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Surf session counter: 3918
Monday July 9 2007 05:18:51 PM
Created: Monday July 9 2007 05:18:54 PM
Modified: Monday July 9 2007 05:18:54 PM
Monday July 9 2007 05:17:51 PM
Created: Monday July 9 2007 05:17:55 PM
Modified: Monday July 9 2007 05:17:55 PM
Monday July 9 2007 05:15:51 PM
Created: Monday July 9 2007 05:16:38 PM
Modified: Monday July 9 2007 05:16:38 PM
Sunday July 8 2007 03:00:00 PM
Created: Monday July 9 2007 01:08:31 PM
Modified: Monday July 9 2007 01:08:31 PM
Sunday July 8 2007 12:00:00 PM
Created: Sunday July 29 2007 07:10:47 PM
Modified: Sunday July 29 2007 07:10:47 PM
Sunday July 8 2007 06:36:42 AM
Surfed south side of pier. there was some really fun peaks coming through, a couple of barrels to be had and definitely some faces to play on.
Created: Wednesday July 11 2007 06:38:52 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 11 2007 06:38:52 PM
Saturday July 7 2007 10:33:49 PM
Created: Friday July 6 2007 10:57:31 PM
Modified: Friday July 6 2007 10:57:31 PM
Saturday July 7 2007 05:00:00 PM
Created: Monday July 9 2007 01:06:48 PM
Modified: Monday July 9 2007 01:06:48 PM
Saturday July 7 2007 03:00:00 PM
Después de 3 meses, el hijo regresa a la madre.
Como todo buen hijo, lo primero es guardarle un poco de respeto y como toda madre, responde con una cachetada.
Así fue la primera sesion de la temporada inverno 07, una desgracia, pero sabiendo que no puede ser peor, así que solo queda mejorar.
PD: el wetsuit es un éxito
Created: Monday July 9 2007 07:10:31 AM
Modified: Monday July 9 2007 07:10:31 AM
Saturday July 7 2007 11:30:00 AM
First session for Kro, my cousin from Florida. Not good conditions to start (windy, bad waves, short board) but it was fun; she just tried to catch some waves (froth).
Ludo did some pictures; I'll try to attach some later.
Created: Saturday July 7 2007 10:32:53 PM
Modified: Saturday July 5 2008 12:10:37 PM
Saturday July 7 2007 08:00:00 AM
Ouch, I have broken my magical board! It was maybe the first real swell since 2 monthes. Waves were around 1.5m with some bigger sets at 2m. The current was pretty strong and the sandbanks have moved a little.
I managed to keep some waves: left were hollow and fast. Rights were easier to surf. I took a good right but when I paddled back, a bigger set was closed and I was just in the impact zone. This swell was long and more powerful thant it seem from the beach. When I get back my board: it was broken !! Even if I had a second board, I was so desappointed that I just came back... I went to Lacanau and I found the same board hopefully!
Created: Sunday July 8 2007 11:38:11 AM
Modified: Sunday July 8 2007 11:42:31 AM
Friday July 6 2007 05:29:16 PM
Paddled out at Secos on my way home from work. I normally like to ride my 7'9" here but I only had my shortboard with me. Oh well, I paddled out into a fairly crowdedline-up. then again...3 people at Leo can be crowded depending on how consistent the wave is. I saw the regular crew of longboarders and I managed to pick of some waves even with the shortboard. It was ok, nothing eppic, bui fun.
Created: Wednesday July 11 2007 06:35:53 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 11 2007 06:35:53 PM
Friday July 6 2007 10:00:00 AM
Created: Saturday July 7 2007 12:34:23 PM
Modified: Saturday July 7 2007 12:34:23 PM
Friday July 6 2007 06:30:00 AM
The 4th of July: Independence Day is upon us tomorrow with the largest fireworks display south of the Mississippi (have your kids spell that one) down at "Surf City" Huntington Beach, Steel Pier. PCH closed from 7PM to 11PM and traffic will be a bloody nightmare!
Temp this morning at 9AM was a sizzling 90F water temp 70F with big combo mix of SE Hurricane/SW Southern Hemi ground swell and NW wind swells. My ex pat Sydney mate Stuart Blake (Bruce) and I were out at northside Seal Pier by 6:30AM DST to beat the crowd ... bigger than yesterday with overhead sets but not as good shape ... a little walled out.
The swells all merge into big peaks that refract off the pier breakwall into what we call "Harvey Wall Bangers". The wave suddenly jumps up to one and a half times its size like The Wedge" at Newport ... you free fall down the face and if you make the drop your in a cannon barrel churning over the shallow inside sand bar!
Yesterday picked off a beauty ... paddled outside as a big set popped up off the end of the pier ... let the first couple go to clear out traffic and the shortboarders hanging out inside ... spun around and stroked in hard as a shoulder high peak jumped to head high ... dropped in at an angle, top turned laying the board on its sidebites, thrusting out and up with the peak feathering over my head and pumped up and down from the middle of the face racing the barrel as we hit the inside sandbar ... yeah! A shortboarder inside was most impressed ... "cool that was a standup tube dude"!
This morning the word was out the swell was building so did the crowd but got lucky and was in position to pick up a giant outside peak that rolled through the middle section ... thought twice but had to paddle in to it, late take off or not... everyone inside was yelling go! go! go! ... take off was like jumping off a roof ... barely made the drop without getting buried under a ton of white water, carefully carved up and down the face until it reared into a nasty wall and discretion being the better part of valour straightened down and out hard!
Bruce said "that one was a bit steep thought you were history mate"!
PS Not as big as the pix above but fun, fun, fun ... who says there are no super waves at Seal!
Pour vodka and orange juice into a collins glass over ice cubes and stir. Float galliano on top and serve.
Created: Friday July 6 2007 08:10:25 AM
Modified: Saturday July 7 2007 02:10:21 AM
Thursday July 5 2007 04:00:00 PM
So there I was, paddling for my life, wondering if I was going to make it out of this alive. A huge wave was welling up on the horizon, and here I was, paddling for my life, making my arms push themselves as deep into the water as I could, trying to maintain the long, slow strokes that would keep me in trim, doing anything I could to reduce as much drag as possible, trying my best to maintain the momentum. I was not entirely sure if I was going to make it, but sheer will was making me push forward, as I was determined NOT to get dumped on by this monster of a wave. Meanwhile, in my head, I kept telling myself that I need to remain calm and collected. I was practically screaming this to myself over and over, on the brink of sheer panic, yet I knew if I gave into that impulse, i would be totally fucked.
So I paddled and I paddled, having that horrible feeling that I was not actually going anywhere. It reminds me of those nightmares I have occasionally, you know, the ones where you're running from something, but you cant move or you're running in slow motion. The feeling is horribly similar to just that. However, I was moving, and FAST. Those long, slow strokes paid off as I finally reached this goliath of a wave, just as it was just starting to well up. The relief I felt was short lived as I realized I hadn't yet made it out of the drop zone. My arms were so tired, I felt like they were lead weights, yet I forced myself to keep going with the same momentum.
This monster was welling up like nothing I had ever experienced before. As I paddled, I got the feeling that I was trying to paddle up a fucking mountain. This monster of a wave just kept on going FOREVER, the more I paddled, the higher it got, or so it seemed. I couldn't even see the top of this thing, all I saw was the face of the most enormous mutha fucker of a wave that I had ever been on.
This was the shit I had been striving for all summer, this was the real shit, the big time. The little ripples I had conqured over at Bay Street last summer, that made me feel like such a bad ass, were NOTHING compared to this shit right here. This was what I had been pushing my self all summer for. This was the reason I was black and blue all over, taking beating after beating, forcing myself beyond those fears and hang ups that I felt were holding me back.
Self doubt started seeping into my mind, as I started thinking to myself, "do I REALLY have ANY business being out here right now?" I couldn't help but question myself, for the ocean that was so calm, not an hour before, took on an angry, menacing look as these monsters just rose out of the sea, seemingly out of nowhere.
At last, I had made it to the top, triumphant, as I shot myself up and over the peak, victoriously. I felt on top of the world, well literally, since the wave was so huge, that I felt as if I were teetering on top of a two story building as I gracefully soared up and over the wave, as it crashed down, behind me in the distance, with an thunderous roar, that was a bit unsettling to say the least.
There were more monsters coming in like this. I started to feel a bit sea sick as the ocean was churning, as the wind picked up and added a slight chop to the already challenging conditions.
That was probably the worst of it. those sets of gynormous waves came in for about a half hour, or an hour or so, then let up a bit to more reasonable conditions. Well, reasonable for me, anyway. I'm sure everyone else out there was loving it. I couldn't really tell, seeing as how, for a good part of that time, all I saw were huge waves all around, as I bobbed around to and fro, passing up wave after wave, waiting for one that was a bit more reasonable, as I asked myself, "I don't have a death wish, now do I?"
So off in the distance, I see one, I know it's the one. Looks kind of big, but after that whole fiasco I just experienced, I was like, fuck it, it's coming right to me, I'm gonna go for it! So I get myself all nice and ready, I start paddling...Then I glance back over my shoulder, and doubt starts creeping in. I'm a bit further inside than I should be, (I was trying something new that day, after some great advice from a friend, but that's a whole other story) as I realize this wave is gonna break a bit sooner than the others. But I can't turn back now, it's too late, so I decide that the only thing I can do is go for it. I know that if I hesitate, it's gonna be all over for me. So I paddle and paddle and paddle, and you know what? I caught it and rode it all the way in. It was fucking unbelievable. By no means was it flawless, I pretty much caught it right as it was dumping on me. It was coming in so fast that it almost knocked me off my board. I had to hang onto the rails for dear life as the rest of my body was pretty much airborne. But I just stayed with it, until I had things under control, then hopped up and had the ride of my FUCKING LIFE!
I rode this wave for what felt like FOREVER, it shot me out soooooo fast, it was unbelievable. I had this big epiphany while riding that wave. One of the areas I have been trying to perfect is my turns. I was having trouble with them before, but this time, It was no sweat. I realized that turning is a million times easier when you're being shot out at warp speed....I was having no problem turning, going left and right, just feeling it out and having a blast. I got to the shore, and leaned back, coming to a quick stop, I had things under control. :D
But then, I had to get back out there. Getting through the soup was becoming a real pain in the ass, what with the mountains welling up and the light chop and what not. But I was having a blast and wanted another one sooooooooo bad...
This time, as I paddled up another "mountain range" i realized that the shape of the waves were quite nice, they were huge, but I started noticing that there was this nice gradual incline to their face and I imagined what it would be like to be shooting down that thing, thinking that the drop might not be quite as terrifying due to the graceful curve of it's slope. I decided I wanted one of those monsters and that by the end of the day, I would be dropping down one of those fuckers, by golly!
It was decided. I was determined...
I caught some really great waves that day, however, I never did get to ride one of those huge waves I wanted so bad. I was already pretty tired out at that point, and had very little energy left in me, plus I started getting frustrated, which always fucks my shit up, I have this competitive streak in me that sometimes rears it's ugly head, and doesn't really get me anywhere. The sun was going down and I wanted one of those giants so bad, I kept getting mad, when I would paddle for one, and miss it, or pop up to soon and the wave would keep going, as I started cursing and muttering under my breath...thats always a sign that it's time for me to call it a day. When sheer frustration kicks in and takes all the fun out of it.
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That's okay I thought, tomorrow's another day, right? So I dragged my weary ass to shore. I got all my stuff together then walked back towards the other end of the beach, where I proceeded to take part in my new routine of surfing till weary, then heading back to the other end of the beach, to watch the surfers do their thang, while the sun sets in the distance. I love this time of day, it's beautiful, magical, the golden hour.
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I watched these guys glide through the waves with an effortless grace. Its an exhillerating feeling just watching really experienced surfers. Everytime I do, it reconfirms my determination to be one of those guys out there, tearing up the waves. I saw some guy surf switch right in the middle of his wave, I didn't even know you could do that! Pretty cool, I guess I can learn a thing or two just by watchin.
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It struck me how ironic the nature of surfing actually is. I mean, it can be pretty brutal at times, especially for someone at my expertise level, yet watching these guys glide through the waves, it's amazing how graceful surfing actually is. someday I'll get there, and I will look back on these blogs and laugh about the trials and tribulations it took to get to that point. These are some great days though, the days i'm gonna cherish for the rest of my life...
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To Be Continued...
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 11:00:05 PM
Modified: Saturday July 7 2007 03:32:26 AM
Thursday July 5 2007 02:00:00 PM
Created: Wednesday July 18 2007 02:10:01 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 18 2007 02:10:01 PM
Thursday July 5 2007 08:40:00 AM
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 12:41:24 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 12:41:24 PM
Thursday July 5 2007 08:20:00 AM
Created: Sunday May 3 2009 08:21:35 AM
Modified: Sunday May 3 2009 10:10:45 PM
Thursday July 5 2007 02:10:00 AM
Created: Monday October 29 2007 10:42:45 PM
Modified: Monday October 29 2007 10:42:45 PM
Wednesday July 4 2007 09:03:53 PM
The swell was a little better organized the morning of the fourth. It's alwasy great to get waves on a holiday. the bars are still not great, and the wave was a little fat, and would back off after your first turn. I took a thicker 80's shortboard out, and it was definitely the right call. Not the best session, but it was fun.
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 09:07:10 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 09:07:10 PM
Wednesday July 4 2007 08:33:27 PM
Created: Monday April 16 2007 08:36:50 PM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 08:36:50 PM
Wednesday July 4 2007 04:20:00 PM
So for the 4th, we decided to head out to my new fav spot at El Porto which was a fiasco due to road closures, but my determination was such that somehow I found our way there.
The place was PACKED. We were super lucky to even find a parking spot. The day was overcast, which was actually nice, since I tan easily and needed a break from the sun for one day. For some odd reason, there were few surfers out there compared to the last time I had been there, last Monday. Which was alright, since I was able to find a nice, empty spot at the far end, to concentrate and not worry about getting in the way of people. It looked gnarly from the shore. i saw people wiping out left and right, I was cursing myself for being such a chicken and took an extra long time to stretch, thinking i would need a good one for the beating I was about to take, and also to stall and watch the ocean, debating if I even was really willing to get out there. The sign on the lifeguard tower said 2-4 feet, some waves looked a bit bigger, and it was about two hours before low tide.
Well after stalling for a good while, there came a lull in the sets that I had been waiting for, so I paddled out. When I got out there, I was surprised to find that it wasn't nearly as bad as it had looked, which was a shocker to me, since in my experience, things always look much more mellow from the car, or even from the shore. I kept telling myself to stay calm, relaxed and to breathe deeply, which I tend to forget sometimes in my ambition to get that wave of the day. This helped so much. I was calm, collected and waited and waited. i wanted to get the day off to a good start, because getting worked first thing always fucks my shit up big time. The blow to the ego is the worst part for me, then it's usually all downhill from there.
It was my second time at El Porto, and I was really getting accustomed to the way the waves break and so forth. Finally, far off on the horizon, I saw one, not too big, not too small, and coming right to me. I started paddling and caught it, riding it all the way in. I don't think I had even gotten my hair wet at this point. But I was super proud of myself. I don't need to try to explain the feeling here, because I know you all know what that feels like, only a surfer really knows, a friend of mine once said, but that statement is oh so true. I didn't catch one quite that good for the remainder of the day, even though I was trying to...You guys know, thats one of the things that keeps us going till the sun goes down sometimes, right? But I caught a bunch, got worked a few times, but nothing to crazy scary. It was all in all a fun time.
Except, that is for the end of my session, when I heard all this commotion and saw a bunch of surfers near me start freaking out and catching the next wave to shore. I thought I heard someone yell "OH SHIT" and coulda swore someone else yelled "SHARK" and thought i saw a fin, and then something jump out of the water as everyone hightailed it back in, but there was alot of commotion going on so i cant really be sure. I almost crapped my pants, but I told myself I gotta stay calm, and caught the next wave, and even rode it in, i was so calm...But still, it was my first experience of the sort, and even though I can't be sure what really happened there, It was pretty fucking crazy. The thing is, that there were these dudes fishing about directly in front of where the surfers that were freaking out were, so it all seems kind of plausable, the ocean was empty after that except for like, two people further down. I guess it happens, never happened to me before, but I suppose I had better get used to it, being in a habitat full of creatures that call my playground home.
So we headed out as the cops were rounding everyone up, letting us know the beach was closing. Fucking El Porto, even the COPS are cool as hell there. They just went around announcing that the beach was closed and we would get locked in if we didnt split soon, instead of kicking our asses out, like most beaches i've been to. I laughed with the realization that these cops totally talked like surfers themselves, "surfing cops" I thought to myself with a chuckle, "imagine that."
We got on the 105 freeway to head home. The timing was impeccable. The firework shows were going off all around us, and the elevation of the freeway gave us a perfect 360 degree view of all the explosions. I have never been eye level with fireworks before, and I never realized just how many firework shows went off simutaniously on the 4th. It was incredible. The whole way home, we had a perfect unobstructed view of all of LA's fireworks, and it was an insainely perfect end to the day....To Be Continued...
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 10:57:12 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 10:57:12 PM
Tuesday July 3 2007 08:59:51 PM
Well there was swell in the water, and I just finished repairing my fun board, so I had to take it for a test drive in front of the house. The wind was onshore, and the bars are not that great yet, but I definitely had the right board.
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 09:02:29 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 09:02:29 PM
Tuesday July 3 2007 04:00:00 PM
This wasn't at Pismo, it was actually at Shell Beach, probably a mile down from Piso. It kinda sucked, the waves died out before I could get acclimated to the colder northern waters, and the super slow waves that would just roll in without breaking, sloooooooowwwwwwly. There were some good lefts and rights, which totally fucked me up. The LA beaches I frequent have equal opportunity waves that offer lefts and rights, but i'm gonna have to get used to that shit someday, so it's all good.
I heard they had just caught a 15 ft great white in Avila Bay, which is bout a hop, skip and a jump away from Shell Beach. Luckily, I was told this after our session, "there are sharks up here, but they don't fuck with you." my surf buddy informed me. I just laughed and was glad I was told this AFTER the fact. I guess they butchered that shark, which is horrid. Even when i get a bit freaked seeing a shaddow off in the distance, when surfing alone, or while intoxicated, I know my fears of these creatures are pretty irrational and unlikely. I read about sharks alot, to learn about the habbits of these ancient creatures, I figure the knowledge is a good measure of prevention, should the unlikely, become reality...
But i's still a shame that these powerful beasts that are the definitive Darwinism on evolution at it's finest, a creature barely evolved, for billions of years, and yet we humans freak out, even though WE are the ones encroaching on THEIR habitat, and feel the need to destroy it immediately. Its a shame. Perhaps if I saw one in the water, right next to me, I might feel different, however, I have much respect for the ocean, more so now than ever, and all the creatures in it, as scary as they may see at times, but it's nature and must be respected.
Okay, that's enough ranting from me for one day, I wanna be a writer, right? So I tend to ramble....Anyway...Stay tuned for the next enthralling chapter of "Theadora's Surf Sessions." Now it's off the the beach for some surfin, fireworks and fun. Happy 4th Everybody! Take it eazy!
To Be Continued...
Created: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:47:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:47:59 PM
Tuesday July 3 2007 01:00:00 PM
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 12:38:55 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 12:38:55 PM
Monday July 2 2007 08:40:00 PM
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 12:36:26 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 12:36:26 PM
Monday July 2 2007 04:00:00 PM
Created: Monday July 2 2007 11:41:08 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 11:41:08 PM
Monday July 2 2007 08:00:00 AM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:21:59 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:22:41 PM
Monday July 2 2007 08:00:00 AM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 03:17:25 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 03:17:25 PM
Sunday July 1 2007 07:40:40 PM
Surfed south side of the pier.
I should have dawn patrolled it, but it was still a nice day in any case. Sun was out, and beautiful weather. The water has warmed up a lot in VC, so I was kind of hot in my 4/3. It felt like I could have trunked it, but definitely a spring suit would have been better. It was a little onshore by the time I got there, but I still found some ramps to play with.
Created: Monday July 2 2007 07:43:23 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 07:43:23 PM
Sunday July 1 2007 07:00:00 PM
eu e o Vando encontramos o Carlinhos e o Gilson na frente do pico! positive vibration!!!! muita risada e vinho depois!!
Created: Monday July 2 2007 02:20:33 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 02:20:33 PM
Sunday July 1 2007 09:30:00 AM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:18:27 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:18:55 PM
Sunday July 1 2007 08:30:00 AM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 03:30:20 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 03:30:20 PM
Sunday July 1 2007 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday July 2 2007 08:15:14 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 08:15:14 PM
Sunday July 1 2007 08:00:00 AM
It was a strange session: a big swell was entring during this day.I went early in the mornign to surf before the wind turns onshore. The swell was not yet arrived and I picked only small but fun waves. Then waves get "bigger" until 1.2m but after 20mn, the wind get stonger and onshore.
This season is really bad as we only have small waves with offshore ar big mushy swells with stong onshore....
Created: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:27:48 PM
Modified: Friday July 6 2007 10:01:27 PM
Saturday June 30 2007 08:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:16:20 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:16:44 PM
Saturday June 30 2007 07:33:03 PM
Ok so the Kook at Oceanside Pier was actually me.
I drove dowwn from Ventura, and the Pacific was pretty much flat everywhere. I was visiting relatives in Oceanside, so of course I had to bring my board. So why was I a Kook. Well it was the wetsuit that gave me Kook status. I didn't realize it was already 70 plus degrees down there, and I was burning up in a 4/3 full suit. everyone else was pretty much trunking it, so I kinda stood out like a soar thumb.
The waves were not that great, but I managed to find a couple of faces to play with.
Created: Monday July 2 2007 07:39:57 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 07:39:57 PM
Saturday June 30 2007 02:30:00 PM
Created: Monday July 2 2007 02:08:33 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 02:08:33 PM
Saturday June 30 2007 01:13:18 PM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:14:23 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:14:23 PM
Saturday June 30 2007 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday July 2 2007 08:09:38 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 08:09:38 PM
Friday June 29 2007 07:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:11:54 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:14:44 PM
Friday June 29 2007 02:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:10:02 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 01:12:19 PM
Friday June 29 2007 06:45:21 AM
Created: Monday November 19 2007 10:46:19 AM
Modified: Monday November 19 2007 10:46:19 AM
Thursday June 28 2007 05:30:00 PM
Created: Monday July 2 2007 02:07:07 PM
Modified: Monday July 2 2007 02:07:07 PM