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Surf session counter: 3896
Saturday August 14 2010 05:34:02 PM
Not a bad combo. Fun to bring out the cortez and the NSPs. We have a new addition to the quiver. An 8'O that's been getting all the attention. Haven't had a go on it yet, since my last experience with our longest board, a 7'2" ended bad. I tried to stay on when I should have fallen... People don't do a layback on big board for a reason 'cause when you don't make it, and the board is still in the wave, it can push straight at your back and it hurts!
I'm fine, tho it was a bit scarry to have backpains in the water...
Anyway the 6'10" was fun enough, and we are looking at 2 flat days, but if the wind is on, we would have some wind chop to surf, which is why we love galicia!
Created: Sunday August 15 2010 05:37:58 PM
Modified: Sunday August 15 2010 05:37:58 PM
Tuesday August 10 2010 02:39:04 PM
Created: Sunday August 15 2010 02:43:51 PM
Modified: Sunday August 15 2010 02:43:51 PM
Tuesday August 10 2010 09:49:16 AM
We were going up north to finish our traval in Shikoku. We passed on the road along a "bad" spot of the area. But I was surprised to see this waves and I just jumped for few minutes to take some of them. (as my family was waitind, I just had few minutes).
In 15min I took 5 waves (a performance with 60 surfers on 2 peaks): as the swell was south, the spot was pretty good.
Note: there are some waves on the opposite island
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM
Tuesday August 10 2010 05:30:00 AM
Kaifu ! It's maybe the mos tfamous japanese spot. It's the rivermouth standard. On a big swell, it's a long hollow right. On a medium or small size, it's a slab on a sand/gravel bar. You have a 1.5m to 2m peak on a no more than 1m deep water: I have done several freefalls and I could stand up on the sand bar with the water at my hips...
There are a fierce competition here with very good / professionnal surfers in the water. Hopefully, the conditions were pretty mellow (for the standard here !!!) and we were only 3 at the beginning.
I took 10 waves but I surfed well only 4 of them. I didn't have this sensation since Tahiti: I didn't have the level to surf this spot well. The waves were too fast and too hollow for me. It was the first time I felt that my wonderful fish Maurice Cole was not the good board: too small and too wide... I felt I didn't have enough engagement. And it was just a bad day for locals!!!
It's just a wonderful incredible wave !
this peak of me shows how incredible is the wave. It's only a small swell, 1,20m, but with the wonderful sandbank and the rip, it turned into a hollow big and powerful wave, very hard to take. If you are a good surfer you can tube at nearly every wave.
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:48:41 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:23:42 AM
Monday August 9 2010 03:00:00 PM
10 years ago, I have bought the japanese surf spots atals. As it was in japanese, I just saw the photos. I remarked a photo with no mention of a beautiful surf spot. It was a dream, the type of dream wich make you travel. I didn't even knew where it was...except it was a reef in Shikoku.
We passed at this reef this afternoon at low tide: there was no wave but I recognized the landscape. It was Takegashima ! We went to do snorkelling and the tideraised up. When I came back to quit the area, I saw a small wave with a surfer. I jumped in the water via the etrapods and surf it.
The surf was far than exceptionnal but as it's a reef, the wave really surfable. And the water was so clear. And the landscape was beautiful. And I was so far from home. I just enjoyed so much this session. The other guy was a japanese on a single. A fierce local. But after 30mn, as I kept a low profile, we started to speak. He explained me that the spot is usually totally crowded.
The wave got better with the rising tide. I had to come back.
Created: Thursday August 26 2010 01:15:19 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:33:25 AM
Monday August 9 2010 05:30:00 AM
Again Ozaki early in the morning but surfers are already there...
Waves were better than yesterdeay but this spot has nothing to be compared to Monobe.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM
Sunday August 8 2010 04:00:00 PM
We stopped at Ozaki in a pension 200m from the spot (tokumasu pension). It's a beachbrea and it's crowded with surfers from Osaka. The beach is the same that thoses I have seen in Tahiti: black sand, green mountain fallen directly into the sea, peaky waves.
I was surprised: 20% are girls and they surfed better than me !!
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:04:06 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:06:26 AM
Sunday August 8 2010 08:40:22 AM
I knew Monobe was good. I didn't have any forecasts but I wake up at 4:45 and drive 30mn to Monobe. Will it be better than yesterday ? swell, no swell ? localism ?
When I arrived, it was A-Frame ! with already surfers in water. The left was better than yesterday. I started the session with only 2 surfers wich is incredible in Japan for this spot.
I took around 15 waves and because of the rip, I just surfed 1:15. What a session ! The morning lights with the tropical storms were amazing. The other surfers started to talk after 30mn (the regular asianobservation...)
Even if I will not surf more in Japan this year, I was very happy to have found this quality of waves.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:51:12 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:56:40 AM
Sunday August 8 2010 01:00:41 AM
Created: Monday August 9 2010 10:00:00 AM
Modified: Monday August 9 2010 03:46:04 PM
Saturday August 7 2010 12:50:29 PM
Created: Saturday August 7 2010 12:55:59 PM
Modified: Saturday August 7 2010 12:55:59 PM
Saturday August 7 2010 12:35:22 PM
Created: Friday August 13 2010 12:36:33 PM
Modified: Friday August 13 2010 12:36:33 PM
Saturday August 7 2010 05:15:00 AM
I was visiting Japan since ten days mainly in the mountains of Shikoku, far from the shore, far from internet and the forecasts. It was the first day we were near the shore. We were driving to our hotel at the end of the day when I decided to see the very first spot on the road. I didn't even knew that Monobe was a major rivermouth spot of Japan. I didn't even knew where the wave was.
It situated at the end of the airport. I climbed on the jetty and, surprise, there were waves. Not good waves but punchy waves. No surfers. In fact, it was the beginning of the first typhoon swell of august.
I started to surf, a little afraid because of the very strong rip from the rivermouth. Why there was no surfer ? Waves were very hard to take, steepy, shallow, sand and boulders. Then some surfers appeared. I has been blocked underwater after a reentry : the wave is just powerful !
The landscape of mountains in the summer is incredible. After the session, I realized that this spot is a difficult and famous one and I was lucky to havesome waves here alone.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:20:17 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:05:45 AM
Friday August 6 2010 04:29:37 PM
Une seule session sur Lombok; de passage en famille près de Kuta Lombok... On s'est arrêté à Grupuk. Il y avait là à peu près tous les surfeurs de Kuta, à croire que c'est le seul spot du coin (à Kuta, c'était un peu torchon, faut avouer). J'ai croisé James et Rob, deux Anglais qui arrivaient de Kuta et on a partagé le bateau. Un bon quart d'heure pour rejoindre la vague. Il y avait une bonne dizaine de surfeurs à l'eau, mais c'était ok. J'ai pris 11 vagues de 2M+. Puissants, de bons murs au take off! La vague est rapide mais pas trop. Au fond des rochers et des algues; je me suis fait rouler une ou deux fois; c'est noir mais il y a de l'eau. Une vague "safe". Une belle session avec soleil couchant et des mecs cool à l'eau.
Created: Sunday August 8 2010 04:36:00 PM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:28:41 AM
Tuesday August 3 2010 11:56:44 PM
Media Marea subiendo, dos picos bien definidos, derecha e izquierda, sin viento, serie potente en la orilla. El mejor dia del verano.
Created: Wednesday August 4 2010 12:00:55 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 4 2010 12:00:55 AM
Monday August 2 2010 06:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:29:35 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:30:05 PM
Monday August 2 2010 10:57:33 AM
B4 breakfast surfs are hard for me 'cause I love breakfast. But it looked so good, and we have had just baby surfs for a few days now. Actually since the full moon. They say that if the waves are shit during the full moon then it stays shit for a solid week. It's true. Anyway the week of scheis is over, and bring it on!
This wave is not like it was last year, with the full on peeling wall, but beachbreaks are like this, sometimes its good, and sometimes it's avg. So the wall is a bit shorter than it use to be, but still, a meter is a meter, and glassy is glassy.
Flo got some good ones, and I got a couple of lefts that are happy. Martin, Lukas, and Nils joined in a little later. On my last wave, I was going for a big (for me) right.... and i just wasn't committed enough to go. My board went anyway, and I entered the washing machine.
The wind still hasn't picked up... and I think Pantin is on the agenda for the after lunch surf, and it's definitely gonna be a 3 surf day:)
Created: Monday August 2 2010 11:14:30 AM
Modified: Monday August 2 2010 11:14:30 AM
Sunday August 1 2010 06:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:25:02 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:27:06 PM
Sunday August 1 2010 06:48:59 AM
Created: Monday August 2 2010 06:50:55 AM
Modified: Monday August 2 2010 06:50:55 AM
Saturday July 31 2010 02:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:21:51 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:31:28 PM
Friday July 30 2010 06:18:06 PM
It looked like shit but we went in anyway as it was Lukas's first session in 2 years. We go, biggest boards possible, and it turned better! Some good lefts, and a couple of locals even pulls some alley-oops (or whatever they're called).
It stayed good for a solid hour, and then it got closey when the tide came up too much.
Anyway better than as forecasted. The boys also got to test out the locals' longboard(skate) while lunching at the cafe. Beautiful weather and good vibe. Yay-ya.
Created: Saturday July 31 2010 06:21:45 PM
Modified: Saturday July 31 2010 06:21:45 PM
Wednesday July 28 2010 03:05:46 AM
Created: Thursday July 29 2010 03:09:13 AM
Modified: Thursday July 29 2010 03:09:13 AM
Tuesday July 27 2010 06:10:00 AM
There was still a small summer swell. Enough to jump into the water !
Created: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:03:34 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:03:34 PM
Tuesday July 27 2010 06:10:00 AM
Hoped for early morning Glass - but slight wind blowing. Full high tide as day started and had a lot of closeouts, but as tide started to drop, the swell which was still small, but a bit longer and cleaner than previous days, started to produce some decent waves on the sets.
Created: Wednesday July 28 2010 02:25:21 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 28 2010 02:25:21 PM
Monday July 26 2010 07:15:00 AM
I was just hungry of surf and wanted to test my new surf before going to Japan. Nothing to say: waves were crappy but I had a better feeling with my new board.
I went with Richard.
Created: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:01:47 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:01:47 PM
Monday July 26 2010 06:52:00 AM
More swell than previous days, but very messy with short period and lots of overlapping waves, no real peak, and a fair amount of current. the conditions were poor, my surfing was awful... ahh tired arms!
Created: Monday July 26 2010 11:54:06 AM
Modified: Monday July 26 2010 11:54:06 AM
Sunday July 25 2010 05:50:03 PM
Was flat in the morning, swell sort of picked up, but so did the swell. Very short period clapot. Just about surfable, but might just as well have had a beer - since i woke my old shoulder tendon injury....aggghhh
Created: Sunday July 25 2010 11:14:21 PM
Modified: Sunday July 25 2010 11:14:21 PM
Sunday July 25 2010 12:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday July 27 2010 09:50:04 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 27 2010 09:50:04 PM
Saturday July 24 2010 07:33:34 PM
First session at Cayton Bay since getting my new board. The waves were only pretty small and closing out for the most of it, however after a two hour drive from Sheffield we decided to get in the water! Since I have only just started back surfing it was good just to get a little more time in the water and on the board. Managed to get one or two half decent rides so made the drive worth while!
Created: Saturday July 24 2010 07:40:18 PM
Modified: Saturday July 24 2010 07:40:18 PM
Saturday July 24 2010 09:24:19 AM
Avec Fred & Richard; unpeu en vrac, multipeak.
Created: Saturday July 24 2010 02:26:10 PM
Modified: Saturday July 24 2010 02:26:10 PM
Saturday July 24 2010 08:51:03 AM
Small swell on a dropping tide and light onshore... but at least it was sunny. First look from the dune, and it was not even evident if it was worth getting wet. But once in some waves opened up a bit and managed a few decent rides, considering the conditions. Nice to be in the watre with friends (Chris and Fred) - a bit disappointing after an 8hr drive - and looks like it will be flat tomorrow....
Created: Sunday July 25 2010 11:55:09 AM
Modified: Sunday July 25 2010 11:55:09 AM
Saturday July 24 2010 01:35:41 AM
Short session at Pantin today. Didn't expect much, and with no one in the water and it looking currenty, we lowered our expectations going in the water. And within 5 minutes we each got long rides. This encourages a few campers to join in on the fun, but not bad, not bad.
We then went to Campelo. Much smaller, but still a lot of fun. The ladies joined this surf and always nice to be on a beautiful beach when it's a sunny day.
Created: Saturday July 24 2010 01:38:40 AM
Modified: Saturday July 24 2010 01:38:40 AM
Sunday July 18 2010 01:30:00 PM
We went to Hossegor but the swell was far smaller than expected. only 0.80cm to 1m rather than 1.5m...
It was just crowded: people fighted for surf and fighted literally. What a bad example from old locals to all the young generation.
It was my real first test of my new board in powerless condition. I didn't scored as good as I expected: bad position on the board, didn't felt good my maybe too small fins... I think my deep concave need more powerful wave to start to work.
Created: Wednesday July 21 2010 09:48:06 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:42:33 PM
Sunday July 18 2010 01:13:35 AM
Created: Tuesday July 27 2010 01:14:42 AM
Modified: Tuesday July 27 2010 01:14:42 AM
Friday July 16 2010 04:00:38 PM
Created: Friday July 23 2010 07:23:08 PM
Modified: Friday July 23 2010 07:26:56 PM
Wednesday July 14 2010 04:20:01 PM
Flo and Maxi are going for the 360 so they are surfing twin fin shortys now. The weather is not so great and after our long session at Pantin yesterday, the rest of us decided to surf the internet instead. So we are having drinks and tapas, while Flo and Maxi keeps the surf camp surfing:)
Created: Wednesday July 14 2010 04:22:18 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 14 2010 04:22:18 PM
Sunday July 11 2010 09:00:00 AM
I test today my new smallest board: a 5'8" modern fish (a full deep concave) SWOP in remplacement on my 6'0" Maurice Cole. I was pretty worried to test it (would the board as good as the old one ?)
Check the result first: a big thanks to Fredo. It's my most beautiful board ever. I didn't put any pad in order to not hide the drawing. And you know what ? I discover that a pad isn't necessary: I can surf as good with only wax.
The surf: ouch. It was low tide and it was just a right slab ! Not the best day to test a new board. I was backside to complicate my test.
Hard to take, very steepy, short but sooooo powerful, waves were just a square !
And the test was passed: the board was better than the previous one (same outline and volume but 2 inches shorter and smaller fins thanks to the advice of SWOP). It turns faster with a lot of reactivity. I managed to surf backside square waves. I didn't catched any tube because I didn't the level to....
After Teiki came in the water: OUCH, tubes, 1,20 high aerial. I have room for improvement.
Hum seems fast with boiling sand ? It is...
Created: Sunday July 11 2010 05:43:51 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:43:55 PM
Saturday July 10 2010 10:10:00 AM
Fun session at full low tide - soft mushy waves and not much more in the sets - 30-40 people out but spread out and the waves were breaking all over the place so no crowding on any 'peak'.
Eric was out in his sea kayak again... doing well in the surf given the kayak is way too long and not at all adapted for surf.
Created: Saturday July 10 2010 10:35:48 PM
Modified: Saturday July 10 2010 10:35:48 PM
Saturday July 10 2010 08:00:00 AM
The swell was not clean: bumpy, multipeak and sometimes powerful. It was the first real test of my new 6'4". It worked perfectly: easy to paddle, safe for turns, fast. I had thanks to this board a good session where everything told it will be a bad session.
However, I need to progress to surf better this board: I falled on some turs because I was too much on my front foot.
Created: Sunday July 11 2010 05:32:05 PM
Modified: Sunday July 11 2010 05:32:05 PM
Thursday July 8 2010 02:00:00 PM
What a session ! I was really disappointed at the parking because I have forgotten my wetsuit. It was the first time ever it happened in 20 years of surf. I crossed the dunes: the surf was just perfect. Long tubular 1.5m waves cranked on the sand bank with only one surfer.
Nethermind, I jumped into the water with my trunks. It was not so cold. I surfed 2 hours (one hour, then I went out for 30mn because I was frozen the I came back).
The waves were really fast but surfable ! I surfed alone for one hour on this perfect left with colors of Bali.At the end, the swell rose up, the north wind get stronger and the current was insane: the session was over.
A good session
The same day just one hour after, at an other spot but this was this type waves I had !
Created: Sunday July 11 2010 05:27:00 PM
Modified: Sunday July 11 2010 06:03:54 PM
Wednesday July 7 2010 12:00:00 PM
Created: Thursday July 8 2010 10:30:16 PM
Modified: Thursday July 8 2010 10:30:16 PM
Wednesday July 7 2010 09:00:00 AM
Small swell but nice and clean with occasional walls lining up, not crowded.
Eric took hi sea kayak out for the first time in surf (not bad for someone with a broken back!!!!)
Created: Saturday July 10 2010 10:39:04 PM
Modified: Saturday July 10 2010 10:39:04 PM
Sunday July 4 2010 09:00:00 AM
I expected a good session: 2m onshore with nearly no wind. But in fact, it was just bad: mushy close outs with a lot of current. Even Le Gurp didn't work well.
I get some fun turns with my new 6'4" but it was the only good point of this poor session.
Created: Sunday July 4 2010 07:23:43 PM
Modified: Sunday July 4 2010 07:23:43 PM
Friday July 2 2010 06:30:00 PM
Back from the spanish part of the Basque country to Hendaye on a small day. Surf schools all along the break, seems to be a conference of all surf instructors within a radius of 100 kms. We had to give more attension on not to kill a kook but looking out for waves.
Created: Wednesday October 5 2011 04:09:33 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 5 2011 04:09:33 PM
Wednesday June 30 2010 09:59:20 PM
Created: Wednesday June 30 2010 10:01:12 PM
Modified: Wednesday June 30 2010 10:01:12 PM
Wednesday June 30 2010 10:00:00 AM
Unbelievable crowds on a ordinary wednesday at end of june.
Each break was packed with riders so it was not fun, only hassle.
Created: Wednesday October 5 2011 03:45:14 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 5 2011 03:45:14 PM
Sunday June 27 2010 08:43:15 PM
The beach is protected from north/west swells resulting in very small waves during summertime. I went in only to get wet.
Created: Tuesday July 13 2010 09:47:33 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 13 2010 09:47:33 PM
Sunday June 27 2010 10:00:00 AM
Created: Tuesday June 29 2010 02:35:47 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 29 2010 02:35:47 PM
Saturday June 26 2010 06:45:00 AM
I was sick but I went in the water. Waves were very small at first but get better with the low tide (unusual here...)
But I was exhausted at this time.
Swop shaper on a mini simmons
Created: Sunday June 27 2010 08:35:39 PM
Modified: Sunday June 27 2010 08:35:39 PM
Friday June 25 2010 02:30:00 PM
I got my new board for medium to solid swell: a 6'4" Simon Anderson model Mollusc.
I just jumped in the water to try it in a bad shorebreak. The board was better than expected. Comfortable to paddle and VERY reactive ! I hope for bigger swells !!
Created: Sunday June 27 2010 08:49:36 PM
Modified: Sunday June 27 2010 08:50:46 PM
Friday June 25 2010 08:45:00 AM
I went to Capbreton to get my new simon anderson board and stop to Messages. I didn't expected good waves. But it was good !! punchy and fast.
Check the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIUVZx8yTd0
Created: Sunday June 27 2010 08:13:21 PM
Modified: Sunday June 27 2010 08:20:18 PM