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Surf session counter: 3661
Saturday June 20 2009 12:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Three's, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: Hundreds
Length of the surf session: 7 hours
Surfboard ridden: Pyzel 5'5"
Fins: Thruster
Weather and water temp: Warm water and weather
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl
Description:
The summer of 09, What to say? I have to say the summer of 09 was the best summer I have ever had. So many swells in the 2 1/2 months I was there. Most of the time there was light wind and wave of at least 3 feet (local scale). Some days were 5 feet occ. bigger. Threes most of the summer was going off. It was the best summer of my life and I hope it is the same or better next summer.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday November 15 2009 08:38:03 PM
Modified: Sunday November 15 2009 08:38:03 PM
Hits: 580
Wednesday June 17 2009 06:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9'0" Quad
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: 62F/58F
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
Update: BIG MONDAY 6:30 AM DST "Ray Bay" San Gabriel river mouth, Seal Beach. No wind, glassy conditions and a big south swell pumping from 180 degrees. Its low tide and lines are breaking all the way from "Barracuda's" at the north break wall across middles, past "Crabs" at the south jetty. Sometimes the stars align perfectly, the 180 degree swell angle threading the needle past Santa Catalina island to allow a direct hit at Ray Bay while a few miles south its either walled out or 2-3 feet!
Breaking in three separate peaks and occasionally hooking up all the way. You had to get lucky and pick the right wave, you didn't make them all but the ones you did were the ones you remember! Strong rip currents sweeping you south and out to sea at Crabs and north into the breakwater and down river at Cuda's. Caught a big left at Cuda's and got stuck inside, had to let the white water and current pull me over to middles and paddle out from there.
My two best waves were a head high stand up barrel from middles across the low tide suck up at Crabs barely making it as the wave pounded the tail of my board knocking it sideways, and my last wave!
Even though I was riding my 9'0" Quad with a thruster set up, by 10 AM after three hours, was getting pretty tired. I decided to sit outside and wait for a big set for my taxi ride in.
Sat out there for a long time, nothing, starting to get really crowded (like 60 people stretched across the bay) the tide coming in the a sea breeze coming up. Had almost given up when I saw Deon, one of the SUP guys start stroking for the horizon. My patience paid off ... here they come, mountains rolling in!
Everyone scratching outside; paddled over the first three, each one bigger than the last, saw the SUP Deon start stroking into the shoulder of a monster. Paddled into position, up the feathering peak spun around and pushed over into a late takeoff. Took the drop, hard off the bottom, back up the face and snap off the top, just making it through a big section.
Flying down the line I saw two beginners floundering inside, one guy sitting with his back to the wave, oblivious to the 18 wheeler barreling down on him! Luckily the wave was big enough I was able to go up and over their heads. No idea what happened to them must have got really pounded. As I blew through the suck up I caught up to and was now drafting the SUP in front of me ... “Keep going” ... I yelled.
We cruised together across the wall with more beginners inside scattering inside like a school of fish in front of us. Still gliding along in the high line past the rocks at Crabs, he pulled out and I rode it all the way to the sand, almost to 2nd Street!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s48kuKLf0mE
Sunday 'Ray Bay': June Gloom, with light onshore. Waist to chest high SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms has dropped sea temps to 58F plus a cool 'Catalina Eddy' sea breeze means put away the spring suit for now! Steep take off on the peak at Middles work the boomerang across the wall then up the nose on the inside sandbar by Crabs.
Don't put your feet on the bottom ... Mr Stingy and his buddy's are everywhere!
Gangrene from a Stingray hit:
"If the antibiotics don't work its got to come off"
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 13 2009 07:47:12 PM
Modified: Saturday June 20 2009 04:24:00 AM
Hits: 679
Monday June 15 2009 04:14:29 PM
Surf spot: Anclote Island, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 25
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: short / body
Weather and water temp: 90 85
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
Nice clear water - wave were short but alot of fun. Kids bodyboarded until noodled. Strong incoming tide. Pop pop rode, too.
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:17:47 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:17:47 PM
Hits: 447
Sunday June 14 2009 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Del Monte Beach, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Length of the surf session: .5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'4" Shortboard
Fins: Thruster
Weather and water temp: Perfect and no wind
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Description:
Nothing Notta Zip Zilcho...No waves for weeks here. Getting discouraged. Hoping to catch a wave before I leave in August. We shall see...
Buddies:
Created: Friday June 19 2009 07:09:19 PM
Modified: Friday June 19 2009 07:09:19 PM
Hits: 798
Friday June 12 2009 02:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Merewether - Ladies, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: At least 20
Length of the surf session: 2.5hr hours
Surfboard ridden: 4play Ryan Hardy
Fins: n/a
Weather and water temp: sunny, 20 degrees watter temp
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Bowl
Description:
It was amazing!
first 5 waves i got, were at least 2 second barrels, made out of easily. Absoloutly amazing!
Buddies:
Created: Thursday June 25 2009 11:15:36 AM
Modified: Thursday June 25 2009 11:15:36 AM
Hits: 942
Thursday June 11 2009 08:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Andora (Liguria), Italy
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 10 +
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: BIC 9.0
Fins: SINGLE 8"
Weather and water temp: hot
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Bellissima mareggiata di inizio estate...
Onde belle, divertinti e medio lunghe...
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 16 2009 04:06:24 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 16 2009 04:06:24 PM
Hits: 497
Thursday June 11 2009 09:45:00 AM
Surf spot: Malibu, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: p carter noserider
Fins: 1
Weather and water temp: overcast 62
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Friday June 12 2009 05:01:25 AM
Modified: Friday June 12 2009 05:03:46 AM
Hits: 866
Tuesday June 9 2009 09:34:03 PM
Surf spot: Del Monte Beach, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: .5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'4" Shortboard
Fins: Thruster
Weather and water temp: Nice and Cold as always
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Description:
Just needed to get wet. Still no waves in Monterey. Almost two weeks without breaking waves. I did see two smaller guys breaking off these 1ft. high 30 ft long waves. It seemed like they could catch a 6 incher on their long boards. One of them was only about 12 and he was killing the shore brak with only white water. Inspirational for the fat guy on a short board.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday June 11 2009 09:39:00 PM
Modified: Thursday June 11 2009 09:39:00 PM
Hits: 970
Tuesday June 9 2009 06:00:00 PM
Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday June 11 2009 08:45:15 AM
Modified: Thursday June 11 2009 08:45:15 AM
Hits: 473
Tuesday June 9 2009 07:15:08 AM
Surf spot: Ollie´s Point, Costa rica
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 21
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6.3
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: sunny 25º
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 27 2009 08:46:26 PM
Modified: Saturday June 27 2009 08:46:26 PM
Hits: 1368
Monday June 8 2009 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Tre Ponti (La Scaletta), Italy
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Nb waves ridden: 50
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: BIC 9.0
Fins: SINGLE 8"
Weather and water temp: 20°
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
OTTIMA SESSIONE AI TRE PONTI, BELLE ONDE CON SPORADICHE BOMBARDE OLTREIL METRO E MEZZO.
RIPIDE E VELOCI
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 9 2009 11:21:53 AM
Modified: Tuesday June 9 2009 11:21:53 AM
Hits: 633
Sunday June 7 2009 11:12:21 AM
Surf spot: Diano Marina, Italy
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: BIC 9.0
Fins: SINGLE 8
Weather and water temp: 20°
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
SESSIONE SOTTOTONO, ONDE SPORADICHE E PICCOLINE.
FASTIDIOSO VENTO LATERALE
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 9 2009 11:15:26 AM
Modified: Thursday July 2 2009 10:22:58 AM
Hits: 541
Sunday June 7 2009 06:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Diano Marina, Italy
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 3.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: BIC 9.0
Fins: SINGLE 8"
Weather and water temp: 20°
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
BELLA SESSIONE IN GIUGNO, MOLTO VENTO LATERALE, POCHE ONDE MA DI BUONA QUALITA'.
SESSIONE BUONA
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 9 2009 11:11:39 AM
Modified: Tuesday June 9 2009 11:11:39 AM
Hits: 470
Sunday June 7 2009 01:39:26 AM
Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: Several
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9'0
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: 62F/59F
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
Stormy Weather: June Gloom, dark early morning thunder storm clouds at Ray Bay and a strong SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms and chilly onshore 'Catalina Eddy' went right through my 2M wetsuit! Some peaky overhead bombs rolling through before the wind came up and the tide filled in. BIG take offs as the swell peaked on the sand bar and jacked up from refraction off the North breakwater at Cuda's.
Janis Joplin gets TORCHED by Martha Wainright!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=FR&hl=fr&v=LOzZ20q7QC8
Started to get worried about possible lightning strikes as it started to sprinkle!
A woman was killed last week in Fontana as a bolt glanced off a tree. It blew her clothing 30 feet down the street!
FONTANA, Calif. (AP) ―
A woman has been killed by lightning in San Bernardino County, hours after another person in the county was crushed by a wind-fallen tree during heavy thunderstorms.
Fontana police Sgt. Jeff Decker says the 35-year-old woman was struck by lightning Wednesday afternoon while standing near a tree in front of a home.
Decker told the San Bernardino Sun that the victim's name has not been released.
Earlier, a woman died when a tree crushed her vehicle as she drove in the San Bernardino Mountains during a thunderstorm.
Big Bear Lake fire officials say the large pine tree, rooted near the roadside, snapped about halfway up its trunk during strong winds
Buddies:
Created: Sunday June 7 2009 01:59:34 AM
Modified: Monday June 8 2009 06:50:33 PM
Hits: 682
Saturday June 6 2009 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Seaside, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'4" Gunnery short
Weather and water temp: Nice on both
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
Back in the water feels good. Hoping to pick up a long board for these sloppy little wave.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday June 7 2009 08:10:47 PM
Modified: Sunday June 7 2009 08:10:47 PM
Hits: 857
Saturday June 6 2009 01:19:23 AM
Surf spot: Barney's, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2
Fins: Thruster
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 01:20:09 AM
Modified: Saturday June 6 2009 01:20:09 AM
Hits: 919
Saturday June 6 2009 01:14:43 AM
Surf spot: Barney's, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6"2
Fins: Thruster
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 01:16:05 AM
Modified: Saturday June 6 2009 01:16:05 AM
Hits: 756
Friday June 5 2009 12:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 10-15
Length of the surf session: 4 hours
Surfboard ridden: mini malibu 7'3''
Weather and water temp: soleil
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Premier essai de ma première planche, c'est comme un dépucelage qui aurait tourné très vite à la semi-molle à cause de la timidité du popol vis à vis de l'imperméable un peu trop serré!
Vagues shore break, t'as à peine fait ton take off que tu te retrouves dans 20 cm de flotte!!! Pas mal de frustration au début, voir d'énervement pour me raviser ensuite car les éléments sont ainsi fait! Et les quelques secondes de bonheur que m'a offert l'océan, ont été mieux considérées par mon mental, sur la deuxième moitié de session: L'occasion pour moi de carrésser cette maitresse qui me rend insatiable en ce moment, par quelques baisers volés et quelques caresses afin de lui montrer toute ma gratitude!
Sinon, en ce qui concerne le mini malibu, ben j'en suis assez content, je sens bien que c'est plus réactif que le Natural 7'9'' de la même marque, les take off et la stabilité ne sont pas plus compliqués contrairement à mon appréhension! Il y a des points qui peuvent être considérés comme négatifs ou positifs selon le point de vue ou les conditions: je pense qu'avec cette planche, il n'y aura plus de mousses (---), ce qui m'obligera désormais à aller dans le grand bain (+++)! Vu mon gabarit, juste à la limite de cette planche en tant que débutant, je prend les vagues plus tard qu'avec le natural ou le lonboard de Jéjé (---) mais ça m'oblige à travailler ma rame (+++) et me permettra d'ici peut d'avoir une carrure à la Patrick Swaze, Héhéhé, y a plus qu'à me mettre à la danse et bientôt ça sera le dancing très très dirty, attention mademoiselles!!!!
Pour résumé, cette planche va m'obliger à progresser encore plus vite, héhéhé, mais il me manquera rapidement une board un plus longue (si vous additionnez le nom et son adjectif, vous voyez très bien de quoi je parle!!!) dans mon quiver pour me faire un minimum plaisir l'été!!!
Voili voilou!
A bientôt les tontons couilleurs!
Buddies:
Created: Monday June 8 2009 10:27:25 AM
Modified: Monday June 8 2009 10:27:25 AM
Hits: 596
Friday June 5 2009 01:16:36 AM
Surf spot: Barney's, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6"2
Fins: thruster
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 01:17:33 AM
Modified: Saturday June 6 2009 01:17:33 AM
Hits: 701
Wednesday June 3 2009 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday June 4 2009 02:02:02 AM
Modified: Thursday June 4 2009 02:02:02 AM
Hits: 482
Tuesday June 2 2009 04:00:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: countless
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: Cortez 6'10", NSP 6'8", 2 beginner tankers
Weather and water temp: hot/cool
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
2nd days for the girls and riding 50m long waves! Loving the long ride at Pantin. They also learned how to use the channel and get out to the break without getting their hair wet!
Should have made some shots, but I was hanging 5 on the cortez. (OK, almost.) Flo was catching loads on the NSP. Good choice to leave the short boards at home or we would have been struggling for rides.
A small week all over but we will rip anything that we can find today! No wind!
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday June 3 2009 11:45:59 AM
Modified: Wednesday June 3 2009 11:45:59 AM
Hits: 1177
Tuesday June 2 2009 01:17:52 AM
Surf spot: D Street, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2
Fins: Thruster
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 01:18:57 AM
Modified: Saturday June 6 2009 01:18:57 AM
Hits: 761
Monday June 1 2009 01:20:54 AM
Surf spot: Pipes - San elijo state beach, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'4
Fins: Quad
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 01:21:50 AM
Modified: Saturday June 6 2009 01:21:50 AM
Hits: 667
Saturday May 30 2009 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday May 30 2009 10:52:45 PM
Modified: Saturday May 30 2009 10:52:45 PM
Hits: 726
Friday May 29 2009 09:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Length of the surf session: 1h30 hours
Surfboard ridden: natural bic 7'9''
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Moi, la board, l'océan et le coucher de soleil, on était les rois du monde!
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 2 2009 11:22:08 AM
Modified: Tuesday June 2 2009 11:22:08 AM
Hits: 539
Friday May 29 2009 07:30:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: too many to count
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9'1" Tunnel Vision
Fins: 3 - Turbo Tunnel plus 2 side
Weather and water temp: Over cast - water getting warmer
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
Today was one of those day where I was on my game. Maybe it was surfing with a group of friends again, maybe its just karma from working hard at home and at work.
Tide was pushing for high, in off the steps at Gwithers and over to play on Gillock rock, sucking little shoulder high waves which reformed on the inside if you could continue the motion - caught a couple there then moved across to the next peak - a perfect reeling right hander! I caught so many there I have difficulties remembering one specific ride. I know I was nose riding, pulling fat cutties and off the tops and on a few waves I even managed 2 floaters per wave (unheard of usually at Gwithers). Pulled a HUGE floater over my buddy Mede (sorry dude!). I landed so many moves and just burnt myself out. I'll be smiling for a day or two over that session.
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 29 2009 01:19:47 AM
Modified: Friday May 29 2009 01:19:47 AM
Hits: 1072
Friday May 29 2009 10:45:31 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 2 2009 10:48:11 AM
Modified: Tuesday June 2 2009 10:48:11 AM
Hits: 635
Written by FortBraggsurfgoddess ![]()
Thursday May 28 2009 11:49:22 PM
Surf spot: Crescent City South Beach, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Surfboard ridden: LongBoard SK8 Board
Weather and water temp: 50's
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Well I drove all the way from So Cal to Crescent City. There was little to no surf. But that being said, if you get a chance, go! What a fun mellow place. I just decided that I would not spend the money to Rent a stick and Suit. The ater is not as cold as some would think, and the weather was spectacular. Next time I will bring my own stick and surf it. I bet it can get big, but I think it is one of those cool beaches that is mostly there for fun surfing and not kamikaze acts of over machoism.
The folks up there are the nicest people. No So Cal 'tude, so don't bring one yourself. There are some great local spots up there too. But out of respect I wont say were, you will have to search on your own.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday May 28 2009 11:57:37 PM
Modified: Thursday May 28 2009 11:57:37 PM
Hits: 1469
Thursday May 28 2009 02:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Del Monte Beach, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'4
Weather and water temp: Nice Weather and 50-55 degree water
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Bumpy
Description:
My brother came in town from Indiana, and he really wanted to try and surf. I had been dry for three years due to asthma and fatness. Got out there and got caught in a rip on a short board at 280 lbs. with no lungs. Paddled for my life for almost ten minutes. Meanwhile my Bro. on the 8 ft long board soft top cruised into the shore with two small breaks. Finally I see a fat kid like up to his waist about fifty ft to my right...DUH!!! Paralell to the shore. It Kicked in about two minutes I cleared the rip, and found some beach. I bet I looked hilarious to the guys in line-up.
Overall I decided to lose weight, start skateboarding again and now I am working on getting a wetsuit and another board.
Once I made it back to shore I spent the rest of the day body boarding in the shore break. Hopefully it won't be too long until my next session. Maybe I'll catch a wave this time.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 12:47:25 AM
Modified: Friday June 19 2009 07:10:50 PM
Hits: 752
Wednesday May 27 2009 11:07:56 PM
Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9'0
Fins: None
Weather and water temp: 62F/72F
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
Memorial Day: Fun session in the River. Early morning, waist to chest high with glassy conditions and an incoming tide, but super crowded due to the holiday weekend. Bunch of groms out there having fun (remember when a good session was standing up) even making up names for waves. I caught Bill and did a Kill Bill until my single 8" custom wooden pivot fin snapped clean off at the base! My Auz EPS/Epoxy 9'0" Quad has 5 Future Slots and the wood fin broke on the rear pin that holds it in and went deep six!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDW8axlokWk
Paddle in no way why not go ... no fins! Short rides but slip sliding fun! Even catching a wave is a challenge as the board gyrates back and forth as you paddle. Once you take off its hard to keep the board moving across the face without sliding out by just using the down rail by the tail. Turning is a problem and it seemed that when I pressured right the board went left. As the waves hollowed out on the inside sand bar I found myself going backwards, tail first, almost pulled off a 360 but as soon as the white water hit the board skated out from under me (like standing on a Banana peel)! Stayed out over an hour riding without a fin to the amazement of the kids.
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday May 27 2009 11:45:22 PM
Modified: Thursday May 28 2009 06:46:03 PM
Hits: 699
Wednesday May 27 2009 05:00:00 PM
Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday May 28 2009 12:46:04 PM
Modified: Thursday May 28 2009 12:46:04 PM
Hits: 577
Wednesday May 27 2009 09:30:56 AM
Surf spot: San Onofre, United States of America
Nb waves ridden: 7 +-
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 11' Soft top
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Description:
First time to surf! Took a lesson from a great teacher. Got up first time! I am hooked. Very sore a few days later, need to get a board and a wet suit and get back out there!
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday June 10 2009 09:28:15 PM
Modified: Wednesday June 10 2009 09:28:15 PM
Hits: 656
Monday May 25 2009 09:41:22 AM
Surf spot: Cronulla, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: .30 hours
Surfboard ridden: Nomad Chris James
Fins: Propel
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Mutant
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
sport again again
drifted more to Ally reef and had some gnarly wedges
most retarted wave ive ever surfed(bodyboarded)
colsed out alot and nearly hit reef but all good
all in all good sesh
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 29 2009 09:47:46 AM
Modified: Friday May 29 2009 09:47:46 AM
Hits: 789
Saturday May 23 2009 12:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 0.2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2" TMC
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 15°C in the water
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Just let maël have some small waves (it was only 0.5 m and not very powerful).
No wetsuit, so I just caught some small waves wearing my boardshort and a Tshirt !!!
20min max within this 15°C water ;-)
Buddies:
Created: Saturday May 23 2009 07:45:34 PM
Modified: Saturday May 23 2009 07:45:34 PM
Hits: 842
Friday May 22 2009 02:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: mini-malibu
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 26 2009 12:08:49 PM
Modified: Tuesday May 26 2009 12:08:49 PM
Hits: 810
Friday May 22 2009 01:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Manorbier, UK
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: Alot
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: NSP Surf Series
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: sea:11*C air: 12*c
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
It was fun but there waves werent that good at the start but then they went good again and then they dropped.
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 22 2009 05:04:13 PM
Modified: Friday May 22 2009 05:04:13 PM
Hits: 844
Thursday May 21 2009 07:45:00 PM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Mini-Mal 6.11
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Sunny 29°C, Water 16°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
The low tide dominated the whole day but the evenig brought a couple of waves at mid to high tide. It worked for one hour until high tide prevented the waves from breaking.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:46:31 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:56:33 PM
Hits: 687
Thursday May 21 2009 01:00:00 PM
Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 22 2009 09:11:46 AM
Modified: Friday May 22 2009 09:11:46 AM
Hits: 616
Wednesday May 20 2009 12:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Biscarrosse, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Biscarosse never hat very epic surf, but this time it was even worse...
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:15:02 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:23:05 PM
Hits: 890
Tuesday May 19 2009 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: La Lette Blanche, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 3
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Mini-Mal 6,11
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Sunny 25°C, Water 16°C
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Since the waves have been to heavy for me the day before at Messanges, it slowly calmed down at St.Girons, but it was also a next to nothing session 'cause strong currents were pulling us out of the takeoff zone. It was more a paddle competition than a surf session.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 03:07:13 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:23:30 PM
Hits: 1066
Tuesday May 19 2009 01:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Cronulla, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: 30 mi hours
Surfboard ridden: Nomad Chris James
Fins: O&E Hydro
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ledgey
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
sport again nice small wedges at north got barreled once and tried airing and failed.
all in all good sesh wished we stayed longer.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:20:59 AM
Modified: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:20:59 AM
Hits: 943
Monday May 18 2009 06:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Messanges, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Weather and water temp: Thunderstorms,25°C,Water 16°C
Waves height: 3m-3.5m / 10ft-12ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Over night the waveless sea turned into a soupbowl! A warm front passed the coastline and thunderstorms all night long pushed the waves up to a dangerous level. Only 3 locals made the way out but couldn'd catch a wave.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 02:59:03 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:42:24 PM
Hits: 834
Monday May 18 2009 05:00:20 PM
Surf spot: Itamambuca, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 0.8 hours
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Cool session on Monday, with a spectacular sunset behind the mountains. Not many people out as this was a weekday and we São Paulo surfers were back to their grind.
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 22 2009 01:49:36 AM
Modified: Friday May 22 2009 01:49:36 AM
Hits: 1339
Sunday May 17 2009 10:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Vieux Boucau (north beach), France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Weather and water temp: Sunny 25°C, Water 16°C
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
After a couple of days with small swell it calmed down more and more and leaded to what I call a "flat spell" - f**k!
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:21:53 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:40:00 PM
Hits: 1176
Sunday May 17 2009 08:30:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'3"
Weather and water temp: Air: 10°C, Water: 14°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
I was not sure to have good conditions but I got them: fun 2 m waves. It was multipeak but I got really good ones with my gun. I tried to take off in the inside and it was fun to do some good bottoms with the gun.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday May 17 2009 12:01:17 PM
Modified: Sunday May 17 2009 12:01:17 PM
Hits: 627
Saturday May 16 2009 06:34:46 PM
Surf spot: Ventura Point, United States of America
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday May 16 2009 06:35:10 PM
Modified: Saturday May 16 2009 06:35:10 PM
Hits: 1144
Saturday May 16 2009 12:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Cronulla, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 8-10
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Nomad Chris James
Fins: O&E Hydro
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Close out
Description:
nice day
a surf comp was on at wanda and the surf was pumping
used my new board for the first time and loved it
got barreled a couple times and caught a shorey that put me within of my life anyways enjoyable day out
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:09:51 AM
Modified: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:09:51 AM
Hits: 826
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