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Surf session counter: 2
Thursday January 22 2009 12:00:00 AM
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: a dozen or so
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: My 6'3 Diverse Turbo
Fins: FCS PC5
Weather and water temp: Warm
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Our last surf here and it just turned on. The arvo glass off was like liquid oil/gold on the surface and the sunset was reflected pink off the water. 8 of us out, shoulder high + on the sets, just perfect. An awesome wave, can't wait to surf it at a proper 6ft+!
Created: Monday January 26 2009 05:46:09 AM
Modified: Monday January 26 2009 05:46:09 AM
Saturday July 26 2008 07:00:55 AM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10?
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 6"3"
Weather and water temp: warm, nice
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
My friend and our families drove from Shonan to get some waves here. There were so many people in the water and they were so serious about their surfing. I was the only gaijin that I saw in the water, not many people were friendly towards me, everyone was riding the same equipment (6'1's or 6'2's) and just KOOKING it. I'm from Oz and it was a bit of a cultural shock compared to our Saturday morning sessions. Even my Japanese friend was a bit shocked about the rudeness but was having a laugh about it.
I can see the place has potential though. After about 2 hours the crowd on the right got up to at least 100+ so we went for a paddle to see what was on the other side of the tetras, and there was a knee high left running down the tetras for about 50-60 metres - GOLD! - and only a learner guy and his chick on a boog, smiling and happy. Compared to the tryhards on the other side it was unreal - i'd love to see how they'd go in real surf grrrr.
Anyway, thanks to the learner guy and his chick, getting away from the crowd made our visit there totally cool. I'll be back if there is swell - but if there's no swell....well?
Created: Monday October 13 2008 12:56:53 PM
Modified: Monday October 13 2008 12:56:53 PM