|Find the best surf spots||
|Show surf session selector | Reset selector options
Surf session counter: 6
Saturday July 7 2007 10:33:49 PM
Created: Friday July 6 2007 10:57:31 PM
Modified: Friday July 6 2007 10:57:31 PM
Thursday July 5 2007 04:00:00 PM
So there I was, paddling for my life, wondering if I was going to make it out of this alive. A huge wave was welling up on the horizon, and here I was, paddling for my life, making my arms push themselves as deep into the water as I could, trying to maintain the long, slow strokes that would keep me in trim, doing anything I could to reduce as much drag as possible, trying my best to maintain the momentum. I was not entirely sure if I was going to make it, but sheer will was making me push forward, as I was determined NOT to get dumped on by this monster of a wave. Meanwhile, in my head, I kept telling myself that I need to remain calm and collected. I was practically screaming this to myself over and over, on the brink of sheer panic, yet I knew if I gave into that impulse, i would be totally fucked.
So I paddled and I paddled, having that horrible feeling that I was not actually going anywhere. It reminds me of those nightmares I have occasionally, you know, the ones where you're running from something, but you cant move or you're running in slow motion. The feeling is horribly similar to just that. However, I was moving, and FAST. Those long, slow strokes paid off as I finally reached this goliath of a wave, just as it was just starting to well up. The relief I felt was short lived as I realized I hadn't yet made it out of the drop zone. My arms were so tired, I felt like they were lead weights, yet I forced myself to keep going with the same momentum.
This monster was welling up like nothing I had ever experienced before. As I paddled, I got the feeling that I was trying to paddle up a fucking mountain. This monster of a wave just kept on going FOREVER, the more I paddled, the higher it got, or so it seemed. I couldn't even see the top of this thing, all I saw was the face of the most enormous mutha fucker of a wave that I had ever been on.
This was the shit I had been striving for all summer, this was the real shit, the big time. The little ripples I had conqured over at Bay Street last summer, that made me feel like such a bad ass, were NOTHING compared to this shit right here. This was what I had been pushing my self all summer for. This was the reason I was black and blue all over, taking beating after beating, forcing myself beyond those fears and hang ups that I felt were holding me back.
Self doubt started seeping into my mind, as I started thinking to myself, "do I REALLY have ANY business being out here right now?" I couldn't help but question myself, for the ocean that was so calm, not an hour before, took on an angry, menacing look as these monsters just rose out of the sea, seemingly out of nowhere.
At last, I had made it to the top, triumphant, as I shot myself up and over the peak, victoriously. I felt on top of the world, well literally, since the wave was so huge, that I felt as if I were teetering on top of a two story building as I gracefully soared up and over the wave, as it crashed down, behind me in the distance, with an thunderous roar, that was a bit unsettling to say the least.
There were more monsters coming in like this. I started to feel a bit sea sick as the ocean was churning, as the wind picked up and added a slight chop to the already challenging conditions.
That was probably the worst of it. those sets of gynormous waves came in for about a half hour, or an hour or so, then let up a bit to more reasonable conditions. Well, reasonable for me, anyway. I'm sure everyone else out there was loving it. I couldn't really tell, seeing as how, for a good part of that time, all I saw were huge waves all around, as I bobbed around to and fro, passing up wave after wave, waiting for one that was a bit more reasonable, as I asked myself, "I don't have a death wish, now do I?"
So off in the distance, I see one, I know it's the one. Looks kind of big, but after that whole fiasco I just experienced, I was like, fuck it, it's coming right to me, I'm gonna go for it! So I get myself all nice and ready, I start paddling...Then I glance back over my shoulder, and doubt starts creeping in. I'm a bit further inside than I should be, (I was trying something new that day, after some great advice from a friend, but that's a whole other story) as I realize this wave is gonna break a bit sooner than the others. But I can't turn back now, it's too late, so I decide that the only thing I can do is go for it. I know that if I hesitate, it's gonna be all over for me. So I paddle and paddle and paddle, and you know what? I caught it and rode it all the way in. It was fucking unbelievable. By no means was it flawless, I pretty much caught it right as it was dumping on me. It was coming in so fast that it almost knocked me off my board. I had to hang onto the rails for dear life as the rest of my body was pretty much airborne. But I just stayed with it, until I had things under control, then hopped up and had the ride of my FUCKING LIFE!
I rode this wave for what felt like FOREVER, it shot me out soooooo fast, it was unbelievable. I had this big epiphany while riding that wave. One of the areas I have been trying to perfect is my turns. I was having trouble with them before, but this time, It was no sweat. I realized that turning is a million times easier when you're being shot out at warp speed....I was having no problem turning, going left and right, just feeling it out and having a blast. I got to the shore, and leaned back, coming to a quick stop, I had things under control. :D
But then, I had to get back out there. Getting through the soup was becoming a real pain in the ass, what with the mountains welling up and the light chop and what not. But I was having a blast and wanted another one sooooooooo bad...
This time, as I paddled up another "mountain range" i realized that the shape of the waves were quite nice, they were huge, but I started noticing that there was this nice gradual incline to their face and I imagined what it would be like to be shooting down that thing, thinking that the drop might not be quite as terrifying due to the graceful curve of it's slope. I decided I wanted one of those monsters and that by the end of the day, I would be dropping down one of those fuckers, by golly!
It was decided. I was determined...
I caught some really great waves that day, however, I never did get to ride one of those huge waves I wanted so bad. I was already pretty tired out at that point, and had very little energy left in me, plus I started getting frustrated, which always fucks my shit up, I have this competitive streak in me that sometimes rears it's ugly head, and doesn't really get me anywhere. The sun was going down and I wanted one of those giants so bad, I kept getting mad, when I would paddle for one, and miss it, or pop up to soon and the wave would keep going, as I started cursing and muttering under my breath...thats always a sign that it's time for me to call it a day. When sheer frustration kicks in and takes all the fun out of it.
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/MeAfterSurf.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/Sunset.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
That's okay I thought, tomorrow's another day, right? So I dragged my weary ass to shore. I got all my stuff together then walked back towards the other end of the beach, where I proceeded to take part in my new routine of surfing till weary, then heading back to the other end of the beach, to watch the surfers do their thang, while the sun sets in the distance. I love this time of day, it's beautiful, magical, the golden hour.
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/OilRig.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7607.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
I watched these guys glide through the waves with an effortless grace. Its an exhillerating feeling just watching really experienced surfers. Everytime I do, it reconfirms my determination to be one of those guys out there, tearing up the waves. I saw some guy surf switch right in the middle of his wave, I didn't even know you could do that! Pretty cool, I guess I can learn a thing or two just by watchin.
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7572.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7583.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7578.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
It struck me how ironic the nature of surfing actually is. I mean, it can be pretty brutal at times, especially for someone at my expertise level, yet watching these guys glide through the waves, it's amazing how graceful surfing actually is. someday I'll get there, and I will look back on these blogs and laugh about the trials and tribulations it took to get to that point. These are some great days though, the days i'm gonna cherish for the rest of my life...
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7604.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7601.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7591.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7593.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
To Be Continued...
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 11:00:05 PM
Modified: Saturday July 7 2007 03:32:26 AM
Wednesday July 4 2007 04:20:00 PM
So for the 4th, we decided to head out to my new fav spot at El Porto which was a fiasco due to road closures, but my determination was such that somehow I found our way there.
The place was PACKED. We were super lucky to even find a parking spot. The day was overcast, which was actually nice, since I tan easily and needed a break from the sun for one day. For some odd reason, there were few surfers out there compared to the last time I had been there, last Monday. Which was alright, since I was able to find a nice, empty spot at the far end, to concentrate and not worry about getting in the way of people. It looked gnarly from the shore. i saw people wiping out left and right, I was cursing myself for being such a chicken and took an extra long time to stretch, thinking i would need a good one for the beating I was about to take, and also to stall and watch the ocean, debating if I even was really willing to get out there. The sign on the lifeguard tower said 2-4 feet, some waves looked a bit bigger, and it was about two hours before low tide.
Well after stalling for a good while, there came a lull in the sets that I had been waiting for, so I paddled out. When I got out there, I was surprised to find that it wasn't nearly as bad as it had looked, which was a shocker to me, since in my experience, things always look much more mellow from the car, or even from the shore. I kept telling myself to stay calm, relaxed and to breathe deeply, which I tend to forget sometimes in my ambition to get that wave of the day. This helped so much. I was calm, collected and waited and waited. i wanted to get the day off to a good start, because getting worked first thing always fucks my shit up big time. The blow to the ego is the worst part for me, then it's usually all downhill from there.
It was my second time at El Porto, and I was really getting accustomed to the way the waves break and so forth. Finally, far off on the horizon, I saw one, not too big, not too small, and coming right to me. I started paddling and caught it, riding it all the way in. I don't think I had even gotten my hair wet at this point. But I was super proud of myself. I don't need to try to explain the feeling here, because I know you all know what that feels like, only a surfer really knows, a friend of mine once said, but that statement is oh so true. I didn't catch one quite that good for the remainder of the day, even though I was trying to...You guys know, thats one of the things that keeps us going till the sun goes down sometimes, right? But I caught a bunch, got worked a few times, but nothing to crazy scary. It was all in all a fun time.
Except, that is for the end of my session, when I heard all this commotion and saw a bunch of surfers near me start freaking out and catching the next wave to shore. I thought I heard someone yell "OH SHIT" and coulda swore someone else yelled "SHARK" and thought i saw a fin, and then something jump out of the water as everyone hightailed it back in, but there was alot of commotion going on so i cant really be sure. I almost crapped my pants, but I told myself I gotta stay calm, and caught the next wave, and even rode it in, i was so calm...But still, it was my first experience of the sort, and even though I can't be sure what really happened there, It was pretty fucking crazy. The thing is, that there were these dudes fishing about directly in front of where the surfers that were freaking out were, so it all seems kind of plausable, the ocean was empty after that except for like, two people further down. I guess it happens, never happened to me before, but I suppose I had better get used to it, being in a habitat full of creatures that call my playground home.
So we headed out as the cops were rounding everyone up, letting us know the beach was closing. Fucking El Porto, even the COPS are cool as hell there. They just went around announcing that the beach was closed and we would get locked in if we didnt split soon, instead of kicking our asses out, like most beaches i've been to. I laughed with the realization that these cops totally talked like surfers themselves, "surfing cops" I thought to myself with a chuckle, "imagine that."
We got on the 105 freeway to head home. The timing was impeccable. The firework shows were going off all around us, and the elevation of the freeway gave us a perfect 360 degree view of all the explosions. I have never been eye level with fireworks before, and I never realized just how many firework shows went off simutaniously on the 4th. It was incredible. The whole way home, we had a perfect unobstructed view of all of LA's fireworks, and it was an insainely perfect end to the day....To Be Continued...
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 10:57:12 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 10:57:12 PM
Tuesday July 3 2007 04:00:00 PM
This wasn't at Pismo, it was actually at Shell Beach, probably a mile down from Piso. It kinda sucked, the waves died out before I could get acclimated to the colder northern waters, and the super slow waves that would just roll in without breaking, sloooooooowwwwwwly. There were some good lefts and rights, which totally fucked me up. The LA beaches I frequent have equal opportunity waves that offer lefts and rights, but i'm gonna have to get used to that shit someday, so it's all good.
I heard they had just caught a 15 ft great white in Avila Bay, which is bout a hop, skip and a jump away from Shell Beach. Luckily, I was told this after our session, "there are sharks up here, but they don't fuck with you." my surf buddy informed me. I just laughed and was glad I was told this AFTER the fact. I guess they butchered that shark, which is horrid. Even when i get a bit freaked seeing a shaddow off in the distance, when surfing alone, or while intoxicated, I know my fears of these creatures are pretty irrational and unlikely. I read about sharks alot, to learn about the habbits of these ancient creatures, I figure the knowledge is a good measure of prevention, should the unlikely, become reality...
But i's still a shame that these powerful beasts that are the definitive Darwinism on evolution at it's finest, a creature barely evolved, for billions of years, and yet we humans freak out, even though WE are the ones encroaching on THEIR habitat, and feel the need to destroy it immediately. Its a shame. Perhaps if I saw one in the water, right next to me, I might feel different, however, I have much respect for the ocean, more so now than ever, and all the creatures in it, as scary as they may see at times, but it's nature and must be respected.
Okay, that's enough ranting from me for one day, I wanna be a writer, right? So I tend to ramble....Anyway...Stay tuned for the next enthralling chapter of "Theadora's Surf Sessions." Now it's off the the beach for some surfin, fireworks and fun. Happy 4th Everybody! Take it eazy!
To Be Continued...
Created: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:47:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:47:59 PM
Saturday June 9 2007 02:09:11 AM
Created: Saturday June 9 2007 02:09:56 AM
Modified: Saturday June 9 2007 02:09:56 AM
Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM
El Porto is fuckin awesome. It's most def. my new favorite spot. Mad props to NBC, the dude who recommended the spot and obviously knows his shit...
I loved it. It started off mellow, i got there just around low tide. But it got pretty gnarly as the day wore on. By dusk, it was shoulder, to head high, then as the sun slipped into the ocean, there were a few overhead sets coming in. After a good four hours straight, I was pretty exhausted at that point, so i just watched people and really studied their take-offs, watched for little nuances when they made the drop and tried to absorb as much as I could. The only prob was, these guys were so good, that they took off with this effortless grace, and ripped that shit up!!!
It was amazing watching these dudes, made me realize how much everyone sucks at the lame spots I frequent, or used to that is...El Porto is the shit, my new spot for sure. i liked the vibe, the waves were just scary enough to force me to step it up a notch, you know push myself outa my comfort zone. With time I think I could really progress there...which I sure as hell intend to do.
Watching those dudes rip and shred the waves with such effotless grace, made me remeber how bad I want to do that someday. Sufing just about every other day has earned me my paddling arms, and I'm gonna start taking my shortie out, and start practicing on that one too. I can paddle just fine, but the pop up is a whole other story. I find that getting through tthe white water is sooo much easier though, on the 6 footer, that it does have its appeal. Anyhow, thats all...
To be Continued...
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 07:06:26 AM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 07:06:26 AM