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Surf session counter: 3731
Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:04 AM
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:52 AM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:52 AM
Sunday April 19 2009 08:00:00 AM
Testing the cut back with the quatro; no so easy!
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:53:23 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:53:23 PM
Saturday April 18 2009 02:00:00 PM
The takeoff backside grab rails works fine !
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:47:19 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:47:19 PM
Saturday April 18 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:45:35 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:46:02 PM
Saturday April 18 2009 07:15:00 AM
The waves were a little bigger than expected and I was just at the right moment after the low tide. We were only 2. I got mainly 1m to 1.2m waves but sometimes, beautiful and hollow 1.5m sets were breaking.
I got 2 of the biggest waves: hollow right were I was backside and at the enter of the tube. A really good memory.
Several photos of me:
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 10:14:21 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 10:14:21 PM
Friday April 17 2009 02:00:00 PM
Very nice wave. not alone: Brazilians and Aussies...
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:43:29 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:43:29 PM
Friday April 17 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:41:40 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:41:40 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 08:00:00 PM
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:03 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 10:15:57 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 02:00:00 PM
Not in good mood. Tired...
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:09:36 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:09:36 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 02:00:00 PM
Created: Thursday May 7 2009 10:48:02 PM
Modified: Thursday May 7 2009 10:48:02 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 10:30:00 AM
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 07:42:07 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 07:42:07 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 08:00:00 AM
Some current, easy wave, a lot of water!
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:08:34 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:08:34 PM
Wednesday April 15 2009 08:46:07 PM
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 08:47:05 PM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 08:47:05 PM
Wednesday April 15 2009 08:40:12 PM
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 08:42:26 PM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 08:42:26 PM
Wednesday April 15 2009 09:00:00 AM
Missed Riffles, so we went to 4 bobs. This spot is really good for regular surfers (means non-aliens looking for2m+ barrels)... but ther is no water! We ofter touch the corals with the fins when waiting for the sets :)
Surf with just Remi and paul at the begining, cool to be 3 on the spot!
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:06:00 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:55:17 PM
Tuesday April 14 2009 02:00:00 PM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:03:24 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:06:23 PM
Tuesday April 14 2009 08:30:00 AM
The swell was expected to rise during the day from 1.20m to 2.5m. When I came, the tide was high but a beautiful outside bank was working: perfect lefts were breaking every ten minutes. I was alone in the water and it was really good. Waves werfe powerful so I just make big turns in the glassy faces.
After one hour, the peak was starting to close out. I went outside to check the south. But it was not a good choice: there was a right but not as good with a lot of surfers. after 20mn I came back to the left. It started breaking better and hollower. The best waves were around a solid 2m with a lot of current but the left was long, hollow and makeable.
We were only two surfers as it was hard. After 3 waves, I dropped in a solid one: I started with a long fun wall then an hollow bowl started to rise up just in front of me, I hesitated as it was big but I slowed down, stayed really high in the wave and get tubed, a big one, get the lip on my head at the end then I continued to surf on the end of the wall with big turns. It was one of my top ten wave in my life.
As I was tired, I went out. It was a good choice: the swell continued to rise up and it became too big.
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 06:41:25 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:18 PM
Tuesday April 14 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:01:57 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 04:03:44 PM
Monday April 13 2009 06:22:09 PM
I came back inthe evening because the wind dropped down. It was high tide and the swell was smaller than the morning. It was nearly only a shorebreak. But sometimes, few waves were opening. They were very fast and hollow. I got few good ones and the last one was the best one: a good beautiful tube (I pulled in and get out...). A good session at the end.
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 06:28:29 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:29 PM
Monday April 13 2009 09:14:08 AM
A fun day, but I was having an unco one. Falling off a lot. Super crowded take off zone which I wanted to steer clear of. not a lot of wave options from anywhere else though. Gotta get me some face!!
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:15:57 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:15:57 AM
Monday April 13 2009 08:30:00 AM
The surf was better in the water than it appears form the shor. Even it was multipeak, I get some good waves.
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 03:28:35 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:42 PM
Sunday April 12 2009 09:33:45 AM
only the second time i've been there and the first time there was any waves. only got 1 but i was stoked any way. but i had a bad exprience with the reef. i went for a set wave and got stuck in the lip, you can fill in the blanks. reef hard. shit scared of every thing else after that. then i had to find a way back in which isn't hard to do if you know what your doing unlike me.
Created: Sunday April 12 2009 07:07:58 AM
Modified: Sunday April 12 2009 07:07:58 AM
Sunday April 12 2009 09:11:36 AM
Hard work today. Lots and lots of white water. Some guys still making it look easy, but not many.
We'd come out to teach the nephew how to surf. he was quickly over it, so we helped ourselves. Some nice rights with a bit of face, but nothing exciting. A whole lot of foam.
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:13:51 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:13:51 AM
Saturday April 11 2009 10:43:27 PM
Nice trip, wave were big, around 5ft, tubular, and close-out big walls...what else do u want :D...had a great day...surfed all morning, then it got flat during the afternoon, competition didn't fill my expectation, they'd have done it right in the morning when waves were big and consistent...
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 12:30:44 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 12:30:44 AM
Saturday April 11 2009 01:00:00 PM
Broke the leash of the 7S. Had to get back to the beach to get my board. 5 small cuts on the rail and tail. Fixed them with Solarez.
Created: Monday April 27 2009 11:52:31 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 03:57:10 PM
Saturday April 11 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 11:48:44 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 11:48:44 AM
Saturday April 11 2009 02:32:37 AM
few more waves
fall out of the sky, land on the flats and totaly distroyed
weird emotion of stoked and and pain
get wave of the day
Created: Saturday April 11 2009 12:45:47 PM
Modified: Saturday April 11 2009 12:45:47 PM
Friday April 10 2009 09:07:55 AM
Today was a fun day and glorious to be out in the sunshine with waves. Some nice shape but all breaking from the one peak. A number of take off points would have made things easier. Some great talent down here and so good just to watch others. Not much luck with the longboard, can't seem to make the drop. Will need to move right back from now on and try inching forward to find my spot. Some fun rides on the 7'6, which feels really natural.
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:10:58 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:10:58 AM
Friday April 10 2009 09:01:44 AM
Everywhere was flat and unsurfable so we went to club cap. The set waves had some nice walls but they were breaking pritty fast and i couldn't get many but i was having fun on the inside.
Then all of a suden this blue whale just formed up out the back and caught every one inside so they threw all there boards but, i didn't, no i sprint paddled for the horison just made it over the top and was in the best positoin for the next one, it didn't come.
Created: Saturday April 11 2009 12:03:35 PM
Modified: Saturday April 11 2009 12:26:19 PM
Thursday April 9 2009 03:45:18 AM
this is my local spot but its not the best most of the time, a couple of summers ago it was goin off! it was like 8 feett bueatiful a-frames everywhere. supers-ketchy and super-fun
Created: Thursday April 9 2009 03:50:14 AM
Modified: Thursday April 9 2009 03:50:14 AM
Monday April 6 2009 08:00:00 AM
April come she will and "Spring Break" has sprung! The Cherry trees are in full bloom back East and the warm California sun was shinning on a picture perfect day at Ray Bay.
Loveliest of trees, the cherry now
Is hung with bloom along the bough,
And stands about the woodland ride
Wearing white for Eastertide.
Now, of my three score years and ten,
Twenty will not come again,
And take from seventy springs a score,
It only leaves me fifty more.
And since to look at things in bloom
Fifty springs are little room,
About the woodlands I will go
To see the cherry hung with snow.
AE Housman (1859 - 1936)
Just crusing along Slip sliding away!
Created: Tuesday April 7 2009 06:38:12 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 7 2009 06:41:13 AM
Monday April 6 2009 05:43:47 AM
not bad but the tide was to low and when the bomb sets were coming through parts of the reef were exposed but we all got some sick barrels.
Created: Tuesday April 7 2009 01:53:10 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 7 2009 01:53:10 AM
Sunday April 5 2009 10:00:00 AM
The swell was bigger than announced (1.6m, 11s). It was far from perfect but I found some hollow ones: a big drop, a big turn , and a rush !
At the end, a pretty good session.
Created: Sunday April 5 2009 05:04:38 PM
Modified: Sunday April 5 2009 05:06:42 PM
Sunday April 5 2009 07:30:00 AM
This morning we actually had some decent waves. Started out a little slow with the early morning high tide but picked up and conditions stayed clean. Warm and sunny with a mix of NW and Southern Hemi ground swells in the water and light off-shore breeze.
When the Pier gets really good the swells all merge into big peaks that refract off the breakwall into what we call "Harvey Wall Bangers". The wave suddenly jumps up to one and a half times its size like "The Wedge" at Newport ... you free fall down the face and if you make the drop, your in a cannon barrel churning over the shallow inside sand bar!
Picked off three good one each one better than the last! The creme de la creme was a big overhead wall that came grinding through. Took off way deep by the sea wall, with the peak feathering over my head, top turned and started pumping like crazy in a half crouch. The wave was totally walled out in front and grinding over me but my board was just flying and skipping, it was going so fast. I made it across the inside sandbar to the shore break banked off the top and fell down the face on to my side. Don't know if it was the speed or the height but it hurt like a sonofabitch. Knocked the wind right out of me. Came up gasping like a fish. Everyone was hooting and hollering but all I could do was give a thumbs up!
(Was riding my new Auz EPS/Epoxy Quad using the two outer 4.6" Future's with a 4" trailer. One thing you notice, it top turns much better than a regular longboard and holds the highline speed track. The photo above is my old 9'2" Jean Luc 2+1 and you can see the low slow position.)
Pour vodka and orange juice into a collins glass over ice cubes and stir. Float galliano on top and serve with a sprig of mint and lemon peel.
Created: Monday April 6 2009 12:33:59 AM
Modified: Monday April 6 2009 12:34:40 AM
Saturday April 4 2009 11:42:00 AM
Was a good day to start this years season. Wave build-up was looking good from Wednesday. £ of us went. About 30 - 40 people with mid tide going to high.
Waves were steady and powerful, stayed that way till nearly high tide. Wind picked up for about 30 mins and was pushing the waves over, closing out early, but still powerful. After that it went flat (as usual with high tide) but picked up pretty soon again, the afternoon was not so good, waves were a bit mushy, sets of two cancelling each other out and the a set of 10 would hit with some good walls. Turned into a lot of white water then. Worst thing was the brain freeze while getting in. Thank god for my fireskin suit, but the sun was out so i didn't go with the cap.
Created: Saturday April 4 2009 06:24:25 PM
Modified: Thursday April 9 2009 10:53:01 AM
Saturday April 4 2009 07:00:00 AM
got there at about 6am and it was so small that it was bearly breakng so we went to check club cap but there was no banks so we headed back to rafts. i paddled out and took a few waves and headed to the other side os the reef got a little rail grab barrel on a left, saw a set come through on the other side and went back about 5 miniutes later the 2 foot day was well overhead. took the second wave of the first set and nailed my forhand hacks and and did a masive kick out just in time to see some poor basted go over the falls and it just kept getting better.
until about the 6th set (the biggest of the day) came through. i wasent keeping an eye on the drift coz i was chatting to some bloke when he turned around and started going i saw the wave coming anf figurerd i was safe, but in classic rafts fashion the wave jacked up and sucked all the water off the reef under me. at this stage i was shitting brick's(also making the reef shallower) there was no way out so i turned towards the shore and sprint paddled(it fucken hut).
took a few more waves got barreld and distroyed the sets and went home
Created: Monday April 6 2009 10:20:36 AM
Modified: Monday April 6 2009 10:20:36 AM
Saturday April 4 2009 03:00:00 AM
Got out at bout 3pm and the waves were leaving a lot to be desired. Sketchy all over the place seemed to be the theme for the first hour or so, then when the after noon onshore winds picked up and the tide started moving out the waves picked up and were a lil more consistant. No tubes or anything but fun chasers with room for 1 or 2 flat spins believe it or not. 3 bodyboarders and 5 surfers made for a good atmosphere, thought the kind of smallish decent breaking section made sure that there were some close calls and bails for every1 taking on. Not a bad day at all though
Created: Monday April 6 2009 11:30:55 AM
Modified: Sunday August 23 2009 07:31:33 AM
Friday April 3 2009 12:12:29 AM
Created: Friday April 3 2009 12:14:46 AM
Modified: Friday April 3 2009 12:14:46 AM
Wednesday April 1 2009 07:03:00 AM
This shot was taken this morning (from a distance) inside the breakwater at low tide. Was riding my new EPS/Epoxy 9'0" x 23" x 18" x 15" x 3" swallow tailed 'Kingfisher' quad. Waves were pretty clean, waist to chest with shoulder plus sets. Dead low tide over at Barracuda's by the North wall of the breakwater and kind of closing out but if you picked the right wave it was fast and fun.
Was riding with the 2 X 4.6" outside Future fins and a single 4" trailer. The 4" is actually one of the inside quad fins and is slightly foiled however usually you can not tell the difference, this morning however it was fast enough to make the fin hum.
You can see how much you can lay the rail in with this hybrid versus a regular longboard!
Created: Wednesday April 1 2009 06:52:13 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 1 2009 06:52:13 AM
Friday March 27 2009 12:37:42 PM
Super banks 6-8 feet, tomorrow bigger!
Created: Friday March 27 2009 12:39:35 PM
Modified: Friday March 27 2009 12:39:35 PM
Thursday March 26 2009 09:50:10 PM
Overall not a bad day - It was just a lot smaller than I thought it was going to be and I was getting a little frustrated at trying to fight with all the SUP's out there that were catching all the waves...
Created: Thursday March 26 2009 09:53:35 PM
Modified: Thursday March 26 2009 09:53:35 PM
Thursday March 26 2009 06:30:00 AM
its getting warmer. . .
too many bodyboarders in the water.
Created: Tuesday March 31 2009 12:57:51 AM
Modified: Tuesday March 31 2009 12:57:51 AM
Monday March 23 2009 07:30:00 AM
Created: Friday March 27 2009 03:06:32 PM
Modified: Friday March 27 2009 03:06:32 PM
Sunday March 22 2009 05:00:00 PM
Created: Friday March 27 2009 03:04:57 PM
Modified: Friday March 27 2009 03:04:57 PM
Sunday March 22 2009 12:30:00 PM
At high tide, I got a good tubular bowl but the session was short before the wind turned onshore and it was strong.
Created: Tuesday March 24 2009 10:06:08 PM
Modified: Tuesday March 24 2009 10:06:08 PM
Sunday March 22 2009 10:30:00 AM
Created: Friday March 27 2009 03:03:44 PM
Modified: Friday March 27 2009 03:03:44 PM
Saturday March 21 2009 07:44:15 PM
Created: Saturday March 21 2009 07:45:47 PM
Modified: Saturday March 21 2009 07:45:47 PM
Saturday March 21 2009 05:00:00 PM
Created: Friday March 27 2009 03:02:07 PM
Modified: Friday March 27 2009 03:02:07 PM