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Surf session counter: 32
Sunday October 18 2009 02:00:00 PM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 1 min
Surfboard ridden: 8'6" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 65 F Air, 84F Water
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
I went down to catch a few waves before the football game at 4pm. Got out and found a few waves, but there was a strong drift to the south. So it was a constant fight to stay near the break. The water was at least 20 F warmer than the air, it was pretty freaky. I'm used to surfing in 65-70 F water normally with the air being 70-85 F. It was the first time I've seen the water so much warmer.
The wind was howling offshore and with the cold temp my head got cold real fast. Some dunks in the warm water took care of it though and it was certainly a lot better than surfing in 58 F water.
There were tons of small green fish near the beach and out in the lineup. After I had been out for almost an hour, I was paddling when I saw a 4 ft shark thrashing around the surface about 20 yards from me. He was tearing into some of those green fish.
I was happy that they were keeping him busy, but I didn't feel like getting in his way, even if he was fairly small. So I took the next wave into the shore.
Maybe he was good luck? My team had a huge win after my swim with the shark.
Created: Saturday October 24 2009 01:51:56 AM
Modified: Saturday October 24 2009 01:51:56 AM
Saturday August 8 2009 06:00:00 PM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1.5 min
Surfboard ridden: 8'6" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 94 F air, 83 F water
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Finally had some spare time when some swells showed up (small is better than nothing). The tide was coming in, but the waves were still solid. It was my second session of the day here and the wind was a bit stronger, but I didn't mind the chop as long as there was something to surf.
Some other locals were complaining about the crowds, but even for a Saturday it was pretty quiet. I guess they are used to surfing with less than 5 people within sight? I had no problems with other surfers getting in my way during either session. There were 3 solid sandbars breaking so people were spread out and everyone was catching waves.
I talked to some other locals and they were friendly. The weather in the late afternoon was much better than earlier. The water felt so hot in my first session combined with the sun. I was actually wishing for some 70 F water to cool me down.
Lots of jumping and spinning fish in the lineup, which of couse also ment lots of pelicans. Thankfully no swimming predators were seen.
Some of the weekend crowd left soda cans and plastic bottles all over the beach. After my session, I chilled out in a chair on the beach with a cold beverage. Finally as people packed up and I could tell that no one was going to clean up their stuff, I got a bag and filled it with junk to toss in the dumpster. The beach is quite clean and I'd like it to stay that way.
Anyhow, the waves were fun. Myself and the others around me were getting as many as we could handle. Solid sets of 3s were coming every 5 minutes or so. They were fairly straight on (just slightly from the SE) so there wasn't much sideshore current to deal with this time.
Created: Sunday August 9 2009 07:14:46 AM
Modified: Sunday August 9 2009 07:14:46 AM