep, run out in front of the wave, then pull a hard bottom turn followed by a backhand snap off the lip then work the shoulder all the way across Middles to the south wall at Crabs.
Created: Wednesday September 10 2008 08:25:10 PM
Modified: Thursday September 11 2008 05:01:37 AM
Thursday September 4 2008 12:49:14 AM
Finally some good waves! Dawn patrol "Ray Bay" San Gabriel Rivermouth, Los Alamitos Bay, Seal Beach. Perfect conditions, after week's of onshore, South 'Catalina Eddy' wind and knee high crumble. Early morning negative, building to a five foot plus late morning high tide and smooth glassy conditions. A mix of fading NW windswelll and building S/SSE groundswell from Chile with bigger southern hemi, coming up from Pitcairn, peaking Thursday plus new swell from New Zealand still in the forecast!
The river was chest to shoulder high with occasional bigger sets on the the tide push. At low tide we had 'point break' lines coming in from the 'Middle's' across 'Crabs'. A little walled with sections but pick the right wave and fun, fun, fun. As the tide came in the break moved over to the north wall at 'Baracuda's' and got bigger and better!
Wave of the morning: Mark Burke's rail grabbing, back-door peak, tube.
For about an hour it was going off! Head high peaks ... long rights across the bowl or snappy short left-handers. Got worked on a big left peak. Took off deep in the bowl, came up and out off the bottom as the lip peeled over, then the backwash and refraction off the breakwater pushed the wave back into itself! It jumped up to a couple of feet overhead and the wall vanished into a square box! I started free falling down the sheer face, then it concussed, boom, on back of my board (thought it was going to break in half). Just swatted my board like a bug and blew me up ... I had my wetsuit top pulled down to my waist and I finished up nose down, with my wetsuit around my knee's and my bare butt sticking up in the soup!
Wednesday morning update:
This morning we had plenty of size from building SE/SW southern hemi swells but no NW to cross it up, so pretty walled out. If you picked the right wave it was "Speed Racer" all the way!
The fog was a big problem, it rolled in so thick, at one point you could barely see the end of your board! I was out at Cuda's by the north wall when visibility vanished. Got totally disorientated, drifted over to the middle of the river mouth and started paddling the wrong way, out to sea! If I had come across another lone surfer with a better sense of direction, I would have finished up in the shipping lanes!
After that nasty shake-up, paddled inside, caught a set wave across and stayed in the pack at Crab's by the south breakwall! Fog never did lift while I was out there, even past 9 AM. You still could not see the breakwall, as I quickly found out. Hooked up on a nice shoulder high screamer across the inside sandbar on my 7'2" Super Fish. Steep take off, couple of quick pumps across the walll and it started to tube, crouched down and grabbed the outside rail ... just grinding; then I saw a dark shape rushing at me, holy shit ... the rocks ... BAIL OUT!
Wave of the morning: Surfer Tom's high line, high speed, wall.
Thursday Morning update:
Clean, clean, clean but smaller and really crowded! Some nice nose ride's across the inside sandbar by Crab's. Photo thanx to Tom.
Check out them "Hot Legs"
Created: Wednesday September 3 2008 01:38:13 AM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 07:04:30 PM
Friday August 22 2008 02:09:57 AM
4:30 AM the alarm goes off ... knock it off the nightstand... it goes off again, pick it up and drop it on the floor, finally turn it off but Destruct'o my daughters 15 pound Himalayan is now awake, jumps up on the bed and sticks its paw in my ear ... wake up! OK feed the cat, get ready, open the door to put my JL Super Fish outside ... and the cat bolts ... now I have to chase her down. Finally load the Solara.
Head down 7th Street, CD blasting a Marty Robbins cowboy lament, to the 405 Freeway south on-ramp, by Cal State University, Long Beach but first have to find a gas station that's open ... good 7-11 ... get gas and a cup of coffee ... big mistake.
No traffic, keeping it under 80 MPH watching for CHP. Zip- Irvine, Zip-Mission-Viejo, Zip-Laguna Niguel, Zip- San Juan Capistrano, Zip-San Clemente now San Onofre, Cristianitos Road turn-off coming up. Fifty miles in 45 minutes, not bad.
Its not quite 6AM, sky is still dark purple and already there is a line of cars. Kids with boards under their arm riding bikes, skateboards and even an electric scooter. Start the long trek down the path to Trestles.
Half way down the hill the 7-11 coffee strikes ... Oh no, got to go, bad. Run behind some bushes, scaring a cottontail and squat, right on a prickle, ouch, then pee in my shoe, lovely! Cross under the railroad trestle by San Mateo Creek, couple of Egrets fly overhead, laughing.
'Uppers' looks pretty good, not too crowded, 3-4 foot, low tide with clean glassy conditions. I want to surf 'Lowers' so I plod the extra half a mile down the beach in the hard sand by the waters edge. Boy look at all those Pelicans out in the break, wait a minute, there not birds, there people, can't be ... yes, must be close to 30 guys out, and its only first light!
'Lowers' is a world class, perfect a-frame reef break. Sand and cobble-stone bottom with some seaweed. The peak is so clean and easy, its like a blank sheet of paper, you can draw anything on it.
It's waist to chest with occasional head high sets. Clean, paper thin, hollow lefts and rights. There are no long boards out there and the surfers are good, very good and very, very good! Guys taking off deep in the peak, come flying off the bottom into a snap 360, or blasting out of the tube into another 360 or a front-side air!
Paddle outside with an older guy and a board builder from Puerto Rico, who just got back from surfing 10 foot Tavarua with Sonny Garcia, he is over here looking for a computer cad shaping machine. My 7'2" Super Fish can out paddle their 5'6" Thrusters and actually snag some sick waves! The lefts were steeper with a following curl, but the rights were longer and had a nice inside wall. I surf my forehand better on my 9'2" so I was mostly going right. You take off right in the suck up in the middle of the peak, its a fast, steep hollow take off and you need lots of speed.
When everyone out there is so good you make sure you bring your 'A' game, don't mess up and work every wave, hard. About 8:30 AM the crowd thinned and with the tide push it got a little bigger, but still inconsistent. Even though each peak handles two guys, there is only one take off spot, so its a lot of paddle positioning work and the water was quite chilly, probably low 60's. I lasted until around 9:30 AM when the sun finally came out. Cold and dead beat limped up the hill (got a blister on my heal from sand in my sneaker) made good time back home ... took a shower and passed out ... to tired for breakfast!
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 02:30:59 AM
Modified: Friday August 22 2008 03:43:09 PM
Sunday August 10 2008 07:18:14 PM
"Another Pleasant Valley Sunday" (morning) in the river that is. Small background southern hemi ground swell, a touch of NW wind swell, plus some energy from Hurricane Hernan, a Cat-3 storm with winds topping out over 115 mph (185 kph) late Sunday night.
The U.S. National Hurricane Center in Miami said Hernan was located off Mexico's western coast, about 1,065 miles (1,715 kilometers) west-southwest of the tip of the Baja California peninsula, moving northward and further out to sea.
Some fun chest high waves out there this morning from 6AM to 9AM, before the wind came up and the crowd came out ... where were you Kelly C.?
Could be good tomorrow morning!
Created: Sunday August 10 2008 07:45:01 PM
Modified: Sunday August 10 2008 07:47:20 PM
Tuesday July 29 2008 11:02:36 PM
Hey, Hey, don't wake up Mr. Ray!
Water temps are starting to warm up, aided by the two power stations up river pumping out hot water as residents turn on their air-conditioners. The summer Stingray breeding season is in full swing and the little buggers are all over the bottom of the San Gabriel river mouth in Seal Beach's "Ray Bay " the largest concentration in SOCAL!
Have been wacked three times, (first time is the worst, but they all hurt BAD). First time the barb went in the arch of my naked foot a full three inches.
Aaaaaaaaaaagh! Were talking emergency center!
Second time hot hit in the ankle paddling out, through a booty. Last time was not as bad went through the bottom of the booty, only had to sit in the bucket half an hour.
Anyway some clean little waves this morning, not too much rip current and only a few of us out with an occasional big set breaking in the center bowl. Drew a little blood from my buddy ... he was caught inside as I was barreling down the line, up high and on the nose ... thought I had made it past him when my nose pearled and my board flew back and clipped his cheek. Last week he got a black eye when he smacked his board with his head coming off a re-entry, poor guy his wife is a real witch and keeps him on a short leash.
Surf trip planned for Wednesday, 4 AM drive to Secos Point, just past Malibu, forecast is 3-5 feet with occasional overhead sets, then on up the coast to the Dallas Cowboys training camp in Oxnard to watch the 9 AM -11 AM practice. Don't worry will say Gidday to the cheerleaders for ya all!
Update read: Secos and Jessica Simpson
Went again out this morning in the river. From 6:30 AM to 8 AM it was going off! Chest to shoulder with overhead sets ... long green walls from the center peak all the way (almost 100 yards) across Crabs, before the south wind came up, the tide came in and half of Orange County came out!
Riding my 9'2" Jean-Luc Roberts, scored some nice clean walls, take off in the suck up, duck through the lip across the bowl, work the lip backside, up and down, hold the high line as the wave hits the inside sand bar ... then tip time!
Created: Monday July 28 2008 11:43:12 PM
Modified: Thursday July 31 2008 09:29:01 PM
Tuesday July 22 2008 10:31:23 PM
A mix of big southern hemi S ground swell with just a trace of fading NW wind swell and a slight, but building SSE swell from Hurricane Fausto! Super clean conditions for the dawn patrol, with just a light offshore wind and glassy peaks, after a weekend of lumpy, bumpy, 'June Gloom' conditions from the dreaded 'Catalina Eddy'.
Inconsistent, chest to head high with an occasional monster set, a little walled out, but pick the right wave and your really flying down the line, a pumping and a thumping!
Most amazing thing was there were only four of us (with the clean conditions the hordes must have gone to Bolsa Chica) lined up in the suck-up off the sea wall, of course you still had to negotiate the slalom course of lid heads and shortboarders sitting on the inside sandbar. (I hate people who just sit there, or paddle for the shoulder, right into your sights, as you come screaming out of the bowl.)
Caught a ton of waves! Took off on a clean, smaller pier bowl, faded into the peak, quick top turn and a nice cheater five all the way across the inside sandbar. Most of the overhead sets were walled, so it was hard off the bottom and out, duck under the lip, then pump, pump, pump and out ... over the top before you got thumped!
Saw the end of the pier light up with a big set, so scratched hard out to sea, let the first three go, then a real monster came rolling in ... took off late, just as the suck up kicked in, went near vert and free fell down the face, seemed to take forever - I was praying hard the nose didn't pearl) made the drop, hit the bottom and eased into a big carved turn onto the green ... what a rush ... that was about it, had to bail over the top before it closed out!
Well boys and girls ... that's it: time for a breakfast burrito, couple of Advill (aching all over) and a good nap ... all beat up!
Update: Ruby Tuesday
Must have caught 30 waves yesterday ate brecky, popped a couple of pain pills and passed out for 2 hours!
Alarm woke me up this morning at the usual 5:20 AM feeling very achy breaky but put in another 3 hours session. Not quite as big or clean as yesterday's classic waves but still outstanding!
Created: Monday July 21 2008 11:34:04 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 22 2008 09:52:53 PM
Thursday July 17 2008 09:49:32 PM
Welcome to Lake Mead:
No surf this past week so here is a blast from the past. I remember one of my early surf trips with Michael Eaves and Robbie Acton as if it were yesterday! An early summer dawn on a Wednesday in November 1967. Crescent Heads on the north east coast of New South Wales, Australia. The first rays of gold and red upon the ocean revealed perfect lines marching in around the point with sets from shoulder to a foot overhead, feathering in the light offshore breeze. Warm water, sand and a cobblestone bottom, lined the rocky headland ... no one out!
The Little Duce Coupe:
We had driven the several hundred miles, at a steady 90 MPH, boards strapped to the roof, south from Queensland on a Pacific Coast Highway strewn with 'dead man's curves' in Mike's Sunbeam Rapier (Michaels parents were wealthy Afrikaner ranchers who had fled to Australia from the Mau Mau uprising). We had seen some photos in an old Surfer Magazine of Midget Farrelly soul arching at Crescent, like Mickey Dora (my idol) at Malibu. We slept in the car at a campground by the creekmouth in the bay and instead of walking all the way around the point to get out we began the mile long paddle from shore.
(Sunbeam Rapier 1956-69) Engine: cast iron block with aluminium head)
Engine………………………………...4 Cylinders in Line
Bore and Stroke...................................81.5mm x 82.5mm
Carburetters......................................2 Zenith Stromberg 150 CDS
Fuel Pump.........................................A C Mechanica
Oil Filter........................................Full Flow
Maximum Power (net)...............................88.B.H.P at 5200 rpm
Maximum Torque (net)..............................100lb.ft at 4000 rpm
Clutch..............................Borg and Beck- 7 1/2 inch diaphragm spring
Top gear ratio......................1.0:1 (overdrive-0.803:1)
3rd gear ratio......................1.296:1 (overdrive-1.04:1)
2nd gear ratio......................1.993:1
1st gear ratio......................3.122:1
Ovedrive type.......................Laycock D-type
Final drive.........................Hypoid bevel 4.22:1
Maximum Speeds (MPH)
Mean-lap (banked circuit)..........................98.7
Best one-way 1/4_mile..............................102.2
Direct Top gear....................................93.0
O/d 3rd gear.......................................90.0
Standing 1/4 mile...................................18.5
Sunbeam Rapier - Sunbeam Alpine -Sunbeam Tiger:
The Sunbeam Rapier coupe was quite a classy car to own in Australia back in 1967 as was the Sunbeam Alpine which was driven by James Bond in Dr. NO and eventually became the Sunbeam Tiger, powered by a Ford V-8 and driven by Get Smart' s Agent 86. The Alpine had made its debut in 1953 and was a derivative of the Sunbeam-Talbot 90 sedan and drophead (convertible coupe), which featured a 2267cc 4-cylinder engine and 4-speed transmission with optional overdrive. This car had a remarkably successful rally career, including a 1953 overall victory in the famed Monte Carlo Rally.
An earlier version of the Alpine-Talbot, the Mk1 Drophead was used in the movie "To Catch a Thief" with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly.
To Catch a Wave:
It was still dark as we reached the line up and the swells looked like giant, moving black hills. OK who is going to catch the first wave! Playing it safe (no leashes and a long swim) I took off on the shoulder ... perfect wave. After catching a few of the smaller waves Michael and I tookoff on a giant overhead peak ... hard off the bottom ... crouching through the bowl in front of the rocks then out onto the long glass wall ... we were climbing and dropping, but as the wave boomeranged into the bay (now called The Racetrack) it got steeper and steeper, faster and faster! I was inside and low, Michael was up high in front and the wake from his board made the wave start to peel over my head ... I crouched down and grabbed a rail ... I could see light in the tunnel ... for a couple of seconds but then I was in the washing machine and making the long swim to the creek mouth. ... he rode it all the way almost a mile!
Was a punk kid back then riding an 9'8" log. Would love to go back in time to surf those same waves today ... either lip smacking & tail sliding on my 7' 2" MR Twin Fin "SuperFish" or screaming down the line on my super light, super fast, flat bottom, down railed 9' 2" modern high performance John-Luc Robert's Longboard!
Created: Wednesday July 16 2008 10:11:51 PM
Modified: Friday July 18 2008 09:50:36 PM
Wednesday July 9 2008 05:12:41 AM
The past few mornings of the dawn patrol at Seal Pier has been really fun, even though the waves have been small. Conditions have been great, no wind and a clean mix of NW and SW swells with a negative low tide.
Take off on the backside of the peak, then duck for a little cover up or a cheater five across the section, then nose ride the wall on the inside sandbar all the way into the shorebreak.
Created: Wednesday July 9 2008 05:36:10 AM
Modified: Wednesday July 9 2008 05:36:10 AM
Saturday July 5 2008 07:17:43 PM
"It never rains in Southern California in the summer ...." Happy 4th of July, except for the Cessna 150 towing a banner, that ditched in the line-up at Surfside at 4PM, life guards pulled the pilot out safely. 6 AM this morning, Northside Seal Beach Pier, waist to chest with occasional head high peaks.
Clean, glassy conditions 70 F air 65 F water only a handfull of guys out. Negative dawn low tide with incoming push. Take off on the other side of the peak, pump or crouch through the cover up, then work the wall across the inside sand bar!
Lasted until 8 AM when every man and his dog invaded the parking lot and the line-up ... taxi!
Created: Saturday July 5 2008 07:45:50 PM
Modified: Saturday July 5 2008 07:45:50 PM
Tuesday June 24 2008 10:29:40 PM
Hot, hot, hot! The lazy hazy days of summer hit out of the June Gloom banishing the dense early morning fog to Davey Jones locker. 90 F at the beach, over 100 F in downtown LA and 118 in Palm Springs! The water warmed up, seemingly over night, from a cold 56 F to a warm 70 F! A massive high pressure system over Mexico, early morning offshore winds and a combination of southern hemi swells ... surf for a solid week!
Started out on the dawn patrol at Barracuda's over by the north wall of the river jetty at Ray Bay. Waist to chest with the occasional head high peaks. A little walled as you hit the inside boomerang, needed the right wave and the right tide to make it across. Finished up the week at Northside Seal Pier as the minus low tide drained out the river. Clean, hot waist to chest with up to shoulder high left peaks off the jetty or rights off the middle sandbank.
Switched back and forth between my 9'2" performance longboard and my 7'2" SuperFish.
Created: Monday June 23 2008 10:36:44 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 24 2008 06:46:19 PM