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Surf session counter: 3982
Tuesday October 12 2010 12:30:00 PM
Created: Tuesday October 12 2010 05:03:51 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 12 2010 05:03:51 AM
Monday October 11 2010 12:00:00 AM
Thought i would drive to miserys with a few mates, curious to see what it was like, we got down to the beach but couldnt see any waves in the corner, we wandered down the beach to check it out and saw an awesome mini wedge come through with a sick side wash ride into a huge wall where the waves collided an finished with a hollow shallow barrel at the end. We raced to the car and got are wetties on and gear, flung down to the beach again and charged this spot for ages, Awesome shaped wedges formed every where and we were having a sick time getting little speed of the side wash flying up the wedge and the launching down the beach in a tube!! Sick Day...
Created: Tuesday October 12 2010 03:26:00 PM
Modified: Tuesday October 12 2010 03:26:00 PM
Sunday October 10 2010 08:50:00 AM
You are never desappointed at Le Gurp ! The swell was smaller than yesterday but the lefts were just perfect and fast. I got long walls to surf with big drops. I think it will be the biggest waves I can surf with my 6'4". If bigger I will nedd my 6'8".
Created: Sunday October 10 2010 02:11:08 PM
Modified: Sunday October 10 2010 02:11:08 PM
Saturday October 9 2010 04:30:00 PM
The swell was good but 6 hours after our morning session with a full low tide: we got the full high tide !! I continued my training of tubing even I couldn't go out.
Created: Saturday October 9 2010 04:06:34 PM
Modified: Saturday October 9 2010 04:06:34 PM
Friday October 8 2010 09:00:00 AM
The tide was too low with a 110 coeff. Waves closed out. But I got 2 good tubes with a real good one: long, large and fast ! I will remember it !
Created: Saturday October 9 2010 04:03:15 PM
Modified: Saturday October 9 2010 04:03:15 PM
Sunday October 3 2010 09:30:00 AM
It was the good spot on the coast but it was not perfect. I got good waves though
Created: Saturday October 9 2010 03:51:24 PM
Modified: Saturday October 9 2010 03:51:45 PM
Friday October 1 2010 07:00:00 AM
After surfing for 4 hours at Ray Bay on small fun peaks early Wednesday morning with the girls, drove down to Cardiff By The Sea, to Kansas City John's timeshare. We found a great local Mexican restaurant to eat, had Tomato Florentine soup, Fillet Million with Mahi Mahi, sautéed mushrooms and a baked potato for $25 ... Yum, Yum! Awoke at dawn to early morning rain. Drove down to Cardiff Reef. Clean 4-6 foot peaks way way outside. Kind a cross between C Street and Lowers with sand. You walk out on a sand bottom until the first line of white water then the bottom becomes flat rock. You take off left or right on a rock boil and its a clean throwing peak like Lowers, but the shoulder closes out on a sand bar. Pretty crowded. Let the locals have the overhead sets and snapped up half a dozen quality smaller peaks. After I came in stood in the rain, no showers, then out of nowhere, a bolt of lightning Zap hit the weather vane on the big house on the hill in the Surfiner shot, time to get the hell out of Dodge!
Created: Monday October 4 2010 08:59:06 PM
Modified: Monday October 4 2010 08:59:06 PM
Wednesday September 29 2010 08:30:00 AM
I love septembre and I love La Jenny. I got fun waves to surf and got small tubes. I worked my backside grabrail and discover what was wrong.
We were 5 on the peak even in the middle of the week.
Created: Thursday October 7 2010 09:32:48 PM
Modified: Saturday October 9 2010 03:45:20 PM
Sunday September 26 2010 08:30:00 AM
Created: Tuesday September 28 2010 12:00:53 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 28 2010 12:00:53 PM
Saturday September 25 2010 02:30:00 PM
Created: Tuesday September 28 2010 11:58:01 AM
Modified: Tuesday September 28 2010 11:58:01 AM
Saturday September 18 2010 10:00:06 AM
Created: Saturday September 18 2010 08:28:59 PM
Modified: Saturday September 18 2010 08:28:59 PM
Saturday September 18 2010 09:00:00 AM
Petite session sympa avec un fort courant de nord. Il fallait y rester au pic!!!!
Created: Saturday September 18 2010 12:24:20 PM
Modified: Saturday September 18 2010 12:24:20 PM
Saturday September 18 2010 08:30:00 AM
It's the end of the summer... The weather starts to be cold. Waves were short and hollow. After 40mn the currents were strong and waves get worse.
Not a good session even I took some good ones.
Created: Sunday September 19 2010 09:48:33 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:48:33 PM
Thursday September 16 2010 09:00:00 AM
Created: Friday September 17 2010 04:49:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday March 23 2011 10:21:05 PM
Wednesday September 15 2010 08:30:00 AM
We started to drive at 7:15 and arrived in the water at 8:0. The day was beautiful: a classic september session.
Waves were powerful and a bit cloe out. BUT 50% were opening... 1.5, sometimes more, of hollow walls. SWOP wanted to take some photos with my fish. Gloups ! I didn't want to go with my too small board in these monsters....
I went with the fish. I got incredible waves: one was a hollow drop them a thick lip on 20 meter in front of me, backside...and I passed through !!! The board was great...
after 1h30 with the fish, I decide to take the 6'4" because I was exhausted. And the party was still on ! lefts and rights !
What a day !
Created: Wednesday September 15 2010 10:19:18 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:45:46 PM
Saturday September 11 2010 07:45:00 AM
A good session to remember !
First peak: we were just 3 then 6 (with 3 longboards). Thanks to the guys, the longboarders were very polite and didn't take all the waves ! I took fun tubes and a long one... My fish is a good board !
After 3:30, I went to the other peak (was a little better) to salute Swop. But the atmospher ewas very very bad because 2 or 3 stupid surfers. One of them even hit my board: I have to repair it !
Created: Sunday September 12 2010 10:15:01 AM
Modified: Sunday September 12 2010 10:15:01 AM
Friday September 10 2010 08:30:00 AM
Created: Sunday September 12 2010 06:16:05 PM
Modified: Sunday September 12 2010 06:16:05 PM
Friday September 10 2010 08:00:00 AM
Powerful and multipeak. Hard to surf but beautiful drops. With the low tide, it has stopped to work. A good session but not the best sandbank.
Created: Sunday September 12 2010 10:08:41 AM
Modified: Sunday September 12 2010 10:08:41 AM
Wednesday September 8 2010 09:02:24 PM
08.09.10 was a big wednesday for me: my first wave :-)
spot: punta blanca
pay attention to the reef
Created: Friday September 24 2010 09:05:55 PM
Modified: Friday September 24 2010 09:05:55 PM
Sunday September 5 2010 12:00:00 PM
It was a classic session: 1.5m, glassy and a good sandbank. A little crowded but the atmosphere was good and everyone got his waves. It's the first time I really test my newfish: good but a little too heavy.
I went out for lunch with the girls then came back in the water. The peak stayed good despite the small onshore wind
Created: Sunday September 5 2010 05:48:13 PM
Modified: Sunday September 5 2010 05:48:13 PM
Saturday September 4 2010 10:00:00 AM
Le Porge closed out so we went (Gaby, Fred and Loig) up North. We stopped at Montalivet. Waves were powerless but surfable. Everything was wrong for me: my back foot was sliding and I couldn't surf my new board very well, I lost my two lens and didn't saw very well the set coming...
I got 2 really good waves. Better than nothing.
On the return, I bought a pad. It's a pity for the decoration of the board !
Created: Sunday September 5 2010 05:41:19 PM
Modified: Sunday September 5 2010 05:41:19 PM
Friday September 3 2010 08:34:56 PM
I'm a novice so cotillo looks quite hard for me but a lot of fun there :-)
Created: Friday September 24 2010 08:38:18 PM
Modified: Friday September 24 2010 08:38:18 PM
Friday September 3 2010 02:00:00 AM
session nickel avec un peu lachine à l'eau entre 9h00 et 12h00
Created: Saturday September 4 2010 06:13:57 PM
Modified: Saturday September 4 2010 06:13:57 PM
Thursday September 2 2010 10:07:06 PM
Hurricane Earl produced some good sized swells early with offshore winds.Long lines with big walls. Earl packed a punch. Turned onshore later in the day but still plenty of swell. Surfed Flagler early and North Shore Park(old ormond pier) Later in the day. Fun Day!
Created: Friday September 3 2010 10:19:52 PM
Modified: Friday September 3 2010 10:19:52 PM
Thursday September 2 2010 03:53:05 PM
Created: Tuesday September 14 2010 03:54:38 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 14 2010 03:54:38 PM
Tuesday August 31 2010 12:01:37 PM
Was in Portugal for a short Holiday and figured i'd get a good surf while I was there... Went down to Gale beach which was a short walk from our appartment and tried to see if there was somewhere to rent a surf board.. (even a foamy would have done) but no.. in the full stretch of beach, Which is I dont know how many miles long there was no where to rent. There was a surfer worked at the pedalo rental thing and after asking him where I could rent a surf board apparently the nearest place was the west coast. So in desperation I went to a local sports shop and bought a body board just so I could catch some sort of wave.
Headed straight to the beach and caught some good waves.. both left and right handers.. not quite the same as surfing but better than nothing. Waves got a bit dumpy at high tide due to the steep shore line. Hopefully will be able to head to the west coast next time im in Portugal. either that or fork out to bring my boards with me.
Created: Friday August 12 2011 12:29:16 PM
Modified: Friday August 12 2011 12:29:16 PM
Saturday August 28 2010 09:00:00 AM
I just came back yesterday evening but I saw that It will be my only chance to surf this week. An dI have Kaifu in mind: I need to surf with more engagement if I want to score tubes...
The swell was onshore but surfable and with power. It was better than I thought and I tested to take off more inside than usual.
As the tide got lower, the waves were hollower. My 6'4" is just a dream !
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 10:21:00 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 08:54:39 PM
Wednesday August 25 2010 09:48:23 PM
Realy good session, nice and sunny with a light offshore breeze. The tide was just going out when we got there. Surfed to the left as you had down the pretty steep path. Initially only a couple of other surfers in the water when we arrived. A few more came a little later, but you could hardly call it crowded! There we some nice waves coming through with the odd 6 footer thrown in to keep it interesting! First time I have surfed Cayton Bay when it is not either really small or closing out. What a great beach break! Need to get some booties next though, after an hour and a half my feet were starting to get pretty cold. All in all a good morning surfing, shame work had to go and spoil it!
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:59:10 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:59:10 PM
Monday August 23 2010 01:43:47 AM
midtide out-going. Not bad! Fun rights, and a friendlier left (also mushy) for the beginners nearer the island.
I went out with Flo, his second session of the day. And he actually went out for a 3rd. Who else had 3 surfs today... um... Stanti, yeah! Stanti and Stanzi's last night:(
Tomorrow, smaller, time to GoPro!
Created: Monday August 23 2010 01:53:24 AM
Modified: Monday August 23 2010 01:53:24 AM
Thursday August 19 2010 08:57:04 PM
I just had a great week of surf in Guatemala at El paredon surfcamp. I was lucky with the waves. Everyday sunshine and at nights sometimes a shower. No crowd at all and beside surfing i realeased some baby turttles, reading in a hammock, hanging out with the other guests and some locals. the beach is excellent for running or walking. I am a beginner but i had really fun riding some waves!
Created: Thursday August 19 2010 09:01:48 PM
Modified: Thursday August 19 2010 09:01:48 PM
Thursday August 19 2010 02:28:52 PM
Une session très courte sur Bali. Après avoir été voir Uluwatu et manger là bas, on est passé par Padang Padang et finalement choisi Dreamland pour les enfants. Parking payant 15.000 Rp et loc excessive; ils demandaient 200.000 Rp pour 1h de surf; j'ai finalement eu le prix Lombokien à 50.000 mais ils n'étaient pas très cool.
Dreamland est un shore break, ça casse au large sur du sable avec de gros remous. J'ai trouvé la vague très molle et avec la 6'6'' galette de loc que j'avais, c'était même pas la peine :-(
Created: Friday August 20 2010 04:33:32 AM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:34:08 AM
Wednesday August 18 2010 03:46:02 PM
Je suis parti à la rame du bord, à côté de Puri Nusa. C'est long! Je dirais qu'il y a bien 700 m voir plus. La passe est marquée par un drapeau rouge qu'il faut laisser sur babord. De l'autre côté, sur le reef, il y a pas mal de poteaux en bois.
Je suis arrivé au peak un peu fatigué, avec ma 6'4'' de location... et bien pour un gros 2m50, c'était un peu léger! Il y avait une dizaine d'Ozies à l'eau avec un super niveau qui se gavaient. Bref, à moins de partir plus à l'inside qu'eux, c'était pas simple de se caler pour en prendre une!
J'en ai pris une moyenne de 2m environ, fait trois ou quatre virages et je me suis retrouvé un peu près du reef. Assis sur la planche, les pieds touchaient! Bref, c'est une vague assez chaude et il ne faut pas trop la faire durer car au fond, il n'y a vraiment pas d'eau du tout.
Je ne sais pas si c'est sur cette vague ou la suivante mais j'ai fini par casser ma dérive tribord. Je ne m'en suis pas aperçu tout de suite; ça devait être sur une vague où je me suis fait boiter. Ca explique aussi les deux ou trois gamelles qui ont suivies... essayez de surfer une droite bien creuse sans dérive tribord!!!!!
Le soleil se couchait et j'ai pas trop traîné pour rentrer, on commençait à plus trop voir où il fallait passer pour rentrer!
Created: Thursday August 19 2010 02:00:36 AM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:28:28 AM
Monday August 16 2010 03:54:06 PM
Created: Thursday August 26 2010 03:55:02 PM
Modified: Thursday August 26 2010 03:55:02 PM
Monday August 16 2010 11:00:00 AM
I was back in Komatsu (Japan sea) after the Shikoku travel. A classic meteo situation occured: a WSW wind flow in the Japan sea passed off Komatsu but straight into Noto Hanto. No swell in Komatsu but will there be in Noto Hanto ?
We went by car in one hour only which was the first good surprise. I found at Shibagaki a fun beach break to surf. Nothing special but enoughto do the move. There are also 2 good reef breaks around and I will check them in my next trip.
The session confirms the good potentil of Japan: not as good as in France but there is enough to surf.
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 10:08:22 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:08:22 AM
Sunday August 15 2010 09:41:10 PM
On 2 days, only 1 other guy out each day. 3rd day all to myself. A bit of a wait between sets, like a southswell lull. Took my 11 yr old daughter out here for learning in consistent, glassy 3' waves, she freaked out when she saw all the blowfish. There really is a lot of them here. Rocks are also full of urchins. Surfed at the eastern end of the beach where you can walk in on sand and the reef/rocks in the line-up are consistently at least 3' deep.
Created: Sunday August 22 2010 10:11:42 PM
Modified: Sunday August 22 2010 10:11:42 PM
Saturday August 14 2010 05:34:02 PM
Not a bad combo. Fun to bring out the cortez and the NSPs. We have a new addition to the quiver. An 8'O that's been getting all the attention. Haven't had a go on it yet, since my last experience with our longest board, a 7'2" ended bad. I tried to stay on when I should have fallen... People don't do a layback on big board for a reason 'cause when you don't make it, and the board is still in the wave, it can push straight at your back and it hurts!
I'm fine, tho it was a bit scarry to have backpains in the water...
Anyway the 6'10" was fun enough, and we are looking at 2 flat days, but if the wind is on, we would have some wind chop to surf, which is why we love galicia!
Created: Sunday August 15 2010 05:37:58 PM
Modified: Sunday August 15 2010 05:37:58 PM
Tuesday August 10 2010 02:39:04 PM
Created: Sunday August 15 2010 02:43:51 PM
Modified: Sunday August 15 2010 02:43:51 PM
Tuesday August 10 2010 09:49:16 AM
We were going up north to finish our traval in Shikoku. We passed on the road along a "bad" spot of the area. But I was surprised to see this waves and I just jumped for few minutes to take some of them. (as my family was waitind, I just had few minutes).
In 15min I took 5 waves (a performance with 60 surfers on 2 peaks): as the swell was south, the spot was pretty good.
Note: there are some waves on the opposite island
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM
Tuesday August 10 2010 05:30:00 AM
Kaifu ! It's maybe the mos tfamous japanese spot. It's the rivermouth standard. On a big swell, it's a long hollow right. On a medium or small size, it's a slab on a sand/gravel bar. You have a 1.5m to 2m peak on a no more than 1m deep water: I have done several freefalls and I could stand up on the sand bar with the water at my hips...
There are a fierce competition here with very good / professionnal surfers in the water. Hopefully, the conditions were pretty mellow (for the standard here !!!) and we were only 3 at the beginning.
I took 10 waves but I surfed well only 4 of them. I didn't have this sensation since Tahiti: I didn't have the level to surf this spot well. The waves were too fast and too hollow for me. It was the first time I felt that my wonderful fish Maurice Cole was not the good board: too small and too wide... I felt I didn't have enough engagement. And it was just a bad day for locals!!!
It's just a wonderful incredible wave !
this peak of me shows how incredible is the wave. It's only a small swell, 1,20m, but with the wonderful sandbank and the rip, it turned into a hollow big and powerful wave, very hard to take. If you are a good surfer you can tube at nearly every wave.
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:48:41 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:23:42 AM
Monday August 9 2010 03:00:00 PM
10 years ago, I have bought the japanese surf spots atals. As it was in japanese, I just saw the photos. I remarked a photo with no mention of a beautiful surf spot. It was a dream, the type of dream wich make you travel. I didn't even knew where it was...except it was a reef in Shikoku.
We passed at this reef this afternoon at low tide: there was no wave but I recognized the landscape. It was Takegashima ! We went to do snorkelling and the tideraised up. When I came back to quit the area, I saw a small wave with a surfer. I jumped in the water via the etrapods and surf it.
The surf was far than exceptionnal but as it's a reef, the wave really surfable. And the water was so clear. And the landscape was beautiful. And I was so far from home. I just enjoyed so much this session. The other guy was a japanese on a single. A fierce local. But after 30mn, as I kept a low profile, we started to speak. He explained me that the spot is usually totally crowded.
The wave got better with the rising tide. I had to come back.
Created: Thursday August 26 2010 01:15:19 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:33:25 AM
Monday August 9 2010 05:30:00 AM
Again Ozaki early in the morning but surfers are already there...
Waves were better than yesterdeay but this spot has nothing to be compared to Monobe.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM
Sunday August 8 2010 04:00:00 PM
We stopped at Ozaki in a pension 200m from the spot (tokumasu pension). It's a beachbrea and it's crowded with surfers from Osaka. The beach is the same that thoses I have seen in Tahiti: black sand, green mountain fallen directly into the sea, peaky waves.
I was surprised: 20% are girls and they surfed better than me !!
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:04:06 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:06:26 AM
Sunday August 8 2010 08:40:22 AM
I knew Monobe was good. I didn't have any forecasts but I wake up at 4:45 and drive 30mn to Monobe. Will it be better than yesterday ? swell, no swell ? localism ?
When I arrived, it was A-Frame ! with already surfers in water. The left was better than yesterday. I started the session with only 2 surfers wich is incredible in Japan for this spot.
I took around 15 waves and because of the rip, I just surfed 1:15. What a session ! The morning lights with the tropical storms were amazing. The other surfers started to talk after 30mn (the regular asianobservation...)
Even if I will not surf more in Japan this year, I was very happy to have found this quality of waves.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:51:12 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:56:40 AM
Sunday August 8 2010 01:00:41 AM
Created: Monday August 9 2010 10:00:00 AM
Modified: Monday August 9 2010 03:46:04 PM
Saturday August 7 2010 12:50:29 PM
Created: Saturday August 7 2010 12:55:59 PM
Modified: Saturday August 7 2010 12:55:59 PM
Saturday August 7 2010 12:35:22 PM
Created: Friday August 13 2010 12:36:33 PM
Modified: Friday August 13 2010 12:36:33 PM
Saturday August 7 2010 05:15:00 AM
I was visiting Japan since ten days mainly in the mountains of Shikoku, far from the shore, far from internet and the forecasts. It was the first day we were near the shore. We were driving to our hotel at the end of the day when I decided to see the very first spot on the road. I didn't even knew that Monobe was a major rivermouth spot of Japan. I didn't even knew where the wave was.
It situated at the end of the airport. I climbed on the jetty and, surprise, there were waves. Not good waves but punchy waves. No surfers. In fact, it was the beginning of the first typhoon swell of august.
I started to surf, a little afraid because of the very strong rip from the rivermouth. Why there was no surfer ? Waves were very hard to take, steepy, shallow, sand and boulders. Then some surfers appeared. I has been blocked underwater after a reentry : the wave is just powerful !
The landscape of mountains in the summer is incredible. After the session, I realized that this spot is a difficult and famous one and I was lucky to havesome waves here alone.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:20:17 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:05:45 AM
Friday August 6 2010 04:29:37 PM
Une seule session sur Lombok; de passage en famille près de Kuta Lombok... On s'est arrêté à Grupuk. Il y avait là à peu près tous les surfeurs de Kuta, à croire que c'est le seul spot du coin (à Kuta, c'était un peu torchon, faut avouer). J'ai croisé James et Rob, deux Anglais qui arrivaient de Kuta et on a partagé le bateau. Un bon quart d'heure pour rejoindre la vague. Il y avait une bonne dizaine de surfeurs à l'eau, mais c'était ok. J'ai pris 11 vagues de 2M+. Puissants, de bons murs au take off! La vague est rapide mais pas trop. Au fond des rochers et des algues; je me suis fait rouler une ou deux fois; c'est noir mais il y a de l'eau. Une vague "safe". Une belle session avec soleil couchant et des mecs cool à l'eau.
Created: Sunday August 8 2010 04:36:00 PM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:28:41 AM
Tuesday August 3 2010 11:56:44 PM
Media Marea subiendo, dos picos bien definidos, derecha e izquierda, sin viento, serie potente en la orilla. El mejor dia del verano.
Created: Wednesday August 4 2010 12:00:55 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 4 2010 12:00:55 AM
Monday August 2 2010 06:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:29:35 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:30:05 PM